- Thread starter
- #441
Upper hose. Stupid one pic at a time iFap.
45swb project - 2short (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Gumby
- Start date
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Is a stock 4core going to keep it cool enough ?
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Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
- Thread starter
- #443
We'll see. I'll put an aluminum in if not.
It kept the 5.7 cool enough, with a less efficient cooling system, but much less power.
It kept the 5.7 cool enough, with a less efficient cooling system, but much less power.
- Thread starter
- #444
Picked up a flat mount ECM bracket from Yates EFI. Got the PCM all cleaned up and painted. Mounted the bracket below where the clutch master would go. Mounted the fuse box for the motor above that to the outside of the clutch hole. It'll be a short run through the grommet that is currently in the clutch master hole to the ignition switch for constant, ignition and start wires to the PCM.
- Thread starter
- #445
Took the bed off yesterday to mount the in tank fuel pump. I bought some weld in bungs to weld to a plate that I will bolt over a hole in the tank. The bungs will have a 3/8 NPT to 3/8 inverted flare on the inside of the pressure side going to a 3/8 metal line to the 60psi pump. The return will have a 1/4 NPT to 1/4 inverted flare to metal line that will also serve as the hanger for the pump.
The other side of the bungs will have a 90 degree NPT to push on adapter to GM push on line to nylon 300psi line all the way to the push on connectors at the fuel rail.
I also want to try a SOA on the rear to see how it balances my front 4" springs. I'm still very undecided on the lift. I like it low.
I also cut out the Ford shock towers to go back to stock towers so I don't have to cut my new fenders. I will still have to trim the left one to clear the scout box.
The other side of the bungs will have a 90 degree NPT to push on adapter to GM push on line to nylon 300psi line all the way to the push on connectors at the fuel rail.
I also want to try a SOA on the rear to see how it balances my front 4" springs. I'm still very undecided on the lift. I like it low.
I also cut out the Ford shock towers to go back to stock towers so I don't have to cut my new fenders. I will still have to trim the left one to clear the scout box.
- Thread starter
- #446
Fuel pump is installed.
I purged the tank with argon and lubed the crap out of my hole saw so it cut cool and spark free, but it was still kind of scary drilling a hole in a fuel tank. Drilled 5 smaller holes around the perimeter and used 6mm nutserts to give me some threads.
The fuel pump module is a chunk of 1/4 plate cut out with a 4" hole saw. Two 5/16 NPT bungs from McMaster-Carr welded in. The bottom threads on the bung go to a 5/16 nipple for the fuel pump and a 3/8 inverted flare for the return/ pump support. I drilled a 1/4 hole for the wires, double shrink wrapped them and siliconed them sealed. The pump didn't have a strainer so I used one from something else. It fits tight against the bottom of the tank.
The lines were not what I asked for, but the price was right. I need to find a filter I can plumb to -an fittings as the builder didn't leave any provisions for a filter.
Pumps 60 psi at the fuel rail.
I purged the tank with argon and lubed the crap out of my hole saw so it cut cool and spark free, but it was still kind of scary drilling a hole in a fuel tank. Drilled 5 smaller holes around the perimeter and used 6mm nutserts to give me some threads.
The fuel pump module is a chunk of 1/4 plate cut out with a 4" hole saw. Two 5/16 NPT bungs from McMaster-Carr welded in. The bottom threads on the bung go to a 5/16 nipple for the fuel pump and a 3/8 inverted flare for the return/ pump support. I drilled a 1/4 hole for the wires, double shrink wrapped them and siliconed them sealed. The pump didn't have a strainer so I used one from something else. It fits tight against the bottom of the tank.
The lines were not what I asked for, but the price was right. I need to find a filter I can plumb to -an fittings as the builder didn't leave any provisions for a filter.
Pumps 60 psi at the fuel rail.
- Thread starter
- #447
The rear springs are all done as well. I took the top two leafs of the stock pack and combined them with the bottom four leafs of the 4" Rough Countrys. The stock shackles were too short and they were still a bit nose up with 4" rough country packs on the front. I built some 6" extended anti-inversion shackles.
I had a set of poly bushings from something. The stock pins were just too big to fit in them but the OD was perfect. The stock pins were pretty beat up too, so I turned them down about .030. That made them the right size and cleaned them up nicely.
I also had a set of Rancho RS9000s that will fit well.
I had a set of poly bushings from something. The stock pins were just too big to fit in them but the OD was perfect. The stock pins were pretty beat up too, so I turned them down about .030. That made them the right size and cleaned them up nicely.
I also had a set of Rancho RS9000s that will fit well.
- Thread starter
- #448
Put the 6 degree shims in the front today. Pinion angle is much better I'm not sure what the caster is now, but it's better than what it was after installing the rough country springs.
