75' FJ40 Parked for 20+ years. (1 Viewer)

[SteveH]

Let me just say that although I have never used a Toyota pto winch I believe it's absolutely imperative that you don't pull at extreme angles, or at least, if you do for the love of all things DO NOT let the cable wind OFF the drum.

Given the design of the OEM roller fairlead, why would the winch care about an 'extreme angle' pull?

 

[Braden620]

Let me just say that although I have never used a Toyota pto winch I believe it's absolutely imperative that you don't pull at extreme angles, or at least, if you do for the love of all things DO NOT let the cable wind OFF the drum.

Given the design of the OEM roller fairlead, why would the winch care about an 'extreme angle' pull?

Because the tension in the cable would have a far greater perpendicular component of force causing a buildup of cable on the extreme end of the drum leading to the cable overfilling the drum and damaging the gear casing as shown in the picture. But the actual root cause is the ignorant operator. Just like guns and shootings or spoons and fat people.

 

[Braden620]

No major updates, been doing a lot of parts research and some ordering. Have been slowly working on the winch project. The disassembly has not been easy. The rollers for the fairleads can be pressed apart with persuasion. I really don't think a long term penetrant soak would do much for these. The blue wrench and the ole communist hazard fraught press did the trick.

 

[Braden620]

Got another winch head torn down today. Just need to disassemble the dog clutch levers and I will be ready to blast everything. Guess I'm rebuilding 2 winches at this point. Might as well. Will have one ready for the next rig.

 

[Braden620]

Got a few parts blasted yesterday and coated them today. Everything is getting a coat of zinc primer before the UV stable polyester topcoat. I went ahead and did the hitch in a 3 stage, 2 topcoats for maximum longevity. Still waiting on a bunch of parts to come in. I did get a shipment from @Racer65, thanks. Can't wait to swap my top out and fix the rattling front windows.

 

[Braden620]

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[Braden620]

I have been working like a mad man on the winch project. If it were just a clean up and re seal this could be done in a day. For a complete resto with powder coat, bearings, seals and everything its a whole lot more. Most of the time is spent prepping parts, sandblasting, de greasing, etc. I have a few more parts on the winch head to powder coat before I can assemble. I will post some pictures once everything is completed. Then comes the pto gearbox.

Yesterday, I replaced the front window channel runs and inner and outer felt squeegees with new OEM. The channel runs were from City Racer and fit really well with the OEM lower felts. I do have some corrosion on the bottom of the doors. Cleaned all the funk and dead bugs out and coated the insides of the doors with fluid film to prevent further corrosion. Took a test drive and it was weird without the windows rattling. The drivers side regulator was broken where the large spring hooks on. I welded a piece of steel back in place and all is well. Its nice to be able to roll the windows up and down easily and without risking damage to the glass.

 

[Braden620]

Took the kiddos out for a ride the other night and went through some pretty rough terrain. Came out with no damage and without getting stuck so that was good. My 4 year old daughter had such a good time my right ear is mostly deaf now.

 

[Braden620]

Installed an ambulance door striker from City Racer as well as both door catches (OEM). My back door rattles are about 90% gone. I did my best not to break the door catch hardware but unfortunately I had to drill all 4 of them and peel out the remaining threads with a pick. This took about half a day. Well worth it in the end but a PITA at the time.

Below you will see the spring I used for the PTO winch dog clutch lever. It is from Sodemann, #22450 (stainless). It has a slightly larger k value than the OEM spring and is just long enough to provide a slight holding force to keep the handle from rattling when on the trail. The PTO project has slowed down some but I am still making progress. Once the winch head is complete the rest of the project should accelerate. I likely wont get the PTO gear installed until spring. My plan is to have everything else ready when the time comes for the install.

I ordered and received some "Vegas Gold" powder coat from Prismatic. I will be coating the mirror arms and bumperettes in this close to OEM color.

And lastly, a few new tools for the garage. The TIG should perform nicely to finish brazing up to PTO gearbox. I previously brazed the box with low fuming bronze using a torch but ended up with a few pinholes. I should be able to wet those in easily with a good AC arc.

 

[Goldbug]

Where'd you get the trailer hitch? Please don't say it came with it...

