BTW, the 'drip rail' on the hard top needs to hold that fiberglass down when the wind kicks up at speed and whatnot. I almost bought a '72 from a seller who just lost the fiberglass top on the highway. It ruined the hardtop side in the process.
75' FJ40 Parked for 20+ years. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Braden620
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- Thread starter
- #142
The fuel inlet screen was cleaned when I rebuilt the carb, and never run without a filter so Its likely OK. You're right about he carbon from the valves, I could see some when looking down the ports. I can replace the seals, I have the tool to keep the valve up and a set of NOS seals (probably get the newer style). The truck doesn't smoke but the #5 exhaust port was damp when I pulled the manifolds to replace he gasket. So the #5 valve stem seal is suspect at this point. I have been running shell 93 octane with a healthy dose of Marvel Mystery Oil.
- Thread starter
- #143
Even though the rail is rusted its pretty solid. I have a few tops that are in better shape. I will swap one out when I can get a gasket and some time.
The biggest challenge was the spring compression tool. Commercial ones didn't push far enough, for some on the forum. I made one out of angle iron, and it was tricky around cylinder 6 with the engine installed, but I got it done.
My 2F just barely smoked, upon startup and at deceleration, but it was enough to shiny the plugs. The bigger problem was that oil was getting baked on top of the intake valves, and it probably was adding fuel to the fire on the exhaust valves.
My 2F just barely smoked, upon startup and at deceleration, but it was enough to shiny the plugs. The bigger problem was that oil was getting baked on top of the intake valves, and it probably was adding fuel to the fire on the exhaust valves.
- Thread starter
- #145
After almost 3 tanks of fuel here are some observations.
- The front end needs some parts.
- Even though I attempted to clean the fuel tank I am fighting some debris, 1 clogged filter, and a clogged pickup.
- If I try to maintain 3/4 throttle when cruising I get an occasional pop/ backfire through the carb.
- The rear doors need some adjustments and seals as they bang around quite loudly.
- I need to address the front windows pretty soon, they need channel felts, and inner and outer squeegees.
- A lot of small things to fix, horn, radio, windshield washer pump, running lights.
- The steering wheel is cocked about 30*, not sure how this happened in its past life but I need to pull it so I can use the left turn signal.
- The heater works great, burns my legs up. I may throw in a rear heater later this winter.
- NEED WINCH.
- Thread starter
- #146
Dug out 3 PTO Winches yesterday to evaluate and decide which one I want to clean up and use. Unfortunately I was not able to get any pictures. I've got 3 PTO assemblies, 3 winch heads, and 2.5 shafts with pillow blocks. I should be able to make one work with little effort. I will likely tear everything down for cleaning painting and sealing. Got a few more bits out of our cruiser boneyard for the 75', 4x4 knob, a rear bumper, column cover.
- Thread starter
- #147
Still battling something in the tank. The small amount of crud has almost completely stopped but something in the tank restricts flow at random times. I may have to pull the tank to inspect. I may try a high volume recirculating filter setup to avoid washing the tank again. It's almost like there is a few large pieces of crud that get attached to the pickup tube. I can kill the engine and pull over and the float chamber is dry. The float chamber is also dry after letting the truck sit overnight, draining out somewhere. A fuel injection swap sounds appealing at this point. I've done this before on Japanese tin and it makes a whole new vehicle out of one.
I've also developed a radiator leak along the top seam. I may try and solder myself.
I also cant get the brake pressure switches to seal. A healthy dose of PTFE paste may be the trick.
Got to enjoy the truck yesterday evening for awhile with no troubles.
I've also developed a radiator leak along the top seam. I may try and solder myself.
I also cant get the brake pressure switches to seal. A healthy dose of PTFE paste may be the trick.
Got to enjoy the truck yesterday evening for awhile with no troubles.
New fuel tank? OEM is still available. Run new hard lines, etc.
The EFI has got to be nice. But, I'm seeing quite a few threads with folks on Mud reporting problems, swapping out relatively new parts. Us carburetor folks are still running original equipment from 45 years ago. The actual units seem good, but the fuel pumps and O2 sensors are sensitive. You can burn a little coolant, burn a little oil, have a spark issue, or exhaust condensation, and your carburetor isn't dependent on a functioning O2 sensor.
