2fpower
SILVER Star
Batter up.
Builds 4bt cummins 96 FZJ (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter cjmoon
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Batter up.
- Thread starter
- #202
i've read up where they can be brazed but i messed with some of the original and they appear welded i tried separate and the whole assembly melted at the same point without separation. i had to use one compression fitting that i put rtv on it. of course my a/c doesn't work it is holding a charge but acting clogged. functioning when removed didn't flush but replaced drier. something got clogged in the process was building to high of pressure at first and then just generating heat so i think i messed up the compressor and will need to flush and replace drier, expansion valve and maybe compressor. I think that will have to wait till this spring. your wanting to move the drier higher. i didn't mess with that yet but probably should. there are a lot of write-ups many use a civic drier and tubes if i remember from previous searches. you can bent them around a little to get it higher.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Ok. I just found a set of 91' tubes and dryer bracket to move up by battery. Will have to find a crimp that tornado may have to link with existing line. Will let you know if that works. Sounds like early camry is the same line ends that dryer for 1fz has, so next time I am at junkyard, I will be looking at lines.
Theyre called beadlock and use this sst
2fpower
SILVER Star
That does not look cheap at all. Highjack over.
- Thread starter
- #206
that's no fun i probably need to do this as well i'm curious how it turn out. hope to carve some time out this weekend to trade a/c for heater parts. going to be around?
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Have you used your heater? I have mine plumbed the opposite, I'm guessing I have it wrong. I just assumed that coolant flow was going from the waterpump through the heater valve and then back. I see you have a pyro, running any other gauges?
- Thread starter
- #208
Heater valve shouldn't matter that much whether up or down stream. It's just stoping flow so you don't have heat in the cab when you don't want it. It will flow to the lower water pump inlet near the lower radiator hose.
I have been debating pulling some of the in used/wanted sensors and pulling hot coolant from the back of the block. Just to clean up the hoses. Then run a hard line tight to the block under the manifold for the return from the heater core.
Pyro boost and tranny temp. Are the only extra gauges. I have a glowshift 3 in 1 diesel gauge. A little cheesy tuner ish but one gauge instead of 3. At half the cost. I have had it for about 5 years. Get the white face for sure the smoke is hard to read in daylight if it's shining through the window.
I have been debating pulling some of the in used/wanted sensors and pulling hot coolant from the back of the block. Just to clean up the hoses. Then run a hard line tight to the block under the manifold for the return from the heater core.
Pyro boost and tranny temp. Are the only extra gauges. I have a glowshift 3 in 1 diesel gauge. A little cheesy tuner ish but one gauge instead of 3. At half the cost. I have had it for about 5 years. Get the white face for sure the smoke is hard to read in daylight if it's shining through the window.
in the pic below see on the driver side rear upper corner of the motor there is a brass 90 with a barbed fitting. that's where my heater line is coming out of. Dustin machined a hole in the side if the 90 to put the temp sensor in too. then it goes back in down on the passenger side front by the lower radiator hose.
[photo="large"]27259[/photo]
[photo="large"]27259[/photo]
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Yeah I noticed thats how they did it for mr. Cimmarons swap as well.
Okay, I wasn't sure, thanks! I ordered some autometer gauges, pyro and boost and then was planning on running a Cat gauge I have for oil pressure lol. Thinking maybe I'd like water temp down the road too. Thanks! I was just curious.
Okay, I wasn't sure, thanks! I ordered some autometer gauges, pyro and boost and then was planning on running a Cat gauge I have for oil pressure lol. Thinking maybe I'd like water temp down the road too. Thanks! I was just curious.
so in my setup, Dustin used the stock yota oil pressure sender on the extra 1/8" port on the oil filter housing and on that brass 90 degree in the back, he machined a hole to use the stock yota water temp sensor. so both stock gauges on the dash still work. and the stock yota A/C cutout switch also gets used on the driver side of the block under the intake. those are the only 3 sensors used on the cummins besides if you want boost or pyro. Which I got the same Glowshift gauge as @cjmoon
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Yeah. I've never been a big fan of stock senders/gauges. But fair enough, wouldn't be hard to do if I still had my stock senders, but I scrapped em. LOL. I'm not sure what to do about the Tach or Speedo but I've seen a few options. My truck varies a little from most swaps though. My 92 has a cable speedo I believe and I think the 1st gen cummins used a VSS type deal out of the NP205 so I might just get ghetto with a tom tom or something. The Tach I may consult with Dakota Digital and see if they can't make me something to pick up that stock sensor and convert it to whatever the 92 uses. I haven't really done my homework yet though. AC is a whole nother problem. I've got lines made up to the stock cummins compressor but I'm realizing I did away with my schraders so that's gonna be an issue but I'll solve that down the road. Anyhow don't mean to hijack your thread.
Thanks for the info! I've been in awe with the tech in this thread, and your aptitude. Cool to see some out of the box thinking/tinkering!
Thanks for the info! I've been in awe with the tech in this thread, and your aptitude. Cool to see some out of the box thinking/tinkering!
I have Dakota digital for both tach and speedo. They splice into the harness behind the glove box.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Problem is you have an electronic speedo and mines cable driven. 
- Thread starter
- #215
well you'll all be happy to know i've enlisted my good friend to do some destruction I mean R&D on the A343F 6bt combo. Duiser's 1996 LX450 came up for sale locally and we picked it up. lets just say if there's a weak spot he'll find it.
of course it didn't make it home dies on the hwy... bleed the fuel system started back up and got it back home but fuel wasn't right still. checked fuel fittings got rid of the adapters and stock fuel line to the lift pump and started pulling off extra crap left on the engine that wasn't needed. at least the grid heater was left in as we will need it here, but the wires were just cut off left hanging... really Duiser??? opened the tank and found it full of crap that clogged the sock filter. that will have to be addressed after the tank is closer to empty.
It needs more trans rail pressure for sure, torque converter will not hold at low RMP lock. shift points were all over the place and full throttle could not be reached. got those mildly cleaned up and it drives like a new truck. fuel pin and gov spring on the way to be able to hit highway speeds with the stock small tires. trans pan being dropped to start with upping rail pressure and better flow through the valve body. might do a shift kit while in there if it comes in time.
please no peanut gallery comments. yes he is pushing limits that's what he does.
of course it didn't make it home dies on the hwy... bleed the fuel system started back up and got it back home but fuel wasn't right still. checked fuel fittings got rid of the adapters and stock fuel line to the lift pump and started pulling off extra crap left on the engine that wasn't needed. at least the grid heater was left in as we will need it here, but the wires were just cut off left hanging... really Duiser??? opened the tank and found it full of crap that clogged the sock filter. that will have to be addressed after the tank is closer to empty.
It needs more trans rail pressure for sure, torque converter will not hold at low RMP lock. shift points were all over the place and full throttle could not be reached. got those mildly cleaned up and it drives like a new truck. fuel pin and gov spring on the way to be able to hit highway speeds with the stock small tires. trans pan being dropped to start with upping rail pressure and better flow through the valve body. might do a shift kit while in there if it comes in time.
please no peanut gallery comments. yes he is pushing limits that's what he does.
maxamillion2345
Franken-80
Hmmm... not surprised on any of it. They market it as a turn key conversion too...
Look forward to the results!
Look forward to the results!
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
I think the weak spot you'll find will be the transmission. This is why I am going to use the 47re with the dodge PCM to control shifting. For the adapter from trans to tcase Northwest Fab is making a underdrive that will bolt to the transmission and tcase giving me an additional 2.72 : 1
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
What do you mean?
He's saying he agrees that the transmission will be the weak point, but what component of the transmission will fail first? He's willing to modify/upgrade the LC transmission to prevent it from being the weak point.
