80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod

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Godwin said:
Thursday afternoon, pulling up to the house, my brakes became very heavy. Dead brake booster. I've lost track of how many boosters I've swapped out over the past 20 years. The current one was an OEM 60 series that may have come from a '88 FJ62. Needing to fix this as quick as possible I ordered a FZJ80 booster from Rockauto, went with the Cardone rebuilt unit. Swapped in today and good to have easy to stomp brake pedal once again. Driving an overweight FJ60 with no booster is not fun. Push rod from booster to MC was preset at the factory. I checked it with booster rod setting tool and it was spot on.

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After driving with the Cardone brake booster for about 3 weeks I'm going to give it a :meh:+ rating. Boost is good at the top of the brake pedal but is reduced at the bottom of pedal, that is, brake effort increases as braking effort increases. Not to the point of providing no boost but boost effort is noticeable reduced. In a pinch, the Cardone will work, but any better alternative will be a good OEM FJ6x, 4Runner, or 80 series.
 
I rebuilt the knuckles a year ago using all new OEM fasteners. Today I needed to make a small adjustment to the passenger side wheel bearings and popping out the year-old cone washers was so smooth. Two sharp hits with a hammer and brass drift and each one released cleanly.

Replacing old, banged on knuckle bolts, studs, nuts, etc. with new is well worth it.

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Godwin said:
After driving with the Cardone brake booster for about 3 weeks I'm going to give it a :meh:+ rating. Boost is good at the top of the brake pedal but is reduced at the bottom of pedal, that is, brake effort increases as braking effort increases. Not to the point of providing no boost but boost effort is noticeable reduced. In a pinch, the Cardone will work, but any better alternative will be a good OEM FJ6x, 4Runner, or 80 series.
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This is NOT the dual diaphragm booster, correct?

If/when my factory booster eventually goes out, I plan on replacing with the dual diaphragm.
 
4runner2FJ60 said:
McMaster-Carr. $4.12 ea.... 3/8 BSPT Item#4860K133
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Learned this from @mattressking today

It is 3/8-19 tap, so yes. I have one at home - I just had to rattle my brain if it’s 3/8 which @Godwin confirmed.

Toyota alternative 3/8-19 with Allen head plug is:

90344-52003

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Godwin said:
Learned this from @mattressking today

It is 3/8-19 tap, so yes. I have one at home - I just had to rattle my brain if it’s 3/8 which @Godwin confirmed.

Toyota alternative 3/8-19 with Allen head plug is:

90344-52003

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Correct part no. 90344-53011

 
2 1/2 months with the Cardone brake booster and I yanked it today and installed an OEM FZJ80 series booster. I was having some flaky vacuum leak issues that the Cardone may have been a source, but also I simply was not enthused with the boost it provided. I would also occasionally experience low boost, accompanied with low vacuum, at slow speeds thus needing to mash the pedal harder. OEM went in much smoother than the Cardone. Stud alignment is perfect with the OEM, not so with Cardone. I did need to adjust the booster push rod slightly.

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Afternoon wrenching was the installation of a 4Plusproducts front u-bolt flip kit. Very nice, heavy duty, well thought-out, and manufactured product. @4runner2FJ60 had this in Classifieds and I snatched it up.

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Checking some stuff today and noticed that one of the dowels on the rear FF hub had backed out. That could explain why there was minor oil seepage. Tapped it back in and will keep an eye on it. I don't recall reading in the 80 series forum of this happening, mainly that the dowels can snap under too much force. Doubt my high mileage 2F can generate too much force.

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Rear 80 series e-locker quit working recently and I took a look at it yesterday. The actuator plug had separated from the harness. The plug has been damaged in the past from catching on limb or something and being pulled apart, breaking the clips that hold the male and female portions together. I cleaned the plugs with electrical contact cleaner, pushed them together, and placed a section of heat shrink on the plugs. Heat shrink should keep the plugs together and offer some environmental protection.

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Great info and write up on everything needed. Following many different options explained here.
Getting a SOA 62 back to "stock" with SUA, front 4r brake mod and rear 80 series axle on parabolic leafs. Using U-Bolt Eliminator Perch kit from Ruff Stuff (U-Bolt Eliminator Perch Kit 2.75"-3.00" Axle Tube - https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/r2667.html), think the 2.75''-3'' axle tube option is enough for the front stock FJ62 axle (to not reuse the OEM brackets) and the rear 80 series Axle?.
Also curious, didn't see on thread, what are We doing on rear sway bar?

Thank you all for the help! Gathering all the parts and info before I tackle it all.
 
Mdej3 said:
Great info and write up on everything needed. Following many different options explained here.
Getting a SOA 62 back to "stock" with SUA, front 4r brake mod and rear 80 series axle on parabolic leafs. Using U-Bolt Eliminator Perch kit from Ruff Stuff (U-Bolt Eliminator Perch Kit 2.75"-3.00" Axle Tube - https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/r2667.html), think the 2.75''-3'' axle tube option is enough for the front stock FJ62 axle (to not reuse the OEM brackets) and the rear 80 series Axle?.
Also curious, didn't see on thread, what are We doing on rear sway bar?

Thank you all for the help! Gathering all the parts and info before I tackle it all.
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I'm not running a rear sway bar, never had one installed.

If you'll be installing an unlocked 80 series axle you shouldn't have any issue with a u-bolt eliminator kit. If using an OEM e-locked 80 axle you'll have interference issues with the locker actuator and the shock.
 
Godwin said:
I'm not running a rear sway bar, never had one installed.

If you'll be installing an unlocked 80 series axle you shouldn't have any issue with a u-bolt eliminator kit. If using an OEM e-locked 80 axle you'll have interference issues with the locker actuator and the shock.
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Thank you sir.
This 62 will be a Sunday Cruiser so no off roading but will like to have sways bars on her for better handling, specially after the LS1 and H55.
Appreciate the locked axle situation, Axles that I got are locked but I can sell them and buy an unlocked one pretty easy. The 62 came with ARB lockers so that will be an easy item to tackle.
 
Mdej3 said:
Thank you sir.
This 62 will be a Sunday Cruiser so no off roading but will like to have sways bars on her for better handling, specially after the LS1 and H55.
Appreciate the locked axle situation, Axles that I got are locked but I can sell them and buy an unlocked one pretty easy. The 62 came with ARB lockers so that will be an easy item to tackle.
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I've put 4Plus u-bolt flip kits on the 60 in this thread and 3 corners fit fine, but the rear passenger side with the locker actuator is the problem area. Moving the upper shock mount may work, haven't gotten that deep into it yet.

You may be able to mount a rear sway bar by adding sway bar mounts to the 80 axle.
 
Mdej3 said:
Thank you sir.
This 62 will be a Sunday Cruiser so no off roading but will like to have sways bars on her for better handling, specially after the LS1 and H55.
Appreciate the locked axle situation, Axles that I got are locked but I can sell them and buy an unlocked one pretty easy. The 62 came with ARB lockers so that will be an easy item to tackle.
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I am also looking to add a swaybar to my 80 rear swap, couldn’t get the 62 mounts or bar to fit in a way I liked.

@TRAIL TAILOR I think got a TK1 racing off-road swaybar to fit
 
BurntToast said:
I am also looking to add a swaybar to my 80 rear swap, couldn’t get the 62 mounts or bar to fit in a way I liked.

@TRAIL TAILOR I think got a TK1 racing off-road swaybar to fit
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Zero personal experience, but had this saved regarding sway bars on 80 rears. This is how Tor set up one he built.

Post # 205 in case that link doesn't go there.
 
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