Build 74 Pig Build

[Radd Cruisers]

Wow, Bretts the demi god of FJ40 and FJ55 information.



Great build, background history makes it even cooler.

Rob

 

[DesertLake]

WD-40 dissolves the small bits of floor insulation left after the dry ice treatment, but its a slow process.

Tried dry ice on the roof tonight to remove the roof insulation glue with the plastic chisel, it seemed to help a little but I'm not sure it's worth it.

Sorry 'bout the focus.

 

[chicago]

At least youre FINALLY doing SOMETHING to that rat trap!
Glad to see some progress happeneing.

That is a GREAT idea with the dry ice BTW!

Chicago

 

[DesertLake]

Keep encouraging me like that, and next thing you know you'll be over here welding!

 

[DesertLake]

Anybody have any roof braces left over from a roofectomy? I'm thinking about adding 3 more braces, and maybe one or two dome lights while I'm at it. And still considering the FRP headliner idea...

 

[romegadave]

Great to see you making progress. I always laugh at myself when I see your avatar (This is the only forum I've ever been on).When I first saw it I thought "look at this guy driving around on the farm without any doors---he doesn't give a ****....he's putting that pig to work!!!" LOL...little did I know that you were just on hiatus!! (naive)Dave

*on a serious note thanks for the posts....I have some door issues myself that need tending to and will inspect the interior roof asap.

 

[DesertLake]

Yep, taking them apart is the easy bit. What I should be doing is planning out and acquiring the drive train, etc...but I'm broke so might as well inspect and cut out rust. I also can't stand scraping, sanding, any of that repetitive boring sh-tuff, so procrastination and general laziness have slowed me down a bit.

As for the doors, I think I've figured out how I want to weld the patches where the hinges mount, but my welding skills have only just graduated from ignorant and flat out dangerous to just plain incompetent. In other words, just enough to do floor patches.

 

[John Smith]

I have found that Ronson liquid lighter fluid lifts the tar residue very easily.

 

[DesertLake]

I'll give that a shot, I already had some on hand to try to remove the roof insulation glue.

 

[PabloCruise]

And still considering the FRP headliner idea...

What is this "FRP Headliner" you speak of?

 

[DesertLake]

Nothing more than an idea for now...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-pig-preservation-society/239434-frp-cargo-panels-headliner.html

and I'm not sure it's a good idea. It may be a lot noisier than the fabric headliner. Since I don't have the cash to do anything about it for now, I can dream up all kinds of ideas and not get in too much trouble.

 

[DesertLake]

I'm trying to remove the front two rusted body bolts...not sure if I'm doing this right.
I've removed the bottom nut and lockwasher, but the bolt still won't budge.
How does this work? Is the bolt threaded into something?
I've tried an impact driver, air impact driver, and breaker bar. It's going to soak in liquid wrench tonight.

 

[LC_Hamma]

You'll need to heat up the threads of the bolt till it's red. There's a sleeve in there so don't worry about melting the rubber body mount. Spray some penetrating oil immediately after to cool. Loosening up the other front body mounts, under the floorpan, will let you work them loose & that'll break the bound up rusted bolts. BTDT

 

[DesertLake]

I should have said front bolts under the floorpan - the ones I'm trying to remove are forward of the driver's seat.

So far no luck, and I've now rounded the head a bit. I see a lot of rust on the threads, I think the bolt is now part of the sleeve. I also tried grinding a notch in the head and using my impact flathead, which is now shattered. The head had corroded to the point that a metric socket was too loose a fit, although when I heat it it almost fits a standard socket.

The first question I should have asked was, are these bolts replaceable? I see SOR has the rubber but not the hardware.

Next, assuming I've pretty much destroyed the bolt I have and it's still stuck, how should I remove it?

 

[LC_Hamma]

Grind/ cut off the bolt head & spray a ton of penetrant down the sides of the bolt. Lift up the body a little to try & seperate. Knock out the bolt from the top. Those body mounts were packed w/ dirt on mine. I just cut both sides out & refabbed new one's that are DRAINABLE. You think this area is wait till you get to the rear hinges on the tailgate.

 

[DesertLake]

Thanks! I got the tailgate off no problem, but getting the torsion bar back in is going to be a bear I know. I used the Sears impact driver to remove the bolts - but I gather my rust situation was better than most.

 

[DesertLake]

Man, I'm going slow.

Regarding the bolts, I just needed a bigger BFH. I bought the new bushings from SOR, but I don't understand how the lower bushing fits unless I grind some metal off the frame. I'll figure it out later.

and I removed the inner fenders a few weeks ago.
This weekend I cut off the custom radiator mounts.
was working with her lathe off to the right, I failed to notice the shower of sparks my grinder was making landing on her.

 

[DesertLake]

Backing up a weekend...

a little child labor never hurt anybody.

 

[pattho]

let me know when you work on this guy

I been wanting a pig to rebuild and will trade some labor for the experience!

 

[DesertLake]

I will definitely need a hand when I pull the engine and transmission...I don't know what I'm doing either so wear steel toes.