Builds 4Door FJ40 Build (FZJ40) (1 Viewer)

[derekweitz]

Here are a few pics of the linkage. Unfortunately I do not know who made the adapter bracket so that the stock FJ60 Transfer shifter would mount to the NV4500. The adapter came with the transfer case from Valley Hybrid.

 

[White Stripe]

I wouldn't paint the underside, I would line it with bedliner. I used a combination of Raptor liner and lizard skin ceramic on the bottom of my aqualu.

 

[derekweitz]

I wouldn't paint the underside, I would line it with bedliner. I used a combination of Raptor liner and lizard skin ceramic on the bottom of my aqualu.

Thanks, did you do the same combo on the topside of the tub? do you think that the ceramic coating helps with sound and heat?

 

[White Stripe]

Thanks, did you do the same combo on the topside of the tub? do you think that the ceramic coating helps with sound and heat?

I did raptor inside. On the bottom I did raptor ih the fender wells and lizard skin ceramic on the bottom of the floor and trans tunnel. It did reduce heat. I didn't use lizard skin sound control. But for what I used it did reduce sound slightly. I put carpet/insulation on top of that and just pull it and shake it out when they get dirty. Easy to maintain this setup and keep clean. Running a soft top keeps things loud. Hard top n doors would really keep it quieter.

 

[derekweitz]

I ended up spraying lizard skin ceramic coating on the bottom using a home depot texture gun, came out pretty good. I also tried to spray the ceramic coating with my acrylic urethane paint color and clear, I would do the clear again but would skip the paint color. The holding is good but you cant see the color at all. The clear does make a nice surface, hopefully makes it easier to keep clean.

 

[derekweitz]

The cowl is back from powder coating and got a great deal on media blasting \ powdercoating from Grizzly Powder Coating in Santa Cruz, CA. I also picked up a GM tilt column. Sad to say I should have fit in place before sending out to get coated since I am going to have to trim some metal to fit it in. I will need to widen the slot in the firewall and trim some off of the opening under the gauge cluster.

I also decided to paint and clear the inside \ outside of the firewall and behind the dash & glove box areas. Figured it will never be easier than now to paint those areas. The rest of the cowl should be easy enough to get when I paint the rest of the body.

The GM Column: I purchased a rebuilt column from Ebay 88-94 full size try floor shift, tilt. Ended up having to cut the stock firewall mount off. I see that a few people have already fabricated mounts so I will just copy them. I did purchase the a mount for the dash side of the column from BTB, see pic.

 

[White Stripe]

I didn't feel the lizard skin ceramic was very durable. If u spray it in the wheel wells I think it will chip off from rocks.

 

[derekweitz]

Here are some pics of the steering column and bracket I made. I think I need to move the entire drive train over an inch toward the passenger side to make room for the steering column, its pretty close to where the exhaust manifold will go. I think motor mounts have that much or more play in them.

Anyone have a part number for vehicle that has a rear dump, block hugging LS Gen III manifold.

 

[derekweitz]

In trying to address my soon to be wheel position issue.... I was talking to a 4-wheel guy in Australia that claims to have moved his front axle forward on his 80 frame by moving the control arm mounting hole forward 30mm. He was claiming that nothing else needs to change. He said to weld in a little plate to cover the old hole and drill a new one 30mm forward.

Has anyone heard of this before?

 

[White Stripe]

I think u will need to move the axle forward more than 33mm. U probably will have to move it 3 or 4 inches. With big tires, typically an inch or 2 forward from stock position in a 40 front fender looks best.

 

[derekweitz]

Here are some pictures of the steering all connected

Parts:
(1) 1" DD x 1" DD steel U joint - Generic Brand off amazon
(1) 3/4" DD x 11/16 36 spline steel U joint (FZJ80 steering box side) Borgeson Part #014925
(1) 24" inch telescoping shaft - Borgeson Part# 450024(will need to trim off 10 or so inches)

 

[ajordan1975]

awesome build!

 

[derekweitz]

I looked all over for some block hugging manifolds with the correct dump location, but there are not many good options. The manifolds from a the 2010 Camero have a rear dump and might have worked, but they would have been very close to the clutch slave cylinder. I ended up going with Advanced Adapters header, they said they are made to work with their LS motor mounts so at least I knew they would fit. The steering column is close, about 1.5" away but I assume that there is no issue with the column getting a little warm.

AA Part #717043-HDR

 

[hamishpotter]

This is so impressive and inspiring. Sub'd

And major points for performing the build in your kitchen..

Aqualu Tub.... I really like the quality. The one thing I dislike so far is the inside rear wheel well is high vs stock. I like the lower stock height because I can pack a few items in those nooks when loading up for a trip.


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[derekweitz]

The clutch master and slave were pretty easy. I do have a 90 on the way for the slave side to keep the hose away from the header. I also installed the brake master cylinder. I used the stock FZJ80 booster. The bolt pattern lines up if you rotate it 180 degrees and then round out the mounting holes ever so slightly on the firewall. It's a pretty tight fit as it overlaps one of the Clutch master mounting bolts.

I removed the ABS setup and removed the rear weight activated proportioning valve. I have a manual proportioning valve on the way. I read a few articles about the 80 people doing this so I am following suit.

 

[derekweitz]

lol, I chose the kitchen so that I can feed the kids, wrench and wash parts in the sink. I think they call that the work kitchen triangle or something

This is so impressive and inspiring. Sub'd

And major points for performing the build in your kitchen..

 

[derekweitz]

I finally sacked up and took the front diff apart to retrofit it for a stock e-locker and install the new manual locking hubs. What a dirty job, I rebuilt the hubs on various 40's over the years but I don't remember them being as messy as this 80. I guess 200k miles of road grime + the normal grease and oil is a bad combo. Once I got everything cleaned up the retrofit was fairly easy, I just followed the instructions on slee Slee - Retrofitting Lockers (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser). I used the gasket to trace out the area to grind and where to tap the new holes. I spent the last week, cleaning and painting most of the parts, luckily the hub rebuild kit replaces a good amount of items.

 

[derekweitz]

Ran into one setback, the passenger side radius arm looks to be bent. I assume from an accident There is a guy in Sac has has one for sale, so I might just buy it. I would not mind finding a place that sells extended arms, that might help me move the axle forward.

 

[dirtyboots]

Redline Cruisers sells pre cut plates to move your axle forward I think it’s on @Boing ‘s build thread as well.

Newark pick and pull has an 80 probably still has control arms although they look likely damaged. It’s hard to tell from the picture but the thing looks completely totaled.

Otherwise deathvalleypaul or uncle grumpy on here might have a control arm. HTH

 

[derekweitz]

Redline Cruisers sells pre cut plates to move your axle forward I think it’s on @Boing ‘s build thread as well.

Thanks, there was some good info in that thread. This is the second person that I have seen move the axle forward by drilling a new hole in the mount. The thing I can't understand is that they never touch the panhard. From what I see there is not much play in the stock one. This build had an adjustable panhard, I am wondering if that helps. I guess ultimately @White Stripe is right and I will need way more than 1" forward. I ordered some MetalTech Fenders over Christmas so after I install those I should have a better idea of what I am up against.

Newark pick and pull has an 80 probably still has control arms although they look likely damaged. It’s hard to tell from the picture but the thing looks completely totaled.

I found a shop in Sacramento that had a bunch of spare parts so I was able to pick one up for $60 which seems reasonable.

Otherwise deathvalleypaul or uncle grumpy on here might have a control arm. HTH