75' FJ40 Parked for 20+ years. (1 Viewer)

[Braden620]

2 projects that I hope to tackle next are the PTO gear installation and a new exhaust. The existing exhaust was paper thin and full of holes. I made some welds to keep things together for the time being but a recent log crossing destroyed what was left of some seriously corroded pipe. Anyways, the exhaust I can handle with relative ease, the PTO gear is a project of a different magnitude.

Pulled and installed many a trans but moving around some of the spares that I have, their mass rivals everything I've dealt with before. In the past I have always removed all transfer cases separate from transmissions. I don't want to pull the trans if I don't have to and so the only benefit to doing so would be the chance to change the rear main and install a new clutch.

I would rather split the transfer case while attached to the transmission if possible but will ultimately do what's easiest.

So what's the consensus...

Option
A - Pull trans and t-case as a unit, split outside of truck, install gear and new clutch.
B - split t case on truck and only install gear.
C - pull t case and split outside of truck, only install gear.

There isn't a huge amount of info on MUD for this process. And NO info on JUST installing a pto gear.

 

[Goldbug]

I need some opinions on door seals. I would gladly buy OEM seals if my doors were in better shape. I don't want to spend big $$$ for something I'm going to have to remove and trash in a few years. But in the meantime I cant roll around with this crud and these drafts. Will need all 4 doors. I've heard not so good things about the aftermarket seals sold by SOR, CCOT, etc. Plus, I'm definitely not a fan of buying anything from CCOT and starting to be the same way about SOR.

Cruiser Outfitters has some reasonably priced aftermarket seals but I'm not sure how they compare to the OEM.

I'm a big fan of OEM. I went with city racer on the front doors and the rubber is very beefy, so the doors stick out quite a bit and don't have the cushyness (now a word..) that enables a nice seal. I've ordered OEM for ambi doors and tub to hard top and it's great, even though it is a good bit more expensive.

 

[Braden620]

I'm a big fan of OEM. I went with city racer on the front doors and the rubber is very beefy, so the doors stick out quite a bit and don't have the cushyness (now a word..) that enables a nice seal. I've ordered OEM for ambi doors and tub to hard top and it's great, even though it is a good bit more expensive.

I completely agree. The reason for not going OEM is to save $$$ until the day she gets new paint, but still prevent air and water intrusion in the mean time.

 

[Dizzy]

You wont save money if the door doesn't close.

 

[Braden620]

You wont save money if the door doesn't close.

Technically the doors don't close now, I can see daylight and feel a breeze.

 

[Braden620]

Ordered a Magnaflow #12577

Although there are a number of variables determining pipe flow, Magnaflow does not provide a loss term function you can use to determine the exit velocity and or the flow loss generated by their different muffler offerings. Nor do they provide any functions in terms of dB reduction. Because their muffler designs are of the absorption type, it's safe to say that the larger the muffler, the biggest sound energy decrease (delta dB). I chose the 12577 based off of overall size (external geometry), but also the inlet and outlet configuration based simply off of Pythagorean Theorem. The length of the control volume (pipe) inside the 12577 is longer than that of a muffler with a pipe that is parallel to the muffler body. In terms of quiet, this increases the frictional loss inside the control volume, which is always a function of length, and increases the time that a fluid element takes to travel through the control volume entirely (pipe).

So in layman's terms, this is the quietest muffler they had, and should provide the maximum sneakiness in the woods!

MagnaFlow 5" X 11" Oval Offset/Offset Straight Through Performance Muf

Fully reversible and featuring a free-flowing, straight-through perforated stainless steel core, stainless mesh wraps our acoustic fiber fill to deliver a smooth, deep tone for your custom exhaust project.

www.magnaflow.com

Assuming it comes in later this week, I will be building a new exhaust (downpipe back) next week. Stay Tuned!

 

[toyotaboy92]

Ordered a Magnaflow #12577

Although there are a number of variables determining pipe flow, Magnaflow does not provide a loss term function you can use to determine the exit velocity and or the flow loss generated by their different muffler offerings. Nor do they provide any functions in terms of dB reduction. Because their muffler designs are of the absorption type, it's safe to say that the larger the muffler, the biggest sound energy decrease (delta dB). I chose the 12577 based off of overall size (external geometry), but also the inlet and outlet configuration based simply off of Pythagorean Theorem. The length of the control volume (pipe) inside the 12577 is longer than that of a muffler with a pipe that is parallel to the muffler body. In terms of quiet, this increases the frictional loss inside the control volume, which is always a function of length, and increases the time that a fluid element takes to travel through the control volume entirely (pipe).

So in layman's terms, this is the quietest muffler they had, and should provide the maximum sneakiness in the woods!

