80s with 35's - 37's suspension question

[Cass007]

I'm running a 1" body lift instead of the spacers. Can I unscrew the rubber puck and then flatten the metal cup and pull it out from between the coils? I'm not sure I have enough of the proper tools to get the springs out safely.

 

[baldilocks]

I'm running a 1" body lift instead of the spacers. Can I unscrew the rubber puck and then flatten the metal cup and pull it out from between the coils? I'm not sure I have enough of the proper tools to get the springs out safely.

The rubber puck is a stud with nut design, so, no you can’t. The spring has to come out and going with a smaller 2.5” bump stop spacer is my suggestion.

 

[Broski]

I've got 3" Slinkys with the Landtank castor plates... no interference at all. Maybe give LT plates a try? You can see my clearance here:

I've got 3" Slinkys with the Landtank castor plates... no interference at all. Maybe give LT plates a try? You can see my clearance here:

I'm running the same plates. ( Landtanks ) 850j's with a 1" spacer, center of hub to bottom of fender is 24" or 4" of lift at full flex tie rod just kisses the control arms.

 

[Broski]

I finally got what I thought was all the parts needed for my 3.5:F - 3"R Dobinson's install and 37s, but now having an issue that I need some direction on.

The steering arm (I think that's the proper name) is hitting the radius arms on both sides. Can anyone offer a solution? It's severely restricting any down travel and is even making contact on driveway transitions.

Pass side
View attachment 1795588

Drivers side
View attachment 1795589

At this mild angle ...
View attachment 1795590

I'm seeing it contact the radius arm fully
View attachment 1795594

Any help is appreciated.

It look's like the plates you are using only raise the front of the axle pivoting on the rear bolt. The landtank plates raise the front & lower the back at the same time giving the same castor correction with more tie rod clearance. The down side is they are a real pane to install, a lot of drilling and you need a right angle drill.

 

[chap79]

I tossed the metal cup in the trash and just reattached the rubber isolator (bump stop) back to the spacer. No need to cut or grind the bump stop cup.

 

[RFB]

I tossed the metal cup in the trash and just reattached the rubber isolator (bump stop) back to the spacer. No need to cut or grind the bump stop cup.

you have a picture of that? For us slower kids.

 

[chap79]

you have a picture of that? For us slower kids.

No Cup, and hockey pucks for spacers

 

[cybrstar]

Everyone seems to be going pretty extreme with they’re answers.

You bought a 3 inch lift kit
And you have 5 inch lift caster plates.

Seems to be the first problem I’d look into. Maybe with your lift and these caster plates rotated you pinion too far.

Buy some other caster plates and should fix the issue.

Really..... HELLFIRE KNUCKLES

LOL

 

[Cass007]

I have the WA59-514K Dobi castor plates - the Google says those are the 5* plates. Other plates may be the simplest route. I don't love the Landtank just because they require modification to the axle, but if they work that is more important.

The truck was on a lift last week to have the 2nd CAT removed to clearance my slider and since then the steering wheel is 90* off center and now there is much driveline noise and the front tires are way toed in at the bottom. Something is way not right with it. Almost feels like one of the driveshafts is out of the splines.

Having it towed to a local 4x4 shop now since the front springs will have to come off to fix the bump stops and I don't have the tools for that. I will see what their thoughts are, but nobody around my area knows Cruisers, Jeeps are everywhere.

@cybrstar - HellFire is on the list, just need to go A to B first, then can work on being one of the cool kids.

 

[cybrstar]

Hellfire knuckles are for linked suspension systems.

But go ahead and buy a pair, it will make your muffler bearings faster.

 

[AutoCraft Aus]

As @boxrocket said, I normally put a ratchet strap over the tyre to hold it down on the 4 post hoist, put a jack under the bottom of the arm to support it, then bottle jack the steering arm up a little to gain clearance without grinding anything.

The arms are forged, not cast, and will put up with a tweak to gain steering arm to control arm clearance.

If i am doing swivel hubs same time, normally to add ofdfset king bearings for neg camber and more caster, I will press them while off the vehicle as its easy to do in the press.

