Bummer. The 80 second row would have been sweet in there. It does look a little tight. What about two more of the bucket seats to match the front? Then you'd have a small pass through between them for 3rd row passengers to access the back seat.
Build 4Door FJ40 Build (FZJ40)
- Thread starter derekweitz
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #102
Interesting, I never seriously considered a 3rd row option but it does make sense if the third row is easily removable. Two comfy buckets in the 2nd row would be nice.
A fold and tumble ( like a besttop seat) would be a great third row and could either fold up against the middle buckets or you could make it to easily remove completely and have a full cargo area in the rear. Sorry, I've just had a 4-door 40 project in the back of my mind for a while and that's how I was planning to handle seating.
- Thread starter
- #104
Slight bad news on the 93 Locked rear Axle I picked up. The mounting flange is broken in multiple places. I did not notice when I purchased it 
That is my idiot tax. I assume that this cannot be repaired. It looks like I can get an asain one for $400 bucks. If anyone has better advice please let me know.
That is my idiot tax. I assume that this cannot be repaired. It looks like I can get an asain one for $400 bucks. If anyone has better advice please let me know.- Thread starter
- #105
I took the rear apart, new actuator, bearings, seals, rotors, calipers, e-brake and my favorite POR 15. Wife wife hates the red, she now calls it the douche mobile.
- Thread starter
- #106
Some pics of the fold and tumble seat Bestop 39435-01. I shimmed it up in the front because of the change in height of the bed. I also tried to move it forward.
- Thread starter
- #107
I was also working on the hump it does not quite fit right against the stock firewall so I used some tap plastic scraps to try and shim it out and hope fully the bed liner will cover it up nicely.
- Thread starter
- #109
The big Bondo spot is where I filled in the stock vent area. I am just paining the body and cowl now. I will paint the hood, fenders, windshield etc later. Hoping to get the base and clear done this week. Gun Metal Gray is the color I am going with.
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- Thread starter
- #110
Pics after paint. There is a fair amount of orange peel but I don't think the rocks and tree branches will mind.
- Thread starter
- #111
I am looking for a place to put the E Brake handle. Originally I thought I would put it in the hump but there is not much room underneath. I actually like the idea of putting it between the drivers seat and the door. The stock handle is a bit large but seems ok. Maybe I should look for a smaller universal handle.
- Thread starter
- #112
Getting there slowly
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- Thread starter
- #113
My front actuator is missing a plug, I see two little prongs instead of a the male end of the plug. Anyone know if there is a replacement plug with part number?
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- Thread starter
- #114
Looks like it is the diff lock indicator and is a commonly replaced part.
Beck Arnley 201-1788 Back Up Lamp Switch
or
NAPA Pt# NS6421
or
Toyota 84222-12010
Beck Arnley 201-1788 Back Up Lamp Switch
or
NAPA Pt# NS6421
or
Toyota 84222-12010
Hi Derek
Loving the build, im about to start a stretched 40 on 80 chassis myself.
Could you have found, or run wheels with more inboard offset to keep them tucked in more? Looks like plenty of room to the springs. Is there another limiting factor?
Thanks
Loving the build, im about to start a stretched 40 on 80 chassis myself.
Could you have found, or run wheels with more inboard offset to keep them tucked in more? Looks like plenty of room to the springs. Is there another limiting factor?
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #116
Hi, sorry for the late reply.
I did not look very hard for different wheels as I figured I could always do that after its complete. I also was not sure what the front and rear fenders would look like. I still need to do something in the rear. I do not think there is an immediate limiting factor, I can measure when I get back in town but I seem to remember there was enough room for another 3/4". I think the brake bleeder and caliper hose line are close but a 17 or 18 might solve those problems. I guess at some point you lose turning radius and it will start rubbing. My buddy says that the fj cruisers stock wheels might be a good option.
Also the amount that the tires stick out past the body is different on the passenger side vs driver and its opposite in the front, I am trying to figure out if I am supposed to get the adjustable panhards to even them out a bit or is this how it is designed to work and I should leave it as is.
Are you doing an Aqulu tub or adding on to a stock 40 tub? please post your thread if you have one
Thank you for the thoughtful response.
I think we share that common friend who is a fan of the FJ cruiser wheels. He pointed me towards your build thread. I am in Truckee for reference
I have been busy working on other people's projects and haven't really started mine, just collecting the big pieces and figuring out a plan.
I have a complete running 75 fj40 with the regular rust plus extra tops. I have a donor 80 rolling chassis (RHD) and i just picked up a complete 100k mile LQ4.
Plan is cut the 80 chassis to a 105" WB , stretch the 40 body to fit and keep the rear overhang about what it is on the stock 40 body, also keeping everything a low as possible, on 37s.
I am a lifelong welder but am currently setup only to weld steel in my garage, so I will be hacking and welding on the stock steel 40 tub.
The wide track of the 80 is one thing that has been giving me pause as I haven't seen a solution to the tires sticking way out or adding flares and I'm not at a point I can figure a solution yet myself.
Thanks again.
I think we share that common friend who is a fan of the FJ cruiser wheels. He pointed me towards your build thread. I am in Truckee for reference
I have been busy working on other people's projects and haven't really started mine, just collecting the big pieces and figuring out a plan.
I have a complete running 75 fj40 with the regular rust plus extra tops. I have a donor 80 rolling chassis (RHD) and i just picked up a complete 100k mile LQ4.
Plan is cut the 80 chassis to a 105" WB , stretch the 40 body to fit and keep the rear overhang about what it is on the stock 40 body, also keeping everything a low as possible, on 37s.
I am a lifelong welder but am currently setup only to weld steel in my garage, so I will be hacking and welding on the stock steel 40 tub.
The wide track of the 80 is one thing that has been giving me pause as I haven't seen a solution to the tires sticking way out or adding flares and I'm not at a point I can figure a solution yet myself.
Thanks again.
Absolutely love this build! So glad I just stumbled across it. It's awesome you've been able to accomplish so much in your home garage too! I have a similar setup at home and never feel like I have enough room. No more excuses! Haha. Congrats and your progress so far!
This is so close to the median voyage.... this is so very cool.
I would like to see this in person someday. Im like 3 hrs from you.
I would like to see this in person someday. Im like 3 hrs from you.
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- Sep 9, 2004
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Yes you want adjustable panhards to center the axles under the truck. Wait to do that though until you are almost done and it is about what it will weight finished.
Great build by the way! Takes stamina to get through a build like this not to mention dedication.
Cheers