The EFI has got to be nice. But, I'm seeing quite a few threads with folks on Mud reporting problems, swapping out relatively new parts. Us carburetor folks are still running original equipment from 45 years ago. The actual units seem good, but the fuel pumps and O2 sensors are sensitive. You can burn a little coolant, burn a little oil, have a spark issue, or exhaust condensation, and your carburetor isn't dependent on a functioning O2 sensor.
- Thread starter
- #149
There's a hug difference between basic EFI and todays government mandated overcomplicated mess of what they call fuel injection. The idea of EFI is appealing, not only for the lack of 45 year old carburetor headaches but for cold starts and overall dependability as well as fuel economy. EFI is not 100% dependent on an O2 sensor, even when there is only 1 in the system. If I were to switch to such a system it would be a ways off, meaning the carb is here for now. I don't particularly have any issues with this carb, as its simple in design and in tuning. I do wish the float chamber wouldn't drain. Other than that small problem the majority of my issues are tank related. As for parts quality, I think we can all agree that no matter what it is, if its automotive you get what you pay for. Usually the high end Bosch O2 sensors have a long service life, and most decent fuel injectors can last 1/4 of a million miles. A MAP sensor and or a MAF and that's really all that's needed. All of these components are easily tested or viewed real time and can be ruled out as good or bad much easier than trying to remember if the 53 carb check balls, springs, and diaphragms are in their proper orientation and in working order
For the tank, its in great shape. Virtually no corrosion to speak of. It did sit for 20 years open to dust and debris, which I did my best to clean out. I don't think that whatever is clogging the pickup is anything large in volume but likely a few bits of gunk that shouldn't give any issue once removed. I think the best course of action is to try and drain the tank and inspect. I have a walbro 255 I could hook up and let it re circulate for a few hours. The flow rate 255 l/hr should be an order of magnitude higher than what the stock mechanical pump provides at redline and I would think if there were any debris small enough to get into the pickup they would get filtered out. I could watch the filter while the pump is running and see exactly if/when a large piece blocks the pickup.
All things considered she is running pretty good for having sat for 20 years, and several of those with no sparks plugs or fuel pump in place. I'm 4 tanks of fuel in and she hasn't left me walking and when the fuel is supplied in proper volume, she runs pretty damned good for a 45 year old tractor.
- Thread starter
- #150
Decided to tackle the trans and transfer case lubricant yesterday. I checked both fluid levels before taking the first drive. I didn't realize how nasty the trans was or I would have changed it BEFORE I started driving. Although it looks like water I don't believe there was any in it, just a funky orange color. The flash on the camera makes it look milkier (is that a word?) than it really was. I'm going to go ahead and change this again after a short interval. Gotta save some of the GL-4 for the pto install.
Since the output shaft seal on the T case was leaking I decided I would change it out while I was at it. And since the parking brake needed work too an inspection/cleanup/adjustment was in order.
Everything went great until it came time to fill the T case, and it was at that point I realized the Rock Auto catalog screwed me. Apparently there are two different shaft diameters for the parking brake drum assembly. One has a shaft size of 1.772" and the other of 1.89". Naturally I installed the larger seal and have the smaller shaft, hilarious right. So I lost half a qt. of 90W and had to order the proper seal. I jumped up to a 76' to get the proper part #. In retrospect I should have taken careful measurements before. I wasn't aware there was a change made until after and I let my guard down on my own inspection and repair process. I suppose it is possible that the PO changed the drum to a later style assuming they would interchange. No big deal I guess, I ordered 2 seals so I will have an extra in my toolbox.
Since the output shaft seal on the T case was leaking I decided I would change it out while I was at it. And since the parking brake needed work too an inspection/cleanup/adjustment was in order.
Everything went great until it came time to fill the T case, and it was at that point I realized the Rock Auto catalog screwed me. Apparently there are two different shaft diameters for the parking brake drum assembly. One has a shaft size of 1.772" and the other of 1.89". Naturally I installed the larger seal and have the smaller shaft, hilarious right. So I lost half a qt. of 90W and had to order the proper seal. I jumped up to a 76' to get the proper part #. In retrospect I should have taken careful measurements before. I wasn't aware there was a change made until after and I let my guard down on my own inspection and repair process. I suppose it is possible that the PO changed the drum to a later style assuming they would interchange. No big deal I guess, I ordered 2 seals so I will have an extra in my toolbox.
