Really nice clean work !!!
Builds ‘68 M715, AKA "Smokey" (Can I post this Jeep on MUD?) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rock40
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- Thread starter
- #322
Thx! they say the devil is in the fine details
Looking at your rear coilovers , they look like they are pretty close to 90 degrees at ride height. I have had issues with setups like that . When the outside of the coilover in relation to the axle becomes less than 90 degrees, the spring rate changes dramatically. I have found most of those setups to be unstable at speed and unpredictable off road resulting in unloading and all sorts of other weird characteristics. I have fixed those problems by bringing the tops together, that generally alleviates most of the issues completely vertical coilovers present. It doesn't look easy to fix at this point in your build. I am interested to see if you encounter the handling problems I have with that type of setup.
Generally that is why when you see a coilover in the rear of a pickup , the towers are in the way of most stuff you put in the box.
Very nice fab work and your body work looks top notch. Looking forward to seeing it finished.
Generally that is why when you see a coilover in the rear of a pickup , the towers are in the way of most stuff you put in the box.
Very nice fab work and your body work looks top notch. Looking forward to seeing it finished.
Awesome to see some updates! I have one question that is pure curiosity and not criticism; in the 2nd picture from post #312 (inner view of passenger frame rail I think) is there any reason beyond aesthetics to add more weld to your frame rail splice and smooth it out?
- Thread starter
- #327
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Hmmm. That is fairly concerning, I don’t doubt your experience.
You’re correct also that in retaining the stock frame, it’s essentially impossible to move the top of the coils inward. They are tipped in somewhat, but not a lot
I guess at this point time will tell. I will be running a rear sway bar, it may also require some coil tuning also perhaps.
The input is certainly appreciated, it’s the first I’ve heard of that
Hmmm. That is fairly concerning, I don’t doubt your experience.
You’re correct also that in retaining the stock frame, it’s essentially impossible to move the top of the coils inward. They are tipped in somewhat, but not a lot
I guess at this point time will tell. I will be running a rear sway bar, it may also require some coil tuning also perhaps.
The input is certainly appreciated, it’s the first I’ve heard of that
- Thread starter
- #328
Ahh. That pic is actually deceiving. There isn’t a frame spice there in reality, that was me having to cut up different chunks of steel to plate the inner frame. Good eye tho! A spice would definitely get plated
- Thread starter
- #329
That’s awesome! They are so rare to see!!
- Thread starter
- #330
So after a bit of panic about the potential stability, I went and took a bunch of additional rear coil measurements. I “think” it’s ok, from what I read on Pirate, the goal is to not let the rear coil swing past 90 degrees on full compression.
Angle iron is representing the coil. I still have 5.5 degrees positive angle on the coil before hitting 90 degrees, should be ok
Angle iron is representing the coil. I still have 5.5 degrees positive angle on the coil before hitting 90 degrees, should be ok
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- Thread starter
- #331
Here’s an example of how rounded out the old bed mounts were. That’s a 1/2” bolt inside of it
Filled it in
Passenger side bed mount modified
Filled it in
Passenger side bed mount modified
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- Thread starter
- #332
Sway bar layout…
Bars have 3 adjustment holes offset 1” from each other
Green angle iron represents the torsion bar layout
TIG wire is representing the arm. They have 5 degree kick out
Bars have 3 adjustment holes offset 1” from each other
Green angle iron represents the torsion bar layout
TIG wire is representing the arm. They have 5 degree kick out
- Thread starter
- #333
Hammered out the main sway bar mounts today
Cardboard layout. This frame is SO fun to work on. Seems like nothing is “quite” the same side to side, not even the frame bends, oh well
Using 1/4” plate, decided to just notch it for the tubing like this, should be PLENTY of weld surface
Love the nice clean plasma cuts
Driver and passenger side complete
Bar and mounts sit in the frame like this. Still needs gussets, welding, etc but you get the idea where it’s going
Cardboard layout. This frame is SO fun to work on. Seems like nothing is “quite” the same side to side, not even the frame bends, oh well
Using 1/4” plate, decided to just notch it for the tubing like this, should be PLENTY of weld surface
Love the nice clean plasma cuts
Driver and passenger side complete
Bar and mounts sit in the frame like this. Still needs gussets, welding, etc but you get the idea where it’s going
- Thread starter
- #335
Burned out some gussets for the sway bar mount
Welded in
Welded in
- Thread starter
- #336
Finished out the rear frame extensions. The stock ones were to beat to hell and wouldn’t work with the LED’s. These were bent to match the odd contour of the stock frame
Going to use the oval LED on top instead of the round one below
Plasma cut and sanded
Going to use the oval LED on top instead of the round one below
Plasma cut and sanded
EWheeler
GOLD Star
Youre right in that it will probably be fine, but the angle youre actually worried about is this:
If this angle gets less than 90 degrees on the outside, your effective spring rate can become regressive and not progressive as the coilover is compressed and suspension articulates.
At full bump on articulation side to side, its ideal to have this angle on the outside of the coilover relative to centerline through the axle equal to or greater than 90 degrees.
Its great to see you posting your work again, the work you did on Jason’s 40 was a blast to watch! Keep on it!
- Thread starter
- #339
Ahhh! That makes so much more sense, A picture is worth 1k words. The input is certainly appreciated, my hope is that the heavy sway bar will be adequate to control any roll
- Thread starter
- #340
Sorted out the upper radiator hose. As you can see, the angles were terrible and it seems that GM used an oddball 3 bolt thermostat flange specific to the 8.1 engine. I couldn’t find any aftermarket swivel options so…
Cut this guy apart
Rotated and welded back together
Went to the auto parts store and searched through all the hoses. Found a Gates 22641 which oddly enough fits a Cherokee with the 4.7 engine. Keeping it Jeep! Haha!
Cut this guy apart
Rotated and welded back together
Went to the auto parts store and searched through all the hoses. Found a Gates 22641 which oddly enough fits a Cherokee with the 4.7 engine. Keeping it Jeep! Haha!
