In this case, I would agree since the brakes and different axle widths have already been dealt with. However, in general I think the 80 e-locked axles provides lots of value. Mine have served me well in my 80. When I get around to this on my 60, I currently plan to put in front and rear e-locked axles. Selectable lockers, high pinion, good 4 wheel disc brakes, full floating rear all for a reasonable price.
80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod
- Thread starter Godwin
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I finally completed the wiring of the e-locker in the rear and for me wiring is a challenge so this took some time. I used two blank connectors plus pigtails to connect to the locker plug and locker switch (the one that signals the locker is engaged. I scavenged the wires from an old 60 series wiring harness. Control box is from Slee and I went this route for ease of wiring.
- Thread starter
- #43
Wires were routed high, up and over a frame tube then generally followed the routing of the e-brake cable. Wires entered the cab at an unused grommeted hole where wiring for some emissions sensor once was. This spot is under the center console.
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- #44
I used the useless cubby hole for switch placement and cut a face plate from an old license plate. The vertical ridges at each end of the cubby were cut off, face plate is wedged in and held between the cubby and plastic (decomposing) dash bezel.
Switch is a Carling rotary knob from Waytek. When turned up a red light is on to indicate the switch is on and when the locker engages the green led lights.
Underdash wiring is a mess and maybe some day I'll clean it up.
Switch is a Carling rotary knob from Waytek. When turned up a red light is on to indicate the switch is on and when the locker engages the green led lights.
Underdash wiring is a mess and maybe some day I'll clean it up.
Great to hear that the brakes are improved. I'm running 4Runner front calipers with GM discs in the back (from TSM) but will be having @torfab do this exact conversion (Tundra front and FZJ80 rear, along with a rear ARB) on my 62 hopefully in the spring. Still trying to get the work order specifics nailed down since they'll be swapping in my H55F at the same time too. Gonna be a whole new feel to my old 62 and I can't wait. Then either shortly before or after I'll be swapping in an OME heavy suspension and having a new slighly raised steering linkage using 80 series parts from 4x4Labs and swapping in an 80 series box with 105 sector shaft and pitman arm. Hoping that solidifies the steering quite a bit. I'm amazed whenever I drive any newer vehicle at how soupy my 62's steering is in its stock configuration.
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Dude, you wrapped that whole run of wire with tape? They make this stuff called wire loom 
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I saw a couple zip ties it all good @Hojack what are you laughing aboutDude, you wrapped that whole run of wire with tape? They make this stuff called wire loom
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- #48
Dude, you wrapped that whole run of wire with tape? They make this stuff called wire loom
Two runs of wire and did both
. With a length of wire clamped at both ends it didn't take long and wasn't difficult.
This is a great thread Jim, thanks for sharing. As much as you use your 60 as it was built for, I look forward to your insight long term on this. It sounds like a great success already though. I am bookmarking for future reference. The 60 I have now is being built stock in the brake department and nearly finished so I hope I don't long to change it all out.
Cheers
Cheers
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- #50
I'll try to remember to come back to this as the miles add up and update with whether or not I think this has been worthwhile.
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- #51
One more photo. The rotary switch has been turned to disengage the locker and the green LED indicates the rear is still locked. While the actuator is attempting to unlock tension on the gears is not allowing disengagement but a short run in reverse of a few feet allowed the gears to disengage.
That is pretty normal on my locked 80. A bit of back and forth on the wheel in the front, and load and unload on the gears in the back. Seems normal. Not optimal, but normal.
To add to that- it is very much like locking into 4 hi at speed, the gears want to be in that floating "sweet spot" to comply
Awesome write up! For the ebrake, did you use an 80 cable? Used or new? Happen to have PN?
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- #57
Use inner axle seal on 80 series FF axle or not? Factory set up is with an axle seal in the end of the spindle to keep oil in the axle housing while the wheel bearings run in grease. Good discussions in the 80 series forum on retaining or deleting the inner axle seal. If removed and with sufficient gear oil the wheel bearings will be lubed with the oil and there is no need for grease. I went this route.
I followed the advice of the "no need for seals" experts and I did not install inner axle seals. When installing the axle shaft I used a thin coat of sealant on the gasket between the hub and axle shaft flange to prevent leakage. When I filled the rear with oil I know I had to add extra but it wasn't much. I'm more than a few thousand miles into this now without any gear oil leakage.
I followed the advice of the "no need for seals" experts and I did not install inner axle seals. When installing the axle shaft I used a thin coat of sealant on the gasket between the hub and axle shaft flange to prevent leakage. When I filled the rear with oil I know I had to add extra but it wasn't much. I'm more than a few thousand miles into this now without any gear oil leakage.
If you ever bust an axle and need to limp home by removing it, you will regret removing the seals. The seals would also offer another layer of protection against water ingress. Handy for trucks making numerous water crossings and often launching trailored boats. I'm sure you've already weighted these pros and cons.
stevebradford
In the shop
?why
Without the axle in place it won’t matter if you have the seal or not. the seal goes between the housing and axle. just stuff a rag in the hole and go. If water is getting in that far it would be going threw the wheel bearings first and would need to be addressed either way.
I’m a fan If running without, most have already failed and people are running around unaware their bearings are being even more lubricated than before.
Forget the latex it’s better with extra lube
Previously discussed at length here for further reading.
Rear axle seal question....
So I've been putting off replacing the RR axle seal on my 97 TLC for about 6 months now :meh: Since I've never done anything to the rear except drain and fills and I'm pushing half a million miles, I got parts from Beno to do both sides. So Friday night after work, I pulled into the shop and...
forum.ih8mud.com
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?why
Without the axle in place it won’t matter if you have the seal or not. the seal goes between the housing and axle. just stuff a rag in the hole and go. If water is getting in that far it would be going threw the wheel bearings first and would need to be addressed either way.
I’m a fan If running without, most have already failed and people are running around unaware their bearings are being even more lubricated than before.
Forget the latex it’s better with extra lube
Previously discussed at length here for further reading.
Rear axle seal question....
So I've been putting off replacing the RR axle seal on my 97 TLC for about 6 months now :meh: Since I've never done anything to the rear except drain and fills and I'm pushing half a million miles, I got parts from Beno to do both sides. So Friday night after work, I pulled into the shop and...
"Why?" If you remove the axle and are running diff oil in your bearings they will be starved for oil and fail in a few miles. If you have grease packed in your bearings you can run much, much further, depending on water and ambient heat.
Read the 80's thread and am not remotely convinced about removing the inner seal. Yes, gear lube is fine for the bearings but the back seal on the hub is not designed to hold in oil. It's only a water seal to keep water out of the grease. When it fails, gear oil will ruin the drum shoes and compromise the disk brake as well.
Recipe for problems in extreme situations. Toyota's engineers are almost always right. The only times I find myself disagreeing with them is when the intended use varies. They design for an all around vehicle and we often build our trucks to specialize.
Usually, if I've deviated from the FSM or pulled a short cut it comes back to bite me and I have to repair the part and do it right the second time.
When seals fail early its often because they've been roughed up during assembly or are not centered (front axle from incorrect shins, rear axle loose hub bearings). Inserting the axles is awkward at best and it's very easy to let the shaft slide on the seal or to unintentionally use it as a fulcrum to tip the end up to stick the diff carrier.
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