Builds 4Door FJ40 Build (FZJ40) (1 Viewer)

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It was a "take out" motor that I got from Tilden Motorsports. They said they did some sort of certification process, which probably means they sprayed some de greaser on it and called it refurbished :) I have contacted them a few times with questions and they are very helpful and responsive. So fingers crossed that it starts.

I think they said it had 100k on it. It came with a 1 year warranty, which has come and gone.
 
While the radiator is out you might want to replace the crank seal and harmonic balancer. Ive seen the balancers go at around 120k.
It was a "take out" motor that I got from Tilden Motorsports. They said they did some sort of certification process, which probably means they sprayed some de greaser on it and called it refurbished :) I have contacted them a few times with questions and they are very helpful and responsive. So fingers crossed that it starts.

I think they said it had 100k on it. It came with a 1 year warranty, which has come and gone.
 
I seem to have 10 things about 60% done which is starting to get annoying. Working on the car wire harness, mocking up the AC \ heater, roll cage, instruments \ senders, fuel door and so on. I tried to stuff the fuse box inside of a water proof box with a clear plastic cover. I put it on the firewall under the master cylinders. It seems to be working out ok.

For the cage I want to put on some supports from the D pillar to C pillar and install the frame time in kit on the bottom of the A pillar and either the C or D pillar depending on which has the most room. I think C is preferred if all things are equal.

I also need to find a place for the LS computer. I was thinking about cutting a hole in back of the glove box and putting the computer in there or I can mount it on the passenger side firewall on the opposite side of that divider support to the engine side. I am unsure if the computer is sensitive to heat and weather. I guess I could make a shield out of aluminum.

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Here are some pics of the battery tray. I tired to space it off the firewall so the AC lines could route under and around it.

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Wow, I bet that felt good pulling it outside.
did you know you can push forward the 80 series front axle 1" to as much as 1.5" without any panhard binding?
 
I see 6 captains chairs going into that thing.:cool:
 
Wow, I bet that felt good pulling it outside.
did you know you can push forward the 80 series front axle 1" to as much as 1.5" without any panhard binding?
Yes it was nice to see how far I have come. I started it up last week, that was exciting. Yes, I am aware of people moving the axle forward by drilling new hole and welding a plate on the panhard frame mount. Is that the method you are talking about? From looking at the pictures do you think it would look better moving it forward that 1-1.5 inch?
 
Yes it was nice to see how far I have come. I started it up last week, that was exciting. Yes, I am aware of people moving the axle forward by drilling new hole and welding a plate on the panhard frame mount. Is that the method you are talking about? From looking at the pictures do you think it would look better moving it forward that 1-1.5 inch?
Not quite correct method. Don't need to do anything with the panhard mount. Drill a new hole in the frame side radius arm bracket and weld new plates in there to reinforce. Simple job. I think it would help your build, and look better.
Edit: don't see it in the pics but plate both sides of the frame bracket.

Axle relocation by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Axle relocation by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Axle relocation by Adam Tolman, on Flickr

Axle relocation by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
 
40 owners have flipped their springs & it moves the axle forward.... to bad 80s can't get 3" but 1" is better than nothing. Yes I like the tire more forward in a 40 series fender. This is why I mentioned it.
 
In order to mount my 8274 winch I had to extend the front frame by like 3". There was not enough room between the first cross member and the which bumper plate. I took the pieces of frame that I cut off the rear and welded to the front after modifying it a bit. The from box size of the front is slightly different than the rear. I added a small piece of flat steel to try and strengthen it up.

I also picked up a used semi complete locked rear, the actuator has the wires but the plug was cut off. Anyone know where to find those plugs?

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Working on the seat frame and front seats. I will probably need some supports to go down to the floor in the front but unsure if they need to be in the front of the rail or can be a diagonal brace from the roll cage base up. I also want to figure out a way to effectively store some tools and general crap under the seats without them flopping all over the place when wheeling.

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