Builds 80 series where to start! Again.... (1 Viewer)

[scottryana]

Well I loaded all the suspension stuff up in the truck so as soon as I get a spare minute I will run it over to Paradise Garage and talk to them like you suggested so hopefully they will do that stuff without asking too many questions haha.

s***. Yea I would probably not do that. Maybe version 2.0.

I can't wait to see this thing lowered.

 

[BlueCruiser84]

Well I loaded all the suspension stuff up in the truck so as soon as I get a spare minute I will run it over to Paradise Garage and talk to them like you suggested so hopefully they will do that stuff without asking too many questions haha.

I'd call ahead. They stay pretty busy.

 

[scottryana]

Oh I am not planning on them being able to do the work on the spot, but I just want them to be able to see what they would be getting themselves into if they did it. Lol

 

[scottryana]

You start admitting to yourself you might have a problem when it's 10pm on a Thursday night and you're in a shady part of town across the street from a strip club, using the pressure washer to clean out the carpet s*** from your project car.

 

[thatcabledude]

If I saw a guy in a shady area pressure washing his SUV's interior out, at night, I'd have to assume he just dumped a body.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah in this neighborhood I think dumping a body is probably more likely than project car.

 

[Heckraiser]

Shoulda hired some strippers to help. Or at least pose on the hood for all the pervs on MUD.

 

[scottryana]

Well s***, this project is always a step forward and 2 steps back.

I went to Paradise Garage like @BlueCruiser84 suggested and the guys were cool and are willing to work with me on the suspension. So I will drop the truck off after the 4th and get a lowered Land Cruiser back!

While going over rod and piston specs with one of the Aussie guys who is thinking about going turbo, I noticed I overlooked a big big issue on my part!

The OEM specs for piston pins is 1.0247" x 2.50" The rod spec is 1.0247" so that's good..... But the custom piston was spec'd to 1.031"! Fxxx! The Pistons and pins come as a set so if the piston is spec'd to 1.031" so should the pin, and in fact the spec chart lists it as 1.031 x 2.750" but of course it's not. It's 1.0247 x 2.50" so the piston pin bangs around inside the piston with a .0063" of clearance and max clearance is .0020"

It's been a long time since I ordered these so hopefully they work with me on fixing it. I think I could possibly get a 1.031 pin and clearance the rod end to match. But these are CP and Carillo rods, they should not need machining or having parts mismatched by more than 3x the max clearance. :-/

 

[thatcabledude]

Fxxx, fxxx, fxxx!

 

[retrofive]

Holy crap!

 

[Golgo13]

Aww, man, I'm really sorry to be reading this today. Sorry.

 

[dogfishlake]

Seriously not cool. Sorry man.

 

[scottryana]

Removed due to pissed off curse words. :-/

 

[scottryana]

Removed due to pissed off curse words. :-/

 

[scottryana]

Removed due to pissed off curse words. :-/

 

[dogfishlake]

So assuming the shipping company did this to all the parts, I'd think it's at least worth a call to an attorney to see if you have any recourse. Perhaps your good luck will begin there. Never know. You sure could use some right now.

 

[scottryana]

Ok well I talked to a machinist friend of mine about the wrist pins, rods and pistons, and that was good news at least. I should be just fine IF I get new wrist pins.

So the piston is 1.0310" - 0.0015" for oil clearance = wrist pin diameter of 1.0295"

Wrist pin of 1.0295" - 0.0015 for oil clearance to the rod = rod diameter of 1.0280"

Needed rod diameter 1.0280" - actual rod diameter of 1.0247" = 0.0033" needed to machine from the rod. So less than the thickness of a sheet of paper.

At least there is some good news. I am going to have to pay probably $200-250 for the wrist pins + the machine costs but at least it will work without issue.

 

[scottryana]

While I am still trying to figure out what to do with my head, I have been spending a lot of time going over the casting looking at runners and ports and it's amazing how much better matched the ports are when you compare them to say a stock LS engine. Like take the LS1 exhaust manifold and port compared to the 1FZ, it becomes very obvious why port matching is so important with an LS, but really I don't think I would touch the 1FZ, maybe just a very tiny bit but you wouldn't want to remove much that's for sure.


LS1 (internet photo)

1FZ my photo

 

[dogfishlake]

While I am still trying to figure out what to do with my head, I have been spending a lot of time going over the casting looking at runners and ports and it's amazing how much better matched the ports are when you compare them to say a stock LS engine. Like take the LS1 exhaust manifold and port compared to the 1FZ, it becomes very obvious why port matching is so important with an LS, but really I don't think I would touch the 1FZ, maybe just a very tiny bit but you wouldn't want to remove much that's for sure.


LS1 (internet photo)
View attachment 1285858

1FZ my photo
View attachment 1285862

I noticed that when I did my head gasket pm. I had big plans for port work and found very little to do. I bet I ground on my old 289 heads for two weeks!

 

[scottryana]

And I am not buying Headgames claim at all that valves any bigger than stock were just too big. What horse s***. They just want to sell their $6k proprietary head work.

These valves are +3mm intake and +1mm exhaust and fit with zero issues, yes the seats will need to be opened up but there is a lot of material, to work with.