Builds 74 Pig Build

[OinkOinker]

i think you always start your weld on the thicker material....

 

[DesertLake]

That's what I thought too, but I can't figure out how to make the puddle go up?

 

[PabloCruise]

Proper seam sealer would have kept all the dirt out, but it wouldn't have kept out the water from the top since my mom used to hose the floor out once in a while...

You are re-doing your Mom's old Pig? Very cool!!!

 

[1973Guppie]

No, but the bottom will be thicker stuff than the original. If I can make this work the way I think it is going to work, the nut will sit where the X is now, and the bolt will pass up through the mount and the bottom of the new box. It will not penetrate the floor. I've got to replace that section of the floor anyways, if the bolt doesn't go through there I won't need to reinforce a new hole.

IMO, I would put some type of bracing directly beneath where the body bolts go through. I simply used some sheet metal and made a few braces and welded them in on the inside. It will help make sure that area does not collapse at all.

Noah

 

[DesertLake]

Yeah, it has been in th family since I was 3 or 4 years old. It was always the vacation car, and sometimes the grocery getter. My mom may have put more miles on it than my dad. To be fair, she probably only hosed it out 3 or 4 times. It blew heater hoses in the interior at least as often.

 

[OinkOinker]

That's what I thought too, but I can't figure out how to make the puddle go up?

im having a bit of trouble here working out which welds your talking about is it the ones in the yellow box on the left (ill call those 'vertical') or the ones in the red box across the top (ill call those the 'overhead')??

 

[DesertLake]

Overhead - red box. Thanks, sometimes I forget my english. Too bad I don't know any other languages...

Last night one of the guys in the local club pointed out that I could drill a hole in the floor large enough for the bolt head, and just drop the bolt from the top, use a rubber plug to seal the hole. That eliminates the wrench clearance issue.

 

[OinkOinker]

then, id drill out the old spot welds with a 6-8mm (1/4"-5/16" i think??) then leave the new bodymount fold solid and just weld from inside the cab, start your weld on the new body mount, build the bead up till the weld has filled the hole.... This is just my back-yard 'booty fab' solution..... not super clean but it WILL get it done

why dont you weld a nut on top of that plate?? and then you can do away with the nuts and wrenches on the top of the mount?? screw it upwards thru the chassis-bush-bodymount-welded nut on top of new plate????

my ingrish isnt to good when i read it back eeeva. i have to re read my posts over and over and ask if i have got everything that is happening inside my head in the post so the readers understand what im on about. i do my of my 'Mudding' at work on night shift so im not always thinking clearly. ie its 1:30 am at the moment......

 

[DesertLake]

re plug welds on top -- holy hell you are the second person in as many days to point out what should have been obvious. Thanks!

I'm avoiding welding the nut on becuse I still need a little wiggle room for alignment. One of the guys pointed out last night that with the bolt inverted (my original plan) there is a risk of losing all of the expensive parts in the mount if it backs off, but with the nut on bottom if I lose the nut i keep the expensive bits.

 

[OinkOinker]

well ill give myself a pat on the back.. haha. thats why we have this interweb thingo i guess. another point of view is always handy.

nut to the bottom is in the industry the 'proper' way for that reason.... but meh, put a nylock nut ontop (couldnt weld it then) it 'shouldnt' come off

 

[DesertLake]

frickin laser beams

you know i have one simple request, and that is to have cutoff air tools with frickin laser beams on their guards...

 

[DesertLake]

I cut out the rotten part of the floor, and the kick panel, and find this. What do I do with the rust between layers inside the kick panel?

 

[DesertLake]

Stopped by SOR while I was in Cali...

SOR Landcruiser collection
check out the 6x6! 3 Drivelines!

 

[1973Guppie]

you could use weldable primer between those seams, If you are spot welding them back together I zerorusted them and then cleaned off where I knew I was going to be spot welding before putting them back together. Then I used a cavity was to drip down into the seam after it was all back together.

Noah

 

[DesertLake]

you could use weldable primer between those seams, If you are spot welding them back together I zerorusted them and then cleaned off where I knew I was going to be spot welding before putting them back together. Then I used a cavity was to drip down into the seam after it was all back together.

Noah

It's kind of hard to tell in that shot, but my real concern is the rust between two layers that I wasn't planning to disassemble. I guess drizzle a lot of zerorust or similar between the layers, then try to drip the primer in?

Thanks!

 

[1973Guppie]

Heavy Duty Anti Rust Aerosol Black

use this stuff, it is like wax and drips into seams like you are talking about, great stuff. I would use it though when you are done completely with an area.

 

[DesertLake]

Ugh. Worked on everything but what I want to work on for 3 months.

Thinking about chopping the rockers instead of using the IPORs, has anybody documented this?
Lots of pictures, small words? Point me to your thread, I couldn't find quite what I was looking for by searching.

 

[DesertLake]

Getting back to business...

For too many reasons I got nothing done from november to today.

It looks like I can make the open body mount simpler than I thought. I finished the mockup today. The finished product will probably have roughly 1/8" walls and possibly a 3/16" bottom. I really wish I could afford the money and space for a corner shear like the one I used for this...

Not pictured is the new floor metal - still in progress.

In this design, there will be a largish hole in the floorpan through which a socket can be used to drive the body mount bolt. This hole will have a rubber plug. The bolt head will work against my new bottom plate instead of the floor pan.

 

[DesertLake]

Progress!

For the first time I added metal instead of removed it.

Kick panel done, hopefully I'll have the driver's side floor back in by the end of the weekend.
I'll need another weekend to finish the body mount.

Ugliest welds ever, that's why I'm learning on the floor...

 

[Uncle Grumpy]

...Ugliest welds ever...

Ditto, but I'm getting really good at grinding!