77 FJ55 Montana to Florida

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

scrapdaddy said:
I know squat about the oil sender circuit, but maybe try putting a ground right to the sender body? Maybe something got fried in gauge cluster?
Click to expand...
Ahhh... that is one of today's first steps... I spray painted the oil cooler w high heat black paint, and I can't remember if I painted where the bolts go or not...
I will be doing the happy dance if that works,,, Thanks..makes perfect sense...
The FSM fuel gauge test (in line bulb attached to a ground and the line plug activates the fuel gauge).. Same w the water temp...
Because the water temp gauge is working w the above test my thought is the motor is grounded well and the line to the gauge cluster is good as well as the gauge itself... but...admittedly this is my steep learning curve...
I'm buying you an unlimited supply of beer next rally we're at together (limited to you and your wife, and within any 24 hour period!) LOL thanks
 
MacDaddyRabbit said:
I'm buying you an unlimited supply of beer next rally we're at together (limited to you and your wife, and within any 24 hour period!) LOL thanks
Click to expand...
Bring your check book, I can drink two beers and not afraid to drink three if forced. :) Hope you get it figured out.
 
nada... nothing... so now I'm thinking the oil pump went out on me?? @#$%^&*(... but is what it is...

Is there a test to ensure oil is pumping to the cylinder head? Visual via removing the valve cover?

I'm trying to understand how best to approach this issue... All the gauges went out... Just seems as if it's something at the gauge cluster... fuses are good...
My 82 40 has and inline fuse... I dont think the 55's had them in 77, the wiring diagram does not show one on the USA models... I keep going back to what BobM and many others have said it's a grounding issue... I've never used a 'toner' (Toomba's thread)... going to get one.. learning time... Any suggestions are most welcome ...
 
So get a t valve and a manual oil pressure gauge.
If I’m following correctly, remove the OEM sender, screw in the t valve where you just removed the OEM sender, then screw the manual oil pressure gauge into one end of the T, and the OEM sender into the other end ..?
Sorry to be so simple minded on this but taking baby steps to not screw it up. 🥴🥴
 
The oil pump is driven off of the distributor, so unless that popped up or you removed it and didn't set it properly, it should be fine. You definitely have a wiring issue. The ignitor should not be getting so hot you can't touch it. Some new oil senders have a ground tab that you can run a separate ground to. It is possible to fry the gauge. Add a ground or two to the engine to be sure it's grounded and then redo the FSM tests.
 
Like this! "T" fitting is metric so you need a metric to NPT adapter for the gauge 🤔😉. Capice!!!
20231016_071225.webp


Sticker is place I got it.
 
samc2447 said:
The oil pump is driven off of the distributor, so unless that popped up or you removed it and didn't set it properly, it should be fine. You definitely have a wiring issue. The ignitor should not be getting so hot you can't touch it. Some new oil senders have a ground tab that you can run a separate ground to. It is possible to fry the gauge. Add a ground or two to the engine to be sure it's grounded and then redo the FSM tests.
Click to expand...
This makes sense.. good 411... I haven't removed the distributor, and have to look to see if it's popped up..(?) Motor cranks up runs great..
What's befuddling (for me) as well is I have two 77 FJ55.. One is a cali spec, this one is not.. Two different OEM distributor models.. Cali (19100-61060) has a black wire and a red wire from the coil/ignitor assembly to a plug on the distributor that go inside.. This 55 (19100-61021) has just a red wire going to a screw/nut on the outside of the distributor... I keep thinking I need to run a ground from the negative coil terminal to the dist...(??) but It's not had one, and I haven't wanted to booger something up..
I am puzzled why the difference, and my OEM 55 wiring diagram show both the cali dist and the standard dist.. The standard dist just seems to need a ground but I can't see any evidence of it ever having one... It's got to be a ground is what I keep coming back to ..
Thanks for the 411 (everyone) ...
 
