I think you’re right on with your schedule, plugs I’d do them do at 100,000 -120,000 and brake fluid depends on where you live if you’re living in Vegas and it’s real dry it’s not gonna pick up the moisture so you can probably go longer minimum where I live in Florida you do it every 30,000 miles or two years, very humid.
$80/liter transfer case oil
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I think you’re right on with your schedule, plugs I’d do them do at 100,000 -120,000 and brake fluid depends on where you live if you’re living in Vegas and it’s real dry it’s not gonna pick up the moisture so you can probably go longer minimum where I live in Florida you do it every 30,000 miles or two years, very humid.
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Toyota says to do the transfer case and diffs much more frequently if you tow.
They also say you never have to change it if you don’t tow or go off road
Where did you come up with the 140 as the should? I have always done 90W and Toyta is recommending 75-85W
SWUtah- do you know if Diffs are normally refilled with Dino or Synth gear fluid? In other words is the towing and offorad recommendation based on Dino?
Personally I don’t know but over the years I’ve been led to believe that it’s all should be synthetic in the driveline
Your factory spec doesn't carry over for aftermarket lockers. Providers/Installers of aftermarket lockers typically call for full SYN 85/140. ARB & TJM call for the 85/ 140, not sure about Eaton Harrop/ E-Locker but prob similar. Maybe Zuk (@gearinstalls.com ) or Ward Harris will chime in.
Your use and climate come into play as far as viscosity selection but a high quality 85W/140 works best.
TJM
I do know from previous LX’s and Land Cruisers that the differential oil gets dirty a lot quicker then the transfer case transfer case looks like new at 60,000 miles where the differentials look dirty at least the first time at 30,000 the Then looks good for 40 or 50,000 miles
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Personally I’d wonder why they want the thicker stuff. Arguably the more important job of a diff lube is to keep the gears and bearings happy.. and arb/whoever doesn’t really have any idea what you’d be using for those parts or what those requirements are.
Maybe they assume you’ll be abusing it more at low speeds necessitating a thicker film?
Maybe they assume you’ll be abusing it more at low speeds necessitating a thicker film?
For anyone stepping in here at page 4, this response is related to aftermarket Locked Diffs^
Heavier weight lube protects ring & pinion against shock load, shear, foaming and especially, heat; but it can also not lubricate carrier bearings as well as thinner oil. Boils down to how you use your locker equipped truck; if its occasional off road use in cool climates 90w is probably fine as suggested by ARB ( and supported by @Romer's anecdotal evidence). If you tow, or have duty use/drive a heavy truck: armor, bumpers,drawers, rooftop tent and spend time wheeling your vehicle, especially in warm climates heavier wt is recommended. Either way GL5 classification prob should be first priority, then wt.
Heavier weight lube protects ring & pinion against shock load, shear, foaming and especially, heat; but it can also not lubricate carrier bearings as well as thinner oil. Boils down to how you use your locker equipped truck; if its occasional off road use in cool climates 90w is probably fine as suggested by ARB ( and supported by @Romer's anecdotal evidence). If you tow, or have duty use/drive a heavy truck: armor, bumpers,drawers, rooftop tent and spend time wheeling your vehicle, especially in warm climates heavier wt is recommended. Either way GL5 classification prob should be first priority, then wt.
I called two local dealers to see if they have the fluid.
One said they use Mobil 1
The other said the use Synchro Shift 2 which is a GL-4 BG Syncro Shift® II | BG Products, Inc.
Both said the have never heard of the LF fluid
One said they use Mobil 1
The other said the use Synchro Shift 2 which is a GL-4 BG Syncro Shift® II | BG Products, Inc.
Both said the have never heard of the LF fluid
I ordered 2 liters of the Ravenol as its an equivalent fluid and MUCH cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QPCL7ZE/?tag=ihco-20
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QPCL7ZE/?tag=ihco-20
FWIW the people I know who wheel the hardest (generally buggies of some sort or people who spend a lot time in mud/water) just throw WalMart Super Tech 85W-140 gear oil in their ARB locked diffs. It's API GL5 and it's cheap enough they just change it once or twice a year depending on use, $13.87/gallon. These vehicles don't see a ton of road miles though as they are largely off road toys, maybe 5k road miles a year. That said, I used Mobil1 in my last vehicle with ARBs.
Curious how you will get it into the transfer. Can it be poured in from under there? Or using one of those little screw-on jug pumps?
This is a nice little kit of all the gaskets you need for both axles and the transfer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017V4BAXI?tag=ihco-20
i have the gaskets and I use a hand pump to get the oil into the fill hole. Looks like you have to take some stuff off to get to drain hole. I skipped the instruction to put the drain plug back in and reinstall the stuff in the attachements
I went lazy. Seemed like alot of steps after I removed my skid plate to get to the drain hole. I used a brake bleeder through the fill hole and sucked all the fluid out 
I know it doesnt get it all out and not the crap that might be at the bottom. I did get 1.5 qts out so close to all if nothing else. Next time I will tear it down.
I must say I was pleasantly surprised with the Ravenol. I bought a pump, but didnt use it. I didnt use the syringes I bought either. The Ravenol has a spout that comes out the top and makes it easy to get in the hole and fill it
I know it doesnt get it all out and not the crap that might be at the bottom. I did get 1.5 qts out so close to all if nothing else. Next time I will tear it down.
I must say I was pleasantly surprised with the Ravenol. I bought a pump, but didnt use it. I didnt use the syringes I bought either. The Ravenol has a spout that comes out the top and makes it easy to get in the hole and fill it