- Thread starter
- #151
Well I wish I had some better recovery equipment and the pto winch installed already. Missed a chance to pull a heep out of a creek. The heeps electric winch and engine were disabled (engine waterlogged, winch issue unknown). Had over a 100ft of synthetic out and it's a tad too springy when your not anchored somewhere. Still probably could have gotten him out if I could have gotten the torque down to the ground. Loose creek rock offers virtually no friction kinetically. Oh well. Really gets me fired up to get a winch on though.
So instead of pulling these guys out I gave them a ride. Scared them a little when I lit up through a moderately steep hill when leaving.
A few pics from the "trail".
So instead of pulling these guys out I gave them a ride. Scared them a little when I lit up through a moderately steep hill when leaving.
A few pics from the "trail".
That bridge pic... Midwest fall foliage... that truck... well done man!
- Thread starter
- #154
Been searching all over and haven't seen any threads containing the installation of the 16 spline PTO gear into the T case. If I pull the cover and have a factory installed gear I will go buy a lottery ticket right away. In the event the gear is not in there, Grandad kindly left me a new one to install. I have a feeling that installing the gear is a solid 2 or 3 day project. Probably turning into one of those "While I have this apart" things too.
And I forgot to show you my new part I drew up and printed the other day. Was a lot easier to put a new one on then pull the wheel off one of the parts trucks.
And I forgot to show you my new part I drew up and printed the other day. Was a lot easier to put a new one on then pull the wheel off one of the parts trucks.
Call it GranmpsSo cool that you can get your grandfathers truck and hopefully put it back on the road.
I’ll bet with some elbow grease that old paint will clean up nice.
Better add tires to the list!
Rad thread. Cool to see it come back to life. Glad you got the bezel painted. I bet with some compound and polish that paint is going to look great when you get to it. Also, when you get the coin/time you should mount a full size spare if you're wheelin' it. The single most common off road issue is a flat. Looking forward to more as you continue.
- Thread starter
- #157
I need some opinions on door seals. I would gladly buy OEM seals if my doors were in better shape. I don't want to spend big $$$ for something I'm going to have to remove and trash in a few years. But in the meantime I cant roll around with this crud and these drafts. Will need all 4 doors. I've heard not so good things about the aftermarket seals sold by SOR, CCOT, etc. Plus, I'm definitely not a fan of buying anything from CCOT and starting to be the same way about SOR.
Cruiser Outfitters has some reasonably priced aftermarket seals but I'm not sure how they compare to the OEM.
Cruiser Outfitters has some reasonably priced aftermarket seals but I'm not sure how they compare to the OEM.
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tlaporte
SILVER Star
Have you looked at CityRacer’s offering? Lots of folks here happy with his products.
Front Door Seal Weatherstrips for '75 to '84 Land Cruiser FJ40
Front door seal / weatherstrips for '75 to '84 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. High quality reproduction; equivalent to OEM part #s 67861-90300 (RH) and 67862-90300 (LH). Your choice of a full set (LH and RH) or either side. Installation tips
www.cityracerllc.com
- Thread starter
- #159
I have, I wonder how they compare to Cruiser Outfitters? Very similar price. I have ordered from both places and so far they both are great places to deal with.Have you looked at CityRacer’s offering? Lots of folks here happy with his products.
Front Door Seal Weatherstrips for '75 to '84 Land Cruiser FJ40
Front door seal / weatherstrips for '75 to '84 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40. High quality reproduction; equivalent to OEM part #s 67861-90300 (RH) and 67862-90300 (LH). Your choice of a full set (LH and RH) or either side. Installation tipswww.cityracerllc.com
- Thread starter
- #160
Ordered an OEM output rear shaft seal and installed today. The other 2 box brand were junk.
Ordered a side cover gasket and pulled cover to check for gear. No dice.
Ordered a side cover gasket and pulled cover to check for gear. No dice.