 

[Braden620]

Where'd you get the trailer hitch? Please don't say it came with it...

I found it still bolted to the rear of a partial FJ40 frame in my personal cruiser boneyard. I don't know where it came from originally. I sandblasted it and used for a test piece for powder coating.

 

[Catching Neutral]

I have been working like a mad man on the winch project. If it were just a clean up and re seal this could be done in a day. For a complete resto with powder coat, bearings, seals and everything its a whole lot more. Most of the time is spent prepping parts, sandblasting, de greasing, etc. I have a few more parts on the winch head to powder coat before I can assemble. I will post some pictures once everything is completed. Then comes the pto gearbox.

Yesterday, I replaced the front window channel runs and inner and outer felt squeegees with new OEM. The channel runs were from City Racer and fit really well with the OEM lower felts. I do have some corrosion on the bottom of the doors. Cleaned all the funk and dead bugs out and coated the insides of the doors with fluid film to prevent further corrosion. Took a test drive and it was weird without the windows rattling. The drivers side regulator was broken where the large spring hooks on. I welded a piece of steel back in place and all is well. Its nice to be able to roll the windows up and down easily and without risking damage to the glass.

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Can you share the part numbers for parts you used to redo doors..?

 

[Braden620]

Can you share the part numbers for parts you used to redo doors..?

Absolutely...

68160-90300​	Weatherstrip Assembly F​	$19.28​	2​	$38.56​
68180-90300​	Weatherstrip Assembly F​	$22.63​	2​	$45.26​
67434-90300​	Run Front Door Glass​	$9.52​	4​	$38.08​

The long channel runs were city racer

Front Door Glass Run for '75 to '84 Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ45 Without Vent Window - Set of 2

Set of front door glass run. Same part fits both LH and RH sides. This is the updated version without the chrome trim. Fits '75 to '84 FJ40 and FJ45 without vent windows. Same quality as OEM part # 68105-90302. Price is for a set of 2.

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[Catching Neutral]

@Braden620 ...thank you. I love what you doing with your 40. Keep up the good work

 

[Braden620]

Updates are coming.
Projects currently up are...

1. Steering slop/issues.
2. Top replacement.
3. Winch Install.
4. Suspension revamp.
5. Door and window seals.
6. Engine bay cleanup

I got all the old steering components torn apart yesterday with relative ease. Getting a tie rod/pitman arm puller today so I can rebuild the center arm and replace a leaky steering box seal. Cleaning things up and doing some powder coating while waiting for parts. A few before pictures.

 

[Braden620]

Sneak Peek.

 

[Goldbug]

I'll be watching closely, I've got lots of steering slop too, and addressing it is on my list. If you're doing door seals like the rubber around the outside, my 2 cents is definitely spend the extra bucks to go OEM. I went with a well known aftermarket vendor and they are very stiff, making it hard to close the door and creating air gaps. I'll be pulling soon to replace them with OEM.

Looking great though, nice work!

 

[brian]

I'll be pulling soon to replace them with OEM.

Looking great though, nice work!

you'll not be disappointed

 

[Braden620]

Got a lot done this weekend. Powder coated all of the steering components, minus the tie rod ends. All parts get a zinc primer for added corrosion protection. It takes a lot longer when using the primer because you have to shoot the primer, get the parts in the oven, gel the powder out, pull parts, let cool, shoot top coat, back in oven and then the full cure. The results are worth the extra time.
Today I changed all the shackles/pins and bushings. The Man a Fre/Karsons shackles aren't the nicest but for now they are much better than what I had. I will upgrade the shackles again when I do a lift. I suppose I got lucky that my spring eyelets weren't too corroded. A shot of PB blaster on everything and all of the bushings came out with no fuss. Lining the leaf spring eye and frame mount up to get the greaseable pins in was a pain.
While I wait on parts to arrive I will be partially assembling the winch head and fabbing up some reinforcement for the winch head gearbox. I'm not interested in breaking the mounting ears off, especially after all the work done brazing the box and powder coating.

 

[MexicanNewby]

Amazing thread and incredibly informative. I am impressed by your resourcefulness. Bravo!