80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod (2 Viewers)

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Been having a lot of problems with the 13WE calipers and today I swapped them out for 13WL calipers. I used the Power Stop kit because it was about 1/2 the cost of new OEM calipers, rotors, and brake pads. Plenty of clearance with the old 13WE calipers and 16" 70 series wheels. After pulling the old calipers I found one seized piston on each. Braking had been with bad pulsing and vibration. That's now gone.

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Power Stop kit came with new calipers, rotors, and pads. Bolted right up.

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I had read somewhere that the 13WLs would work with 16" wheels with no interference and that's what I found. No issues once I had the 70 series wheels bolted up.

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Damn, looks almost like they were designed to work together. I dig it.
 
Whats the difference between those bolts and the studs that cost 4 x as much?

Are you asking what the difference between a bolt and a stud is?
a bolt is a single fastener with integrated head.
a stud, nut and washer are three separate fasteners working together.
There are many reasons to choose one over another for an application
 
Are you asking what the difference between a bolt and a stud is?
a bolt is a single fastener with integrated head.
a stud, nut and washer are three separate fasteners working together.
There are many reasons to choose one over another for an application
No - I am asking the difference in strength. Th studs cost 4x more than the bolts you used. Are the studs that much better is my question?
 
I can't answer that with any sort of empirical data - however they do have a full shank length through the spindle flange and bracket thickness, and the added benefit of ease of alignment.

As I posted earlier I installed the bolts on my own FJ62 to test.

Have plenty of both in stock if you would like to order either.
 
I can't answer that with any sort of empirical data - however they do have a full shank length through the spindle flange and bracket thickness, and the added benefit of ease of alignment.

As I posted earlier I installed the bolts on my own FJ62 to test.

Have plenty of both in stock if you would like to order either.
When you mentioned the studs were better in another post, I thought I would ask. I guess i will stick with the bolts for now.
 
I thought I had saved what I used last time but I guess not. I was mistaken earlier, 100 hub stud has much too short of a shoulder for the spindle and bracket thickness.

We have one of these jobs coming through the service bay here in a few weeks so here is what I ordered to use for spindle mounting hardware - The stud is a third member mounting stud, high tensile strength, pre-applied thread locker, the nut and washer are for 200 series third member (same thread size as 60 but less cost). The shoulder length on the stud should be just right, the washer is extra thick though in case it is a touch too long.


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How much do you sell these studs, washers and nuts for?
 
If memory serves, bolts engage more thread in the knuckle casting assuming the correct length. Studs will snug up leaving a few knuckle-side threads unused. I like the stud idea for temporary install assist but I'd pass on using these studs in this location for a permanent install.
 
If memory serves, bolts engage more thread in the knuckle casting assuming the correct length. Studs will snug up leaving a few knuckle-side threads unused. I like the stud idea for temporary install assist but I'd pass on using these studs in this location for a permanent install.
That’s a good point, I just measured and it’s 10mm vs 15mm.
Could install the studs long side in.
 
That’s a good point, I just measured and it’s 10mm vs 15mm.
Could install the studs long side in.
Yea
If memory serves, bolts engage more thread in the knuckle casting assuming the correct length. Studs will snug up leaving a few knuckle-side threads unused. I like the stud idea for temporary install assist but I'd pass on using these studs in this location for a permanent install.
I was a little confused about that. I thought studs were better than bolts.
 
I'm about to buy these lockers for the 80 axles I'm putting under my 60. They have the option of the pull T handles and I can't say whether I prefer those or the levers. I like the idea of mounting them on the dash which saves space in the center console area. Any thoughts?

 
I'm about to buy these lockers for the 80 axles I'm putting under my 60. They have the option of the pull T handles and I can't say whether I prefer those or the levers. I like the idea of mounting them on the dash which saves space in the center console area. Any thoughts?

From the looks of it they're only compatible with the 80 series front diff, and not the rear.

Kind of a bummer too because I'd love to be able to go mechanical when I (eventually, God only knows when) swap in an FZJ80 locked rear axle.
 
Yea

I was a little confused about that. I thought studs were better than bolts.
That's like saying shorts are better than trousers. They're different parts used for different reasons.
 
That's like saying shorts are better than trousers. They're different parts used for different reasons.
Yea,
That’s a real technical evaluation of the situation.
 
I didn't know you wanted technical:

Studs and bolts are made from the same strength material for given clamp load designs. Studs allow for easier installation of components since they provide something to hang parts on, which bolts can't do, not being there until after installation. Differential carriers are a good example of this. If the stud is unthreaded for a portion of its diameter, the increased shank diameter adds to the theoretical shear capacity, in the area of a joint, such as the knuckle housing to steering arm joint. Theoretically, in a threaded casting, a stud, not requiring removal and installation, would tend to wear the internal threads less, since it's only installed and stretches the threads once. In practice, this is less than a certainty.

HTH
 
I didn't know you wanted technical:

Studs and bolts are made from the same strength material for given clamp load designs. Studs allow for easier installation of components since they provide something to hang parts on, which bolts can't do, not being there until after installation. Differential carriers are a good example of this. If the stud is unthreaded for a portion of its diameter, the increased shank diameter adds to the theoretical shear capacity, in the area of a joint, such as the knuckle housing to steering arm joint. Theoretically, in a threaded casting, a stud, not requiring removal and installation, would tend to wear the internal threads less, since it's only installed and stretches the threads once. In practice, this is less than a certainty.

HTH
Thanks for putting it succinctly.
 
I'm about to buy these lockers for the 80 axles I'm putting under my 60. They have the option of the pull T handles and I can't say whether I prefer those or the levers. I like the idea of mounting them on the dash which saves space in the center console area. Any thoughts?

what does this have to do with this thread?
 

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