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If you bust an axle just remove the remains and re-install the other flange end. There no more oil loss
80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Godwin
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- Joined
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It’s not unsupported, it’s attached to the flange. Or it could just be chopped off.
Or you could do what I do and keep a front hub blank cap from a 90’s IFS 2wd Toyota, or bolt on a spare Aisin hub, or just carry a set of spare rear shafts. I do all three.
Or you could do what I do and keep a front hub blank cap from a 90’s IFS 2wd Toyota, or bolt on a spare Aisin hub, or just carry a set of spare rear shafts. I do all three.
I didn't think of the IFS 2WD hub cover ideas as a spare cap. I usually carry the spare front hub and shafts like you do.
pandasfj
SILVER Star
@Randy88FJ62 , how did your install go? Did the 13WL caliper work with the 70 series 16" wheel?
Everything bolted up just fine. I need to order and install stainless brake lines that run the correct way. The soft lines I have on there now aren't ideal.
I also miss my OEM backing plates.
Regarding fitment I have no issues with 16" wheels and the calipers but I have Interco Bird Dog Wheels which push the offset so that my tires sit outboard away from the truck more. Others are fitting 16"s just fine.
@cruisermatt
Thanks for the 2WD IFS front hub cap cover idea. I grabbed one at the parts yard last month and it will stay in the cruiser just in case. I run with a lot of FZJ80's in the club.
It's good to know that manual hubs can work too.
I also miss my OEM backing plates.
Regarding fitment I have no issues with 16" wheels and the calipers but I have Interco Bird Dog Wheels which push the offset so that my tires sit outboard away from the truck more. Others are fitting 16"s just fine.
@cruisermatt
Thanks for the 2WD IFS front hub cap cover idea. I grabbed one at the parts yard last month and it will stay in the cruiser just in case. I run with a lot of FZJ80's in the club.
It's good to know that manual hubs can work too.
pandasfj
SILVER Star
So in your opinion was it worth doing the mod and is the braking much better?
I think I'll start getting the hubs out of storage and start prepping them up. Thanks for the response.
I think I'll start getting the hubs out of storage and start prepping them up. Thanks for the response.
My brake pedal feel is still blah. It's been sitting since I got a 2008 4Runner 4.7L V8 with 485,000 mi on it. I've been working on that a lot.
The brakes need to be bled better before I could comment further.
The brakes need to be bled better before I could comment further.
- Thread starter
- #70
Yes. The braking is substantially improved and well controlled. I did replace all the major components which are listed earlier in this thread. I've put probably 10k +/- miles on this setup thus far.
I also miss the brake backing plates but haven't noticed an issue without them and I've driven in deep water, mud, and sandy conditions.
- Thread starter
- #71
Over the past week I've spent some quality time with the locker actuator. Last October I finished up most of this swap in time to attend the 2019 SSS Events/Trails - Southern (tip) Swine Soirée - SSS 2019 Oct 25-27. On the Saturday of the event we did a few river crossings, about 13 or so, with water levels often up to the bottom of the doors. One item I did not have time to complete was wiring the locker. No big deal, didn't need it on the roads or trails during the SSS. But I also forgot that the breather tube for the actuator was open.
When I finally wired the locker it worked and at the time I hooked up the breather tube. Since the locker worked I didn't crack open the actuator to check for inner gunk. A few weeks ago I tested it and it would not operate. Last week I finally dug into it.
Kinda nasty and one of the magnets was loose.
It cleaned up well and I reassembled and check it and it works but I now have no voltage from the switch to the locker so I'll be looking into that.
When I finally wired the locker it worked and at the time I hooked up the breather tube. Since the locker worked I didn't crack open the actuator to check for inner gunk. A few weeks ago I tested it and it would not operate. Last week I finally dug into it.
Kinda nasty and one of the magnets was loose.
It cleaned up well and I reassembled and check it and it works but I now have no voltage from the switch to the locker so I'll be looking into that.
- Thread starter
- #72
I have a year and about 25k miles on this setup and what I like most about it is the dramatically improved braking with 4 wheel discs. The front rotors developed high spots but pulling rotors is super easy. Remove 6 lug nuts, the front wheel, 2 caliper bolts and the rotor slides off. I have a second essentially stock FJ60 for comparison and when I drive that I have to remember that the brakes, while good, are not the same.
- Thread starter
- #73
More on the rear locker actuator. After cleaning it and reinstalling it would not work. Problem could be with the locker actuator, the wiring, the Slee black box, or the the switch. I decided to purchase a new actuator and once plugged in the rear locker was working.
This lasted for several weeks when the fuse for the locker circuit blew. Installed a new fuse and it blew. I disconnected everything on this circuit and by reinstalling isolated the issue to something with the locker. I checked the wiring and found no worn wires so that (in my mind) pointed to the Slee box or switch. I decided to rewire the system with relays and that necessitated a new on-off-on switch. Rewired with a pair of relays and new switch and the fuse still blew. I carefully checked the wiring and found a minuscule exposed spot on a wiring tab at the locker actuator. I patched the spot with success.
Short answer the Slee box is good, the on-off switch that I replaced is good, but I also understand this setup better.
This lasted for several weeks when the fuse for the locker circuit blew. Installed a new fuse and it blew. I disconnected everything on this circuit and by reinstalling isolated the issue to something with the locker. I checked the wiring and found no worn wires so that (in my mind) pointed to the Slee box or switch. I decided to rewire the system with relays and that necessitated a new on-off-on switch. Rewired with a pair of relays and new switch and the fuse still blew. I carefully checked the wiring and found a minuscule exposed spot on a wiring tab at the locker actuator. I patched the spot with success.
Short answer the Slee box is good, the on-off switch that I replaced is good, but I also understand this setup better.
- Thread starter
- #74
With the rewiring I cut off the rear of the useless cubby hole in the dash and installed the relays in that. I reused the license plate face plate for mounting the switch. I like the 3 position switch better than the 2 position switch. Lock-neutral-unlock. In the central position no voltage is running to the locker actuator.
What switch is that?
- Thread starter
- #76
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Just checking in ....since I saw some new traffic on this thread. Has the parking brake been functioning well too, over the course of time?
The custom lettering on the switch is classicSometimes whatever works is the #$^%!
80 parking brakes are not great
yeah....thats one of my delima's in looking for solutions, all though just looking around for what feedback I see.
My understanding is that they're literally strictly a parking brake, and not in any way an emergency brake. Are they not even sufficient as a parking brake? That was one of the reasons I've been wanting to go to an FZJ80 rear end. The locker and having discs (Toyota discs at that) and having a functional parking brake again.
