Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special (2 Viewers)

[Bazz]

I was able to get the ones for the 75 with the non-removable door frames, did 75 series also have removable window frames?

I am wondering if I get a regular set, and then just cut them shorter???

I was curious about this myself. I was thinking maybe there’s a way to cut the new weatherstrip in half, and glue the part that screws into the door from the old set onto the new set. Since it’s pressed between the door it doesn’t seem like it would need to be a super strong hold. Risky procedure though if it doesn’t work out.

 

[TaylorDurdan]

looking at the boards, mine is much different than the 80 and different than both of yours, mine has three screws in a row that are the three wire connections while the 80 has them at opposite corners.View attachment 2440759
View attachment 2440760

@joekatana got any ideas.

On chris's truck, the 80 series tach was actually physically modified to run in the 70 series cluster and had the 70 series tach gauge face transferred onto the 80 series tach itself. The round steel plate on the back of the 70 series tach was removed and attached to the 80 series tach backside via ABS plastic and double sided tape. The three posts across the 70 series tach top were removed from the circuit board, wires soldered to them, and then attached to the 80 series circuit board points. The gauge face clear mount on the 80 series tach needed to be redrilled for the more narrow 70 series gauge face mounting.

There's actually quite a bit of ingenuity that went into the swap.

 

[2fpower]

On chris's truck, the 80 series tach was actually physically modified to run in the 70 series cluster and had the 70 series tach gauge face transferred onto the 80 series tach itself. The round steel plate on the back of the 70 series tach was removed and attached to the 80 series tach backside via ABS plastic and double sided tape. The three posts across the 70 series tach top were removed from the circuit board, wires soldered to them, and then attached to the 80 series circuit board points. The gauge face clear mount on the 80 series tach needed to be redrilled for the more narrow 70 series gauge face mounting.

There's actually quite a bit of ingenuity that went into the swap.

thanks for the "behind the scenes" description. Wow....

 

[OGBeno]

On chris's truck, the 80 series tach was actually physically modified to run in the 70 series cluster and had the 70 series tach gauge face transferred onto the 80 series tach itself. The round steel plate on the back of the 70 series tach was removed and attached to the 80 series tach backside via ABS plastic and double sided tape. The three posts across the 70 series tach top were removed from the circuit board, wires soldered to them, and then attached to the 80 series circuit board points. The gauge face clear mount on the 80 series tach needed to be redrilled for the more narrow 70 series gauge face mounting.

There's actually quite a bit of ingenuity that went into the swap.

Impressive. Serious engineering.

 

[2fpower]

Finally started using it for what it’s intended. Off the pavement and hauling stuff...

 

[2fpower]

We got a ton of little stuff done on the truck this weekend....

Brand new door weatherstripping on both driver and pass side.

Hood latch adjusted, so it finally will stay closed.

Radio and dash gauges all work now... had to take them in and out too many times!!!!

Fuel gauge never moved, and it ended up I had swapped the low fuel wire for the fuel gauge wire. Done.

A/C is turning on again!

Steering wheel is clocked and looks right now driving down the road.

The Tach still is not working. May just have to sell it without a working tach.

Question for the masses.... The key is loose in the ignition and the little button release is not there on the column. I was going to order the key kit that @WarDamnEagle used but it does not come with those pieces... Does anyone know those part numbers?

Pics to come.

Thanks,

 

[WarDamnEagle]

On my '94, I think this is the part which has the "button" built in.......but I could be wrong:

45280A	BRACKET ASSY, STEERING COLUMN, UPPER
45280-60181

Some steering columns don't have the lock/unlock button and on those the steering column clamshell has a plug over that hole. If you don't have a button then I am guessing your truck did not come with one and the clamshell plug is missing........again; just an educated guess.

 

[2fpower]

On my '94, I think this is the part which has the "button" built in.......but I could be wrong:

45280A	BRACKET ASSY, STEERING COLUMN, UPPER
45280-60181

Some steering columns don't have the lock/unlock button and on those the steering column clamshell has a plug over that hole. If you don't have a button then I am guessing your truck did not come with one and the clamshell plug is missing........again; just an educated guess.

Good information there. Thanks. Makes much more sense.

 

[2fpower]

@WarDamnEagle - just got the lockset from Dubai.

Before I try to do this... Is there a trick to getting the lockset out of the steering column?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

@WarDamnEagle - just got the lockset from Dubai.

Before I try to do this... Is there a trick to getting the lockset out of the steering column?

Yes. Remove the steering column clamshell. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to accessory. Look on the front of the assembly that holds the key barrel and you will see a small hole. Small as in like 2mm. That hole can be seen from the driver's viewpoint and is about 3/4 of the way of the cylinder barrel depth from the key side.

Use a small pick or allen wrench and push it into the hole. You will find resistance; keep pushing and when you bottom out then wiggle/pull on the key cylinder and it will come out.

I had a hell of a time getting the new one in. I literally had to use pliers to press it in to get it deep enough to engage the catch.

 

[2fpower]

So glad I asked. Thanks @WarDamnEagle !!!

 

[2fpower]

I have the tach adapter, but it still is not quite working. The question of the day is how to determine if my old tach is working. This would be the tach that came with the carb'd 1fz engine. here is the back of it.

anyone know how to test it easily?

 

[2fpower]

Yes. Remove the steering column clamshell. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to accessory. Look on the front of the assembly that holds the key barrel and you will see a small hole. Small as in like 2mm. That hole can be seen from the driver's viewpoint and is about 3/4 of the way of the cylinder barrel depth from the key side.

Use a small pick or allen wrench and push it into the hole. You will find resistance; keep pushing and when you bottom out then wiggle/pull on the key cylinder and it will come out.

I had a hell of a time getting the new one in. I literally had to use pliers to press it in to get it deep enough to engage the catch.

oh my gosh, may have took five minutes! Thank you very much for the easy instructions

 

[speedkills]

Awesome build. Read it all. That truck came a long way.

Wow.

 

[2fpower]

Been driving it a little bit more still working out some of the bugs. The door weatherstripping took care of almost all the water leaks but I think I have a small leak around the windshield. It sure turns heads!!

 

[Mr Cimarron]

Looks sharp. Im kicking myself for not getting the 79 grill and lights on my build.

 

[coldtaco]

I really like that bumper

 

[Willis]

In some languages "70 Series" is literally translated into "leaky water truck"

 

[JuanJ]

In some languages "70 Series" is literally translated into "leaky water truck"

Hello,

70 Series leaks (or should I say leak gremlins) are on a tie with electrical gremlins in my book.





Juan

 

[SNLC]

I would drive it.

Cheers