Thanks all for the help...
samc2447 said:
The oil pump is driven off of the distributor, so unless that popped up or you removed it and didn't set it properly, it should be fine. You definitely have a wiring issue. The ignitor should not be getting so hot you can't touch it. Some new oil senders have a ground tab that you can run a separate ground to. It is possible to fry the gauge. Add a ground or two to the engine to be sure it's grounded and then redo the FSM tests.
Click to expand...
Distro does not appear popped up...double checked...... I installed the new gauge... Now it's not responding to the FSM test (after I ran the tab to it)... and my thought is it's fried as well.. If that's the case, my approach is typically check the easiest things first....
Am I thinking correctly the short may be in the wiring loom from the ignitor to the oil pressure sender? That "loom bundle" is easy to disconnect and unwrap.. Inside it looks as if the red wire to the distro, the yellow black stripe wire to the oil sender, the reverse light sender (which works) wires, and other wires (including the fusible link wire/hot wire) ... maybe the short is in there? I've got a toner enroute after reading Tomba's great thread and guidance...
I installed another ground on the engine (thanks same2447)...removed, cleaned and reinstalled the terminals on the primary negative battery cable to the block....

So it cranks and runs...Driving lights work all around... back up lights work...blinkers do not, gauge lights do not, gauges do not...(but the fuel and temp gauges work following FSM tests).... I've got a new fuel sender enroute... I've got a new temp sender installed and an oil pressure sender (which I now think I've fried as well)...
Tomba asked if I had checked the fusible link... if everything listed works would the fusible link be bad?
 
Rick why don't you just have me come up there for the day instead of making yourself crazy? :lol:

FYI I have the tee's for the oil pressure sender that don't require additional fittings, as well as the fuel, oil and water temp senders...

Make sure sure you are hooking up the wire to the correct post on the oil pressure sender (the center one!)
Are you getting 12v on the wire? yellow with black stripe.
 
cruisermatt said:
Rick why don't you just have me come up there for the day instead of making yourself crazy? :lol:

FYI I have the tee's for the oil pressure sender that don't require additional fittings, as well as the fuel, oil and water temp senders...

Make sure sure you are hooking up the wire to the correct post on the oil pressure sender (the center one!)
Are you getting 12v on the wire? yellow with black stripe.
Click to expand...
The oil sender (OEM Toyota) that I have (both the original and the new one) only has the center post...

'm not certain about 12V yet .. I've got a VOM enroute w the toner to check...
Your offer to come up is most welcome and appreciated .. but I've got to push myself a bit more to learn what to do and how to do it.... but maybe it'll come to that...
 
Question: Are alternators grounded to the block via the alternator brackets and bolts? Hopefully the answer is yes... because if the answer is yes, I may be the culprit behind my electrical issues... I had the alternator bracket and adjusting arm both powder coated... the powder coating may be prohibiting a good ground..?? and I installed both just prior to the test run...
 
MacDaddyRabbit said:
Question: Are alternators grounded to the block via the alternator brackets and bolts? Hopefully the answer is yes... because if the answer is yes, I may be the culprit behind my electrical issues... I had the alternator bracket and adjusting arm both powder coated... the powder coating may be prohibiting a good ground..?? and I installed both just prior to the test run...
Click to expand...
That sounds very plausible, I don’t recall a big ground strap :hmm:
 
WarDamnEagle said:
If you have a lug on the back like this I’m pretty sure it’s a ground lug. I can look at my pig later to confirm.

View attachment 3460793
Click to expand...
I do have that.... and I have the white/black ground wire intact....What little common sense I have left my original thought was 'GTG' grounded...
But, I'm not certain so I googled 'does an alternator need to be grounded after I thought about my electric problem timeline, which was working fine prior to my test run... multiple articles say yes, has to be grounded to the block via bolts and bracket...and because I don't know and it's an easy task to disassemble, grind off the PC at points of contact, I'm going to try... 🤷‍♂️ 🤷‍♂️ 🤷‍♂️ 🤷‍♂️ Thanks much for the response...
 
I've removed the alternator bracket, ground the powder coating off the back and around the bolt holes and reinstalled....
I know now at least that it's grounded to the block... but not much has changed...

Interesting with the ignition switch on, the ignitor gets hot! more than warm.. I'm thinking I've got a short?
Anyone have experience w the ignitor getting hot?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Fjute1955
Aussie FJ55 77
Replies
2
Views
710
jmylie
jmylie
W
1970 FJ55
Replies
11
Views
1K
RUSH55
RUSH55
DTC72
FJ55 Battery & Tray
Replies
10
Views
1K
DTC72
DTC72
ERNRAM
Replacement front windshield 1973 FJ55
Replies
4
Views
584
ERNRAM
ERNRAM

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom