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- #121
Mounted.
75' FJ40 Parked for 20+ years. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Braden620
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- Thread starter
- #122
Not any major updates, have a few orders out for parts. Gathered some more necessaries and cleaned up the hubs and rad hoses. A wipe down with some 303 and the hoses are as good as new.
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- #123
Brakes bled, adjusters adjusted, wheels on, hubs on.
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- #125
Agreed, it's on my punch list.
- Thread starter
- #126
What's the deal with getting wipers of the vintage of the truck? The OEM blades I have and you can put in refills, but Toyota only sells the whole blade? No sense in making them stainless for such a short service life. There has got to be a cut to length rubber that fits into the stock blade holders. I buy OEM refills for all my vehicles and they usually run $3-$4 per blade.
I bought OEM blades via City Racer. They only seem to work well in one direction.
I have one OEM blade for my Nissan 720, and it would be super cool getting it a matching pair and some refills. Humm...
I have one OEM blade for my Nissan 720, and it would be super cool getting it a matching pair and some refills. Humm...
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- #128
City Racer is currently sold out of those. I have those exact arms and the blades are removeable. Can probably get 23 different high quality types in J-Pan. This is another good example of how we USED to be "Green" and now we aren't.
For the 720 or 620 the stock blades were very similar to the FJ40's, probably a Trico made blade. If I find anything that can be cut to length for the Cruiser I would expect it to work on the 720. My 620 didn't come with stock blades but I have some 510 I can dig out that should be about the same.
To my eye, the stock blades fit wobbly, and depending on how they rest, it is or is not parallel with the weatherstrip, sometimes it rides on top of the weatherstrip.
- Thread starter
- #130
Topped off the transfer case lubricant, greased everything, changed intake gasket to a remflex, adjusted valves, radiator and hoses in, alternator in. Took her for a drive, everything was well. A few miles in she started running rough like she dropped a cylinder. No power, and missing. Made it back and she shut off, wouldn't start back. Finally got her started again by holding pedal to the floor and cranking until she hit. Running rough at this point.
I had previously cleaned and adjusted the points before I could get spark so I opted to check this again to confirm. Removed them, cleaned, re set. Replaced the distributor wire (red from dizzy to green connector) also. Truck started up and ran better but still not full power under any sort of load. Before I did this the truck wouldn't even start so just doing this was a huge improvement.
Verified timing @ 7* BTDC with timing light, adjusted idle to 650 with tach/dwell meter. The dwell was some degrees off but I don't know how accurate this old meter was. I swapped in another ND coil and no change. Re adjusted the valves (Hot this time), no change.
I'm not sure what else to check. The plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are all new. No vacuum leaks (checked around the base of carb and carb shafts with brake cleaner). Brake booster is good, capped off and no change). The float bowl is full of fuel, fuel tank was cleaned, new filter installed and fresh gas. I'm 99.5% sure this issue is NOT carb/fuel related.
The only thing I can think to check is the mechanical advance, or replace the points since they have been problematic from the start.
Any Ideas?
I had previously cleaned and adjusted the points before I could get spark so I opted to check this again to confirm. Removed them, cleaned, re set. Replaced the distributor wire (red from dizzy to green connector) also. Truck started up and ran better but still not full power under any sort of load. Before I did this the truck wouldn't even start so just doing this was a huge improvement.
Verified timing @ 7* BTDC with timing light, adjusted idle to 650 with tach/dwell meter. The dwell was some degrees off but I don't know how accurate this old meter was. I swapped in another ND coil and no change. Re adjusted the valves (Hot this time), no change.
I'm not sure what else to check. The plugs, wires, cap, and rotor are all new. No vacuum leaks (checked around the base of carb and carb shafts with brake cleaner). Brake booster is good, capped off and no change). The float bowl is full of fuel, fuel tank was cleaned, new filter installed and fresh gas. I'm 99.5% sure this issue is NOT carb/fuel related.
The only thing I can think to check is the mechanical advance, or replace the points since they have been problematic from the start.
Any Ideas?
Ocho77
SILVER Star
Man, she looks good! I bet that paint will really pop when you eventually have time for polish. Nice work!
John McVicker
SILVER Star
Not running right...is it possible some spark plugs wires got crossed?
- Thread starter
- #133
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #134
Made the 40 mile journey home with no real issues. Some popping occasionally maybe when secondary closes? I dunno. Drove around a bunch more and she seems to be running smooth. Got into some mud too. Lots of rust falling down from the top. Definitely need some front end parts.
- Thread starter
- #135
Even though I cleaned the fuel tank out the best I could there was some fines that eventually clogged the filter. Picked up a couple cheapie clear ones for the mean time. Drove about 60 miles today, going to need a better muffler, the glass pack is just too loud. Its got a whole rusted in it anyways.
She still does the occasional popping under cruising conditions, goes away if I press the throttle down. Also gradually accelerating I can not get to 60mph, she breaks up after 55, but If I feather the throttle I can get up past 60 relatively smoothly. I'm assuming the extra fuel from the accelerator pump is doing the trick. I guess the mixture is leaning out at higher rpms and causing the stumble? May need to invest in a good AFR meter and or some fuel injection.
She still does the occasional popping under cruising conditions, goes away if I press the throttle down. Also gradually accelerating I can not get to 60mph, she breaks up after 55, but If I feather the throttle I can get up past 60 relatively smoothly. I'm assuming the extra fuel from the accelerator pump is doing the trick. I guess the mixture is leaning out at higher rpms and causing the stumble? May need to invest in a good AFR meter and or some fuel injection.
You are having intake stumble, or exhaust rumble?
- Thread starter
- #137
It almost like a backfire, but its not a huge bang out the exhaust, more like a pop, possibly back through the carb. I can feel it both in the throttle pedal and if my hand is on the shifter, a momentary reduction in torque that can be felt.
What is your vac number at idle?
- Thread starter
- #139
Not sure don't have a gauge at the moment.
That chunk of carbon that you found grounding out your spark plug might have come from the top of your intake valves. Mine were gross, but I don't have a borescope to prove it, just looking down the intake ports with the manifold removed. I did the valve stem seal replacement, and my plugs started to not have major oil burn showing. Deposits on top of the valve prevent a smooth flow of air on the intake stroke, worse at high rpm. If you are low in vac, then it throws everything else off. It took a while to get power out of my sitting-in-the-field 2F, but now it works well, now. Nothing but 86 or 88 octane Chevron to do the cleaning, as I don't trust the stuff in the bottle around soft parts.
The fuel inlet screen on the carb was cleaned when you replaced your fuel filter?
The fuel inlet screen on the carb was cleaned when you replaced your fuel filter?
