Builds 76 Fj40 Face Lift

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That is/was option #2 if I couldn't find a solution. FACT IS< I kinda' like the look of the old brass fitting...:bang::rolleyes:
Yah, but you oughta shine it up so's to match that valve cover :cool:
 
Slip sliding away.

After eyeballing the circumference of the new distributer, it occurred to me I was out of space along the engine block. The "mellon" on the new unit is 2-2 1/2x-ish the size of the old dizz. Not going to fit with the original plumbing.

Current plumbing configuration is in the stock location with the original brass water pipe tucked just below the head. So, I'm working through some options. There are two bosses on the valve cover that I think will work.

I mocked this up to ensure I had enough height without interfering with the stock air cleaner. That seems to be a "GO"!

I think the permanent solution will incorporate a piece of aluminum flat stock that will bridge the bosses. I can the hang the brass fitting on the bridge.

Current mockup for demo.

Original location:

View attachment 2957662
Looks like you could perhaps use the original mount points but just flip the pipe front/back which would put the mount ears pointing down and raise the pipe? I'm not standing there looking at it and it may not go at all and/or create sufficient clearance for distributor but would be slightly less invasive and less work?
 
That is/was option #2 if I couldn't find a solution. FACT IS< I kinda' like the look of the old brass fitting...:bang::rolleyes:
Reminds you of grandpappy’s still, don’t it?

:hillbilly:
 
I heard a rumour that it’s going to be a welding school for women within a certain age group, working on my resume now.🤓
Women welders of a certain age are actually a "thing."

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Slip sliding away.

After eyeballing the circumference of the new distributer, it occurred to me I was out of space along the engine block. The "mellon" on the new unit is 2-2 1/2x-ish the size of the old dizz. Not going to fit with the original plumbing.

Current plumbing configuration is in the stock location with the original brass water pipe tucked just below the head. So, I'm working through some options. There are two bosses on the valve cover that I think will work.

I mocked this up to ensure I had enough height without interfering with the stock air cleaner. That seems to be a "GO"!

I think the permanent solution will incorporate a piece of aluminum flat stock that will bridge the bosses. I can the hang the brass fitting on the bridge.

Current mockup for demo.

Original location:

View attachment 2957662
Mocked up with plumbing...Clears the air cleaner.

View attachment 2957665

View attachment 2957666



no no no .......... :confused:

HOUSTON :

The TEq Has Landed :D:beer:





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THAT'S WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!!
 
Later, Ima' set the groove on some "Lemon Dope", piped through some vintage Cerwin Vegas, in your honor....."Smooth Big Cat".

Oh, and if I cant get one, its not real..:moon:

no no no .......... :confused:

HOUSTON :


The TEq Has Landed :D:beer:
 
Does it "actually" fit around the DUI distributor?

I chucked my hard line and just am running a soft line now.


These things are a mystery to me too. From looking at my setup, sans distributer, I need to route above the cap. I defiantly want to keep the rear heater intact, so ditching the line altogether is not an option.
 
Later, Ima' set the groove on some "Lemon Dope", piped through some vintage Cerwin Vegas, in your honor....."Smooth Big Cat".

Oh, and if I cant get one, its not real..:moon:
Cerwin Vega, another California-born phenom. 😉
 
And affordable by mere mortal men.....👍👈:cool:
Interesting timing.

I was just telling my son’s current GF over breakfast yesterday about my second job, working for one of the guys who helped launch Mr. Cerwinski’s career by getting his sound equipment into all the discotheques that were sprouting up in the second half of the 1970s.
As I related to her, my job was on the “V” side of the AV spectrum, soldering all the little light bulbs onto the wire ropes that went into the 8’ clear plastic tubes that were run along the walls and inset into the floors of the discos.
The job nominally took 45 minutes per tube. Being the natural born tinkerer that I am, I began tweaking the layout table, as well as the production technique, as soon as the supervisor left me alone. Within three weeks, my average time was 30 minutes/ tube. Within three more it was 22. By the end of 3 months I was producing lit tubes in 15 minute intervals.

At that point I went to the boss and asked for a $1/hr raise, explaining that I was producing $60/hr more profit for him than any other employee. He declined, saying that he only gave raises based on seniority. Even though I was only 16 years old, I calmly explained to him that there was no incentive to produce more otherwise, and that $1 was nominal. When he declined my polite explanation, I tendered my resignation. Shortly thereafter I concluded there was a good chance that I would end up having to go into business for myself.😉
 
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Shortly thereafter I concluded there was a good chance that I would end up having to go into business for myself.😉

And the rest is history....🙃

That's a great story. Your stories seem to have a great deal more reality than mine.....
 
These things are a mystery to me too. From looking at my setup, sans distributer, I need to route above the cap. I defiantly want to keep the rear heater intact, so ditching the line altogether is not an option.
My soft line goes around the dizzy toward the fender. It's out of the way and haven't had an issue yet.
 
Not difficult at all. Out of the way of dizzy cap and dip stick.

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Is it any bigger than the Toyota big cap distributor?

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That is/was option #2 if I couldn't find a solution. FACT IS< I kinda' like the look of the old brass fitting...:bang::rolleyes:
If you really like the old brass, i have a small collection..perhaps find one that fits better

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