 

[Tools R Us]

On the front , we put put the main spacer on the axle, making taller target.

 

[inkpot]

On the front , we put put the main spacer on the axle, making taller target.

This way the upper bump stops are not so long as to rub on the springs when heavily compressed.

 

[Broski]

I have the WA59-514K Dobi castor plates - the Google says those are the 5* plates. Other plates may be the simplest route. I don't love the Landtank just because they require modification to the axle, but if they work that is more important.

The truck was on a lift last week to have the 2nd CAT removed to clearance my slider and since then the steering wheel is 90* off center and now there is much driveline noise and the front tires are way toed in at the bottom. Something is way not right with it. Almost feels like one of the driveshafts is out of the splines.

Having it towed to a local 4x4 shop now since the front springs will have to come off to fix the bump stops and I don't have the tools for that. I will see what their thoughts are, but nobody around my area knows Cruisers, Jeeps are everywhere.

@cybrstar - HellFire is on the list, just need to go A to B first, then can work on being one of the cool kids.

Dude last time I got a front end alignment my muffler started to make noise & it feels like my valves are out of time. We must have the same Mechanic

On the front , we put put the main spacer on the axle, making taller target.

Where do we get these spacers ?
Thanks

 

[Tools R Us]

...
Where do we get these spacers ?
Thanks

We made them, as needed, for builds, kinda methods. Front Bump Stop Spacers

Contact @Hitit66 has made some, not sure if he is selling them? By using this, then if/as needed shimming under the stop, can be done without removing the spring, most often don't have spring to stop interference. Also, the target reduces the chance of spring unseating.

 

[Dreamin Wheelin]

I had an over caster issue (rubbing on factory control arms) when I add 20mm spacers and caster plates and emo caster bushings to the ome comp springs (4.5”) total lift about 5.5”. I removed the caster plates and installed Slee arms. Well worth the money. I get great flex especially with the ome long shocks and a 2” shock post extenter. Go with the Slee arms. Hi-steer removes abs. Not that abs works much with 37” tires but it’s nice to have in snow just in case.

 

[Dreamin Wheelin]

For bump stops. I run Slee 2” extension plus hitit66 2” bumps in rear and 1 3/4 in the front for a total of about 4” bumps. For your set up hitit66 2” bumps will do the trick and save you money over Slee’s bump stops. PM hitit66 and ask. FYI, I installed hitit66 front bump at the bottom as shown in Tools R us post above.

 

[Cass007]

Just to follow up on things, I ended up seeking some professional help and had the truck towed to a local off-road shop. A laundry list of crazy was happening.

The wheel spacers I have (1") weren't wide enough to bottom out the attachment nuts of the stock lugs. They had loosened and everything else had began to come loose as well. They said they took off the wheel lugs with their fingers. They ground down the stock lugs a bit to get them to snug properly.

The steering bar had loosened up from the ends rubbing on the radius arms and that resulted in 6* of toe-in or camber. I knew something looked off there. I believe factory spec is around 1*, but I may be off on that.

Offset bushings were pressed into the rear mounts on the radius arms. Was told it had little effect, but every little bit helps right?

The shop wasn't comfortable bending the steering arms for liability reasons, so we went with grinding down the radius arms instead. I haven't had a chance to test the flex yet, but the shop said the front on either side will go ~4 ft in the air with the forklift before a rear comes up and the steering just makes contact there.

Took the advice of @Tools R Us and moved the bump extensions to the axle side and mounted the stock bump stops up top. No more rubbing and clanging over bumps. Super happy.

I asked them to test the stuff on the tires to the body, but I think the springs are still too new and they won't compress enough to even hit the bump stops or put the tires up to the fenders. Just want to drive it for a bit now and have some fun with it.

Almost forgot ... the u-joints quit and ended up eating the top side of the driveshaft too. Thanks to @beno for being the man and getting those parts out to me right away.

Thanks to @brian for the help getting the replacement front shaft. Always helps when a local cruiser friend has a parts truck hanging around.