- Thread starter
- #221
The heater core was flushed out nice and clean. There really wasn’t any debris inside, so I’m convinced the issue was with the heater valve. Trying to blow air through the old one is nearly impossible!
Builds 78 Mustard Yellow FJ40 #Tiger40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter greenEFSI
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #222
Hang tight on ordering the hose clamps from Amazon. The only size that fit these hoses was very tight. I’m not sure if there will be any problems with other sizes until I’m done.
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- #223
The lower engine shield and fan shroud were cleaned, hit with rust reformer & black steelit.
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- #224
Then I moved onto cleaning the radiator mount and hit with rust reformer. Before painting with steelit, I had to notch the mount and fan shroud just a bit to accept the mishimoto radiator.
Now that’s all done I can move onto swapping out the clamps on all the cooling hoses and fuel lines.
Now that’s all done I can move onto swapping out the clamps on all the cooling hoses and fuel lines.
- Thread starter
- #225
I say it all the time, but steelit lays out so nice! I was going to use it on the radiator but it’s super thick, and I think it will interfere with heat dissipation. So I ordered up a couple cans of Eastwood radiator black. Once they come in I can spray the radiator and start getting it put back together.
I’m still working on the clamps… had to order another assortment of sizes and hope it has what I need. The clamps in the photo were pretty hard to slip on the hose and onto the pipes, but I got them on after a couple hours lol.
I’m still working on the clamps… had to order another assortment of sizes and hope it has what I need. The clamps in the photo were pretty hard to slip on the hose and onto the pipes, but I got them on after a couple hours lol.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
Looks great. Consistent clamps are a great touch.
- Thread starter
- #227
So the amazon clamps were a total fail because there aren't enough proper sized clamps for the whole engine bay. I went ahead and ordered up a whole bunch of replacement clamps from Toyota. The city racer stainless clamps look good, but they have the bolt head/flat combo just like these amazon clamps do. If I'm spending $80 on clamps I want a true oem replacement with a bolt head/phillips combo...
In the mean time, I can get some of these parts swapped out. Thermostat gasket, dome light, front bezel bolts with plastic washers & coolant union pipe.
In the mean time, I can get some of these parts swapped out. Thermostat gasket, dome light, front bezel bolts with plastic washers & coolant union pipe.
OlYellr
SILVER Star
I got the Racer clamps for mine - loved the consistent look etc and over all worked well. Having said that I would do OEM if this ever came up again. The metal is "softer" with the Racer clamps. I used OEM on the heater hoses when I refreshed those components inside.
I didn't know how to say so elegantly, until now, after others saying "you need to do this not that" earlier in the thread.
My grandma told me "Tact is the agility to tell someone they have an open mind, when really they have a hole in their head." I struggle with that sometimes.
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- #229
Thanks for the input! I was really on the fence with those stainless clamps when I gave up on these but rust isnt a huge issue here in CA.
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- #230
Drove up to Bear Mountain not expecting much, because until now it was all man-made snow, but we were lucky enough to get fresh snow while we were there!
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- #231
Just got home from our Big Bear trip and got some goods in the mail!
These clamps should service all Small/large radiator hoses, heater hoses, oil cooler & fuel lines. I purchased extra quantities of the heater hose and fuel line clamps just in case… The single large clamp is for the rubber air intake hose.
These clamps should service all Small/large radiator hoses, heater hoses, oil cooler & fuel lines. I purchased extra quantities of the heater hose and fuel line clamps just in case… The single large clamp is for the rubber air intake hose.
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- #232
I got two coats of Eastwood radiator black on the front of the radiator. Going to let it flash off until tomorrow before doing the other side.
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- #233
I couldn’t wait to try the new clamps on and make sure I didn’t need to order anything else. This makes the engine bay look so much better!
MAR FJ40
SILVER Star
Love the OEM clamps! Where did you source them?
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Good choice going with OEM clamps.....over time working on various trucks I've found the stainless hose clamps are unable to maintain their shape and deform/break/strip after heat cycling....oem steel is far better.
Any reason you went aluminum instead of oem radiator?
Any reason you went aluminum instead of oem radiator?
I may be crazy, but it looks like you're sending ported vacuum to vent your distributor cap via the black vacuum hose. I have a big cap distributor from an FJ60 on my 2F, I have the larger hose connected to a filter (similar to what you have in post #225) and the smaller hose to the port on top of the air filter housing (yours is capped in one of your photos in post #225).
Thinking this would cause you to lose vacuum under throttle, but I'm sure some of the others can chime in to confirm.
- Thread starter
- #237
Being in SoCal near DTLA, the stop & go traffic gets pretty bad and I figured the aluminum rad would be the better option. It looks pretty sweet all blacked out. I just finished the other side and will post up pics tomorrow.
I really don’t know, I got the FJ40 desmogged and the vacuum lines haven’t been changed by me. I’ll have to dig into it a little further, thank you for the input!
- Thread starter
- #238
77' FJ40 - 2F Desmog - Correct vacuum routing
To the Desmog guru's, is this the correct vacuum routing for a desmogged 1977 FJ40? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
forum.ih8mud.com
This post shows it going directly to the carb, but it looks like I had my 5 & 13 mixed up after the carb rebuild. I just swapped them over and should be good to go!
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Good deal, I know '78s and my non-original '75 are different, but here is how I have the cap vented. Filtered air comes in from the red filter ('75s didn't have the tube through the firewall) and the air filter housing is the low vacuum source to vent the cap. Ported vacuum from the carb base runs the primary vacuum advance and my secondary is capped.
I think the later models like yours had a VSV connected to the intake vacuum that controlled distributor venting, but not familiar with that system or how it would look once de-smogged.
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Thanks for posting this, when I do my headgasket I will probably revert back to the early coolant hardpipe, I didn't realized it would clear with the late 40/60 dizzy....
