4x4 labs rear bumper DIY -- What have you done to customize it? (1 Viewer)

[LFD2037]

Here you go

Innovative Components AI1/2-1.5-B-TR6 1/2" tip, 2.25" Rounded T knob Spring Loaded Pop Pin, with 1.50" weld on barrel included: Hardware Knobs: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

What did you do about the pin sliding on the bumper and scraping up the paint before/after it was in the hole?

 

[jcardona1]

What did you do about the pin sliding on the bumper and scraping up the paint before/after it was in the hole?

I just let it scrape the paint off. Made a nice clean mark throughout the pivot point. My old Huston Fab bumper had a nice thin piece of aluminum for the pin to ride on. Was planning on making the same but I got lazy.

 

[2fpower]

With the power of those 4x4labs shocks, I have not felt like that pin to hold it open would be needed... after a few years and the shocks having lost some power I can see it be helpful; however it does change this to a two hand operation to shut the gate.

I had those pins on my Slee rear bumper (which did not have the gas filled shock) and hated them at times, when I had an armful of things.

Having said all that, I am trying to work out the design for a single arm swing out for a 40 series and how to lock it in place. I have seen you @jcardona1 set up with two clamps, but I am trying to keep it simple.

here is what 4x4 labs does, which seems bulky and leaves a chunk of metal sitting up on the bumper when open.

This looks bulletproof. (note there is a pulling type clamp on the end that is not in the picture.

This mechanically is perfect, although I would want a locking style pull clamp. I just don't care for the angle iron piece that is left on the bumper when open.

Which leads me back to a single clamp working in the vertical, but I wonder about using this latch pin to give a more solid stop. SO something like this one, but then weld the pin at the end of it.

 

[LFD2037]

I'm trying a good, clean way to mount my clamp for a single swing as well. Post up when you figure it out!

 

[pandathrust]

Mounting the latch vertically has been done by tons of people already and there are many ways to do it. All you need to make it work is some sort of hook that will catch the u-bolt from the latch. Luke's destaco latches that he sells come with the weld on type which you can easily grind to the contour of the bumper shell and weld on. The only problem is that I don't think his are locking, the point is that you just need the hook thing to make it work. Or make your own like I did with 2 1/4" thick hooks and weld them on. It all works as long as there is a sturdy weld and the latch is set up correctly and tight.

 

[2fpower]

Thanks for posting @pandathrust , I have referenced your build several times. I must admit that I am type A personality, and want to overkill this. I am leaning to do exactly what you have, and add the spring loaded drop pin for additional lateral support.

FYI, Luke's at 4x4labs are locking clamps, model 375-R

 

[2fpower]

Speaking of, anyone have a good source for the 375-R clamp? about $400 for 5 of them on ebay ($80 each), best price I have found for a single is $120 shipped. MSC price is not bad; however, I don't have my account rep there anymore.

 

[ERG80]

The thread was helpful when I was planning my build so here's my contribution
Added some cut outs for flush mounted LEDs, added some tabs for a hitch pin for each arm and cutting board pads so the arms can rest on something, And the tabs also make a great step when accessing the roof, and used 2" wing tubes so it matches the ARB front more closely.

I've never heard of a labs swing arm or latch failing but I can't help but make more work for myself.

 

[brockdeck]

Sorry to revive an old thread -- but how are you guys wiring in your LEDs for the license plate to the spot on the 4x4Labs rear bumper?

 

[lumbee1]

Something a little different.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Fwiw make sure to keep your swingouts freshly greased, I just finished replacing the bearings on mine today because they rusted and died after 3 years with no maintenance..... Going forward I will open and regrease my bearings once a year and also start sealing the cap with some rtv

 

[Corbet]

I forgot about this thread. Here is my latest edition. Posted already in other places but I’ll put it here too as it may inspire some others. Simple Yakima roof mounts.

 

[lumbee1]

Fwiw make sure to keep your swingouts freshly greased, I just finished replacing the bearings on mine today because they rusted and died after 3 years with no maintenance..... Going forward I will open and regrease my bearings once a year and also start sealing the cap with some rtv

I saw several pictures of spindle bearings turned to dust from water intrusion, so I used black RTV to seal up the cap on both spindles years ago. I haven't had a single hint of grit or noise in the swingouts.

 

[Corbet]

Mine are definitely due for a rebuild. I have not opened them in years. Bearings are original now and 8 years old? New ones have been on the work bench for a year.

 

[Irish Reiver]

Has anyone come up with a solution to mount some Maxtrax sand boards?

 

[2fpower]

Sorry to revive an old thread -- but how are you guys wiring in your LEDs for the license plate to the spot on the 4x4Labs rear bumper?

I found some lights that also are used to hold the license plate in —very small LED units on eBay
CZC AUTO 2PCS License Plate Light, License Tag Screw Bolt Lamp, 12V White LED Bulb, Waterproof/Rainproof, Black Aluminium Light Holder, Legal for Car Motorcycle Truck RV ATV Bike Amazon product ASIN B077Z6WQ6Q

 

[2fpower]

Picture. They are shown on the license plate mounting holes, barely tell they are there

And here is how I did the mount for the swing out

 

[lumbee1]

UPDATE:
My rear tire mount seemed to be moving a little more than expected when offroad. To fix this I needed to tighten the spindle nut but while in there check for water ingress and grease condition in the bearing housing. I cut the RTV between spindle cap and housing and removed the cap. Grease inside of the bearing housing looked to be in great shape and not a single hint of breakdown or rust.

Originally, I tightened the spindle nut to good enough spec. This time though, I torqued the spindle nut to 35 ft/lbs. I added a bit more moly grease on top, reinstalled the spindle cap, sealed it with RTV, and sprayed it matte black.

I don't foresee myself having to ever open the bearing housing again for maintenance.

BTW, bumper was built and installed 5 1/2 years ago.

 

[Trusty Rusty]

Bumping an old thread with some really great extra mods to the Labs rear - wondering if any others have added "flush" mount LED's on the bumper similar to @ERG80 (clean work btw!). Did you box the housing or just make simple cutouts? Also really like @Corbet 's trailer wiring mod - good stuff!

Visibility will definitely be cut down to the rear tail lights and I'm hoping to implement some clean aux lighting solutions.

Thanks folks!

 

[Corbet]

I've considered flush mount lights but just can't commit as they will be angled down so much, I don't think I'll be happy. Plus on departure be vulnerable to damage. I'm still brainstorming for the right solution to that one. I like the Rigid chase light option. Back-up, dust, license plate all in one. Can't come up with a mounting solution I like for all of those and not interfere with my trash-a-roo or force me to transfer it over to multiple mounts as I change activities.

I want swing arm mounted, no roof. Up high for dust visibility. Prefer on spare tire side as that is always on the truck. Best I've come up with is under the spare which solves all needs other than dust light. I could go over the spare and for go license plate illumination.

My wife has also requested a HAM antenna relocation. She is tired of looking at it on top of my ARB front bumper in her line of sight. So mowing that back to the rear swingarm is logical.