67 FJ40 Overhaul (Burned Up...)

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Been dragging my knuckles, should be back at it shortly.
 
Bamm !!
knuckle.webp



Signed...
Trogg
 
Perfect. Just the laugh I needed after dragging my ass through a marathon weekend of home improvement projects.

Carry on.
 
I am so jealous about your shop, in mine you have to constantly move parts out of the way to work, not heated and full of holes for mosquitoes,
black flies, horse flies, red squirrels and weasels to visit.
I just put in a temporary rear sill using 2" x 2" square tubing. First of all I should have used 2 1/2" x 2 1/2", it was really a pita to install but a good way to find all the other tub problems; if I restored the steel tub with new panels and time welding, it will cost more than getting a Aqualu 3/4 aluminum tub. The other problem that I didn't think about was after the sill was replaced the tailgate would not fit because the top of the rear quarters had spread apart:bang:. I had to make a temporary out of plywood. Good luck and have fun!
 
Hey CHCP, be careful about knocking squirrels as pets. I recently heard a blurb on radio about a guy who arrived home to find that the house had been broken into. When the deputy was looking things over, and taking the statement, the home owners pet kept running all over, and was very agitated. A short time later the deputy apprehended the thief. When asked about all the cuts and apparent bites around his hands the perp stated that the squirrel caused all the cuts and bites. Yes!!! The home owners pet was a squirrel!!

Don
 
I am so jealous about your shop, in mine you have to constantly move parts out of the way to work, not heated and full of holes for mosquitoes,
black flies, horse flies, red squirrels and weasels to visit.
I just put in a temporary rear sill using 2" x 2" square tubing. First of all I should have used 2 1/2" x 2 1/2", it was really a pita to install but a good way to find all the other tub problems; if I restored the steel tub with new panels and time welding, it will cost more than getting a Aqualu 3/4 aluminum tub. The other problem that I didn't think about was after the sill was replaced the tailgate would not fit because the top of the rear quarters had spread apart:bang:. I had to make a temporary out of plywood. Good luck and have fun!
I am fortunate that I don't have those critters running around. The weasel sounds interesting tho.
My filler piece is already made up, so I just have to finish the patches and install it. But I thought it would be all good idea to replace the rear fenders too, so I went out and bought a new set. They oughta be a challenge to install.
 
I had diamond plate covers on my rear quarters, I think I remember that the quarters were good at the time but after taking the covers off I found no bottom metal left in both quarters, I don't know if its such a good idea to install those covers, got them from coolcruisers.
I'd have to replace the rear sill again, both rear quarters, both wheel wells, both inner and outer door sills and a tub floor. It may reduce the value of my cruiser but I'm going to buy a Aqualu 3/4 aluminum tub in a couple of months and do it all at one time. I am really surprised on the cost of an aluminum tailgate, I guess for now I'll get the tailgate bolt on plate. What kind of welder are you using?
 
These things can be alot of work. I have a miller 175 (220v). A hf tig welder and a hypertherm plasma cutter.





Kevin
 
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Kevin-wow great work, following this build now!
 
I don't have 220vac available, I was wondering how well a Hobart or Lincoln 140 mig with gas works on cruiser bodies.
 
I don't have 220vac available, I was wondering how well a Hobart or Lincoln 140 mig with gas works on cruiser bodies.
Generally when working with lighter weight material a 110 V welder with shielding gas is excellent. I don't know how much experience you have working with sheet metal, but being in a hurry is a recipe for disaster. Take your time. Clean/sand everything, outside and inside(if you can). Get the corresponding thickness of metal and tack away, make sure you have a nice gap (around a pencil lead thickness) between the patch and the body. Let the weld bond the 2 together. Take your time. I like to use copper backing behind each of my welds (see picture below, its on amazon). Did I mention to take your time ? If you tack weld on each side of the patch, hammer it out and lightly sand/even the welds out, not to aggressive! Leave the body and patch metal alone. When you can comfortably touch the area with your hand you are ready to weld again. Repeat this cycle until done. There is a lot of info and more experienced people out there, but this worked for me.

And remember to take your time!

Kevin

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I don't have 220vac available, I was wondering how well a Hobart or Lincoln 140 mig with gas works on cruiser bodies.
Another tip...when you buy your patch material, buy enough to practice on. Cut a piece out and weld it back in. If you use a thin cutoff disc that will give you a perfect fitting patch to weld in.
 
experience? none, but I've got to learn this year. I think it's a pre-requisite in owning a cruiser. Tired of using fasteners all the time.
I've seen the use of copper to reduce blowouts and it would be a good idea for me as well as taking my time. stitch welding.
 
experience? none, but I've got to learn this year. I think it's a pre-requisite in owning a cruiser. Tired of using fasteners all the time.
I've seen the use of copper to reduce blowouts and it would be a good idea for me as well as taking my time. stitch welding.
That jig is great , its very easy to move around. If you have access to the backside, keeping the welds knocked down allows the copper backing jig to work better. And its also excellent when patching holes. But what is really going to help you is practicing before committing to the real thing. Maybe a buddy has a smashed up fender etc.

Kevin
 
Made up a bracket for the brake booster and whittled on the firewall rib to accommodate it.
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The engine is out of the car, but you'll want to make sure the protruding booster + the master cylinder does not interfere with the carb and/or air cleaner. Also, the single diaphragm booster is designed for drum brakes. It will work for disc brakes, but is somewhat marginal.

An alternative way to install the booster is to cut the firewall rib. Check out this thread:
Adding a new Brake Booster to an early Non-booster FJ-40
 

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