60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion

[dbbowen]

That kit allowed me to run a double on my 40. It worked fantastic

The link has a single joint on there, were you able to use a double cardian on that? What joints did it use? 1310?

Good info on what problem a DC shaft actually solves here- DC-Shaft pinion check - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dc-shaft-pinion-check.781635/#post-8871490

It's quite possible it would only make things worse. Those housings are so amazing.

Its been a little while since ive been under there measuring, but If im thinking about it right, as you correct the caster to be more positive it points the pinion down more. Just eyeballing it with my front driveshaft still on there, my front pinion is pointed pretty much straight at my Tcase front output, but still a smidge above it. I think if i increase the caster by a degree or two it will be pointed dead on at the tcase output and would be perfect for a DC shaft. My only issue is I dont have very much room for one.

I had to run front and rear DC shafts on my FJ40 and my firstgen 4runner and were able to get them set up without vibration, but those had way more room to work with

Toyota uses 2 styles of DC joints. Inside clip and outside clip. The inside clip has larger bearing caps which means a larger overall size and strength. That is the ones I use for my shafts. It’s also the one used on Tundras. I can custom make any length.

If you had one laying around, any chance you could pull a measurement off of one? I was thinking of the mini truck ones or the mid gen tacomas or something, didnt know about the tundra ones. Ive got some room but not much. These photos are with a stock mini truck ujoint shaft. Theres an oil pan out there that has the corner closest to the driveshaft notched out so i can buy some room with that, and the exhaust can always be modified too

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Well.... probably typical but just for reference.....had these how I believe they are designed, A spring was passenger, B was driver. Easily 3/8" different in height just in swapping them out. These are OME 2850s up front. My total cruiser lean is 3/4" to the driver's side. Maybe swapping will fix it......good news is I could remove the coils without removing shocks at all!

 

[landtank]

I made a mistake in the earlier post, the Tundras use the smaller DC joint (outside clip) joints.

There are only 2 versions and used interchangeably on the platforms.

The larger stronger Joint has a DC diameter of 4",

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Now they are only 1/4" different in height but need to drive it.....rare snow happening here today!

 

[landtank]

I took this picture to show that the DC joint is about the same length at the since cardon joint and looks to be behind the oil pan. The contact would be with the tubing I think.

 

[dbbowen]

I made a mistake in the earlier post, the Tundras use the smaller DC joint (outside clip) joints.

There are only 2 versions and used interchangeably on the platforms.

The larger stronger Joint has a DC diameter of 4",

Oh man thanks for the clarification. Adding your post to my to do list.

I took this picture to show that the DC joint is about the same length at the since cardon joint and looks to be behind the oil pan. The contact would be with the tubing I think.View attachment 3842408

Oh that doesn’t look TOO bad. I think with the notched trans pan this might work. I figured I was just going to have to deal with the vibrations but this might be the solution!

 

[dbbowen]

Well.... probably typical but just for reference.....had these how I believe they are designed, A spring was passenger, B was driver. Easily 3/8" different in height just in swapping them out. These are OME 2850s up front. My total cruiser lean is 3/4" to the driver's side. Maybe swapping will fix it......good news is I could remove the coils without removing shocks at all!

View attachment 3842387

View attachment 3842388

View attachment 3842389

Did the same on mine. On the front and back haha

 

[landtank]

If you take the existing drive shaft out and install it backwards you should get a good idea of how tight things will be with the tubing next to the pan.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Now they are only 1/4" different in height but need to drive it.....rare snow happening here today!

Haha yep we got some down here in Currituck too

 

[4runner2FJ60]

@tmxmotorsports I know I keep saying it, but one of these days I'll get down there! Still got your number.

We got 12" at least up here! Epic

 

[tmxmotorsports]

We didn't get that much maybe like 8 inches. Definitely just hit me up.

 

[Nad Aitch]

Run 7.5 on my 60 UTE and 9 on my 6x6. Built 5 into the custom axles.

Did you relocate the tie rod or other brackets?
I figure a 5 degree c&t would put the tie rod into the radius arm.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Did you relocate the tie rod or other brackets?
I figure a 5 degree c&t would put the tie rod into the radius arm.

Nope -- Hi-steer no issues.

 

[Nad Aitch]

Nope -- Hi-steer no issues.

Sorry to thread jack we might need a new thread for these- are you doing your own high steer with a slee like setup? Doesn't that mean you have to relocate the panhard? You need to give us a full rundown on this

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Decided to try out the 2850J coils up front. I like rake but too much is not good. This looks almost perfect to me. Still drives great. Gonna keep the 80 wheels for now.

 

[Broski]

Decided to try out the 2850J coils up front. I like rake but too much is not good. This looks almost perfect to me. Still drives great. Gonna keep the 80 wheels for now.

View attachment 3862531

80 wheels look great, are super strong & high quality !
I wish I didn’t let mine go.

 

[dbbowen]

So I had the OME 2862 FJ80 rear stock height springs on my truck since it was axle swapped and theyve been great.... but i put on a rear bumper and a spare tire on the back and was sagged out pretty bad. Turns out the OME 2866 for the 100 series is the same height unloaded, but with thicker coils and a higher spring rate. Basically a heavy version of the 2862. Tossed them on today and went from slightly lower than level in the rear to getting my 1 inch of rake back. Not too shabby for a complete shot in the dark, throw parts at it situation.

The back is a hair high, but once the springs settle in about a month they should be pretty much perfect


Before, 2862 and rear sagging

After, 2866 back to having a nice rake

 

[4runner2FJ60]

@dbbowen nice! It's SO much easier to change out coils than leafs.....at least in the front. Not including minor tuning.

 

[dbbowen]

@dbbowen nice! It's SO much easier to change out coils than leafs.....at least in the front. Not including minor tuning.

The rears are even easier than the front to swap out. undo the lower shock bolts and the sway bar and lower the axle pretty much!

 

[dbbowen]

I was chatting with @4runner2FJ60 today about shock tuning with the dobinsons MRR shocks and figured I’d share where I’m at.

Currently my daily driver street setup suspension is running better than it ever has. Super comfortable over bumps. Small chatter bumps are completely absorbed but good support over speed humps and jumping small railroad tracks. No body roll. I’ve got compression completely dialed but I’d like to experiment with backing off of the rebound a few clicks and adding some more HSC for those after bounces after you go over big bumps. Right now I get 1-2 bounces after I hit the big speed humps at low speeds like 20mph but I think I can get it to not bounce at all and just return to ride height with the right settings. When I hit the speed humps at 40-50 there’s literally no bounce at all lol


Front springs OME 2850
Rear springs OME 2866

Front shocks-
HSC - 4 clicks from full open
LSC - 1 click from full open
Rebound - 1 click from full closed

Rear shocks
HSC - 5 clicks from full open
LSC - 2 clicks from full open
Rebound - full closed