80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod (2 Viewers)

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I thought I had saved what I used last time but I guess not. I was mistaken earlier, 100 hub stud has much too short of a shoulder for the spindle and bracket thickness.

We have one of these jobs coming through the service bay here in a few weeks so here is what I ordered to use for spindle mounting hardware - The stud is a third member mounting stud, high tensile strength, pre-applied thread locker, the nut and washer are for 200 series third member (same thread size as 60 but less cost). The shoulder length on the stud should be just right, the washer is extra thick though in case it is a touch too long.


1B6A4E37-8522-45E8-AFEB-EB1461194A93.jpeg

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I thought I had saved what I used last time but I guess not. I was mistaken earlier, 100 hub stud has much too short of a shoulder for the spindle and bracket thickness.

We have one of these jobs coming through the service bay here in a few weeks so here is what I ordered to use for spindle mounting hardware - The stud is a third member mounting stud, high tensile strength, pre-applied thread locker, the nut and washer are for 200 series third member (same thread size as 60 but less cost). The shoulder length on the stud should be just right, the washer is extra thick though in case it is a touch too long.


View attachment 3436601
View attachment 3436600

Post up how this works out. Using studs for mounting the spindle, caliper bracket, etc. would sure make this easier.
 
Mocked up with knuckle, spindle, FROR bracket, looks great.

76854820-167B-456F-BDAB-933A505E6610.jpeg
 
Budget-minded alternative for the spindle hardware... 91651-61040 is a 40mm-long high-tensile bolt, Toyota Msrp of about .35 cents each. I keep a ton of these on hand for all the splitcase rebuilds.

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@cruisermatt you have an extra ring tacked on there. What is the purpose for that? Take up extra space of the longer studs?
That’s FROR’s bracket, not mine. I think it is to get the caliper offset correct. Not how I would do it but it works fine. I have it on backwards in that pic.

The brackets I used to make I welded spacers to the bracket at the caliper bolts and tapped them all the way thru to have more thread engagement. Should be some pics in my build thread.
 
I had nuts welded on to increase thread engagement. The ears on the knuckles are thick and I did not trust the reduced thread engagement of the FROR brackets.

View attachment 3441863
Which caliper bolts are you using? I’m looking to us grade 8 with nuts too. I think you are right about having more thread engagement.
 
I thought the spacer ring was suppose to go on the side facing the spindle? What brakes you using?

As I already wrote two post above, I don’t know, I was just checking the length of those studs
 
Which caliper bolts are you using? I’m looking to us grade 8 with nuts too. I think you are right about having more thread engagement.

Initially I used, and still am, flanged bolts I bought from McMaster Carr (I'd have to look up the part number). Last year I lost one and replaced it with a front FZJ80 caliper bolt (9010112144) and washer (9020112452). At some point I'll swap out the remaining 3 McMaster Carr bolts for OEM.
 
Budget-minded alternative for the spindle hardware... 91651-61040 is a 40mm-long high-tensile bolt, Toyota Msrp of about .35 cents each. I keep a ton of these on hand for all the splitcase rebuilds.

View attachment 3441721
What grade are these bolts Vs. the studs?
 
What grade are these bolts Vs. the studs?
They have a #8 mark head so they are high-strength chassis/engine bolts. Most Toyota M10/M12 is
 
They have a #8 mark head so they are high-strength chassis/engine bolts. Most Toyota M10/M12 is
I can't remember where I might've heard it, but I'm under the impression that the "8" stamp denotes that the bolts are basically a metric grade 8.8

Is that the case or am I mistaken?
 
I can't remember where I might've heard it, but I'm under the impression that the "8" stamp denotes that the bolts are basically a metric grade 8.8

Is that the case or am I mistaken?
No.

Toyota (as do all OEM’s) has their own scale of hardware strength, actual yield data is obviously propriety but you can make some judgements pretty easily based on other marked bolts around the rest of the vehicle, 80-Series brake rotor bolts are an 11, for example.

The original spindle bolts have a #7 mark head. So the ones I posted would be stronger.

Chart from the FSM (this is in everyone’s FSM)

223DA73D-5D48-4112-A7A2-784604D0E7F2.jpeg
 
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No.

Toyota (as do all OEM’s) has their own scale of hardware strength, actual yield data is obviously propriety but you can make some judgements pretty easily based on other marked bolts around the rest of the vehicle, 80-Series brake rotor bolts are an 11, for example.

The original spindle bolts have a #7 mark head. So the ones I posted would be stronger.

Chart from the FSM (this is in everyone’s FSM)

View attachment 3448780
Oh nice. I had never bothered to look up that chart in my FSM since I always made sure I was using OEM fasteners for any load bearing component. Good to have that for a resource whenever alternate hardware is needed/wanted.

Learned something new today.
 
Updated my truck this afternoon with the 91651-61040 bolts (along with new rotors and calipers).

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Been having a lot of problems with the 13WE calipers and today I swapped them out for 13WL calipers. I used the Power Stop kit because it was about 1/2 the cost of new OEM calipers, rotors, and brake pads. Plenty of clearance with the old 13WE calipers and 16" 70 series wheels. After pulling the old calipers I found one seized piston on each. Braking had been with bad pulsing and vibration. That's now gone.

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Power Stop kit came with new calipers, rotors, and pads. Bolted right up.

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I had read somewhere that the 13WLs would work with 16" wheels with no interference and that's what I found. No issues once I had the 70 series wheels bolted up.

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