MagnaFlow 5" X 11" Oval Offset/Offset Straight Through Performance Muf

Fully reversible and featuring a free-flowing, straight-through perforated stainless steel core, stainless mesh wraps our acoustic fiber fill to deliver a smooth, deep tone for your custom exhaust project.

www.magnaflow.com

Assuming it comes in later this week, I will be building a new exhaust (downpipe back) next week. Stay Tuned!

I believe I have this one on mine, older model and I am wishing it was way quieter. It has been on there for about 10 years. It sounds good at low speeds but long trips with my soft top on I need earplugs after awhile. I am looking for something that is deep but not droning on the high speeds. I will be interested in your results. I also have Headers and 2.5" stainless pipe all the way back.

MagnaFlow 4" Round Center/Center Straight Through Performance Muffler

Fully reversible and featuring a free-flowing, straight-through perforated stainless steel core, stainless mesh wraps our acoustic fiber fill to deliver a smooth, deep tone for your custom exhaust project.

www.magnaflow.com

 

[Braden620]

I believe I have this one on mine, older model and I am wishing it was way quieter. It has been on there for about 10 years. It sounds good at low speeds but long trips with my soft top on I need earplugs after awhile. I am looking for something that is deep but not droning on the high speeds. I will be interested in your results. I also have Headers and 2.5" stainless pipe all the way back.

The last exhaust system I built was for my 1990 240sx LE, I built it in 3" as I intended to turbocharge it but I sold it before doing so. Because it was not turbocharged it had a terrible drone/resonance and any length of drive time required ear plugs. I ended up adding in 2 dynomax bullets that helped some. Here is a picture of it, I built everything from scratch including the hangers and flange.

 

[iptman]

I have a Walker Quiet Flow offset on mine and it's very quiet. No drone at all.

 

[Braden620]

New exhaust complete. Very quiet.

 

[Braden620]

Extracted all the broken bolts for the step/bumpers before I put the muffler on. Note this pipe is 1/8" wall. Heavy duty exhaust for a heavy duty truck.

 

[Braden620]

Can anyone identify this trailer hitch? It's cast and has "JT69L" on it. Looks nicer than the one on the truck currently.

 

[archie73]

I don’t know if it’s stock or oem, but my 73 had that too.

 

[cbmontgo]

Can anyone identify this trailer hitch? It's cast and has "JT69L" on it. Looks nicer than the one on the truck currently.

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I’d run it. That’s cool.

 

[Bshaunessy]

Very cool thread and a very cool project: resurrecting your grampas FJ40...a good read. Excellent job in a very short 3 months.
Q?didn’t see the conclusion RE adding PTO gear to transfer case ( about to tackle on my 1966 FJ45 .....have the PTO winch but not the Tcase gearing)

 

[Braden620]

Very cool thread and a very cool project: resurrecting your grampas FJ40...a good read. Excellent job in a very short 3 months.
Q?didn’t see the conclusion RE adding PTO gear to transfer case ( about to tackle on my 1966 FJ45 .....have the PTO winch but not the Tcase gearing)

I have the gear stashed away safely. I have spoken to one mud member who said the gear install can not be done without pulling the trans and t case together. If this is truly the case I will likely throw a clutch kit in the old gal as well as re surface the flywheel and slap a rear main in as well. I am in the process of cleaning up the winch components and writing a massive parts list for the winch install and to fix other issues on the truck.

 

[PabloCruise]

New exhaust complete. Very quiet.

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"Sounds" like your muffler selection work paid off (ha ha)!

Question - Why not run the exhaust up under the skid plate, next to the frame rail? The current location looks like it will decrease clearance and be susceptible to getting crushed on obstacles...

 

[Braden620]

"Sounds" like your muffler selection work paid off (ha ha)!

Question - Why not run the exhaust up under the skid plate, next to the frame rail? The current location looks like it will decrease clearance and be susceptible to getting crushed on obstacles...

I do not currently have a skid plate (was missing). And as I understand it, the factory exhaust was routed just as I routed it. and you're right, it is susceptible to damage. I believe the earlier trucks had the exhaust above the skid plate. I do not know why or what warranted the change. Maybe someone has some info/pictures to shed some light on this.

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi, Looking good. Should be easy to fab up a skid plate. I would not run the woods without one. Mike

 

[Braden620]

I disassembled one of the winch heads yesterday. This one was one of the "good" units. As it had all of its mounting ears intact.

Let me just say that although I have never used a Toyota pto winch I believe it's absolutely imperative that you don't pull at extreme angles, or at least, if you do for the love of all things DO NOT let the cable wind OFF the drum.

I knew when I pulled the drain plug and there was a plug of gunk and no oil, I knew something wasnt right.

This unit is salvageable, with a case repair and new bearings. Should be a fun project. It's not a total loss and I have more but still sucks. I will probably put this unit into service and save the others for the future.