Installed a new starter. The old starter was bad and was the long/short bolt design that has proven to have nose cone breakage issues. The new starter has two long bolts.
Put oil in it.
Hooked up the starter wire to the ignition switch. Hooked up the new main power feed and the orange constants to the ignition switch. Hooked up the ignition feed from the interior fuse box to the relay that powers the under hood fuse box.
Turned the key to test the power to the starter and the engine fired right up. Runs smooth and surprisingly quiet.
Ordered a metal flexible lower hose and a lokar throttle cable. Marlin vss was on the porch when I got home.
Installed a new starter. The old starter was bad and was the long/short bolt design that has proven to have nose cone breakage issues. The new starter has two long bolts.
Put oil in it.
Hooked up the starter wire to the ignition switch. Hooked up the new main power feed and the orange constants to the ignition switch. Hooked up the ignition feed from the interior fuse box to the relay that powers the under hood fuse box.
Turned the key to test the power to the starter and the engine fired right up. Runs smooth and surprisingly quiet.
Ordered a metal flexible lower hose and a lokar throttle cable. Marlin vss was on the porch when I got home.
- Thread starter
- #449
Runs much better when both banks are getting power to the coils. 
drilled and tapped a plugged hole on the rear of the right bank for the aftermarket coolant gauge. wired it up and getting good readings.
Hooked up the oil pressure gauge to the GM sender wire. Gauge moves. Its reading about 75psi at idle. I doubt thats working right.
Hooked up the lower hose. Changed the T-stat to one that didn't leak.
Hooked up the Lokar throttle cable. Had to adjust the pedal height to accommodate the longer throw of the throttle. Hopefully it won't be too high now to be able to rest my heel on the floor.
Got the front springs all tightened up.
Routed a couple of things a bit better.
The Marlin VSS will not clear the e-brake cable, but I still need a Toyota pigtail for it to wire it to the GM harness, so not a big deal. It will run without it.
Wired up the OBDII DLC. plugged it in to the scan tool and checked it out. Readings look good. No codes. Closed loop. O2s reading good. ECT about 10 degrees cooler than the gauge so I'll have to keep that in mind.
Put it in gear on the hoist and it started clunking really bad. The whole chassis was shaking rhythmically like a U-joint was binding. I noticed the wheels were turning slow and the fronts were turning and I remembered the transfer case had to move forward an inch or so to meet up with the LS engine. Both shifters were jammed back. I cut the hole bigger so they can go into 2H and the clunking went away. I put the truck all the way up to see if the front u-joint was binding and saw the weight on the front drive shaft was hitting the hoist foot. Whew.
Took it for a ride and scared the poo out of myself. Its stupid fast.
Gotta button up a few things and start doing body work.
drilled and tapped a plugged hole on the rear of the right bank for the aftermarket coolant gauge. wired it up and getting good readings.
Hooked up the oil pressure gauge to the GM sender wire. Gauge moves. Its reading about 75psi at idle. I doubt thats working right.
Hooked up the lower hose. Changed the T-stat to one that didn't leak.
Hooked up the Lokar throttle cable. Had to adjust the pedal height to accommodate the longer throw of the throttle. Hopefully it won't be too high now to be able to rest my heel on the floor.
Got the front springs all tightened up.
Routed a couple of things a bit better.
The Marlin VSS will not clear the e-brake cable, but I still need a Toyota pigtail for it to wire it to the GM harness, so not a big deal. It will run without it.
Wired up the OBDII DLC. plugged it in to the scan tool and checked it out. Readings look good. No codes. Closed loop. O2s reading good. ECT about 10 degrees cooler than the gauge so I'll have to keep that in mind.
Put it in gear on the hoist and it started clunking really bad. The whole chassis was shaking rhythmically like a U-joint was binding. I noticed the wheels were turning slow and the fronts were turning and I remembered the transfer case had to move forward an inch or so to meet up with the LS engine. Both shifters were jammed back. I cut the hole bigger so they can go into 2H and the clunking went away. I put the truck all the way up to see if the front u-joint was binding and saw the weight on the front drive shaft was hitting the hoist foot. Whew.
Took it for a ride and scared the poo out of myself. Its stupid fast.
Gotta button up a few things and start doing body work.
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- Thread starter
- #450
pic 1 = coolant sensor
pic 2 - Still have to tie up a few more wires at the fuse box. I've pretty well used all the ones I'm going to need. i should be able to seal it up now.
pic 3 - Carquest has heater hoses with a 3/4 end on a 5/8 hose so I could eliminate the surge tank.
pic 2 - Still have to tie up a few more wires at the fuse box. I've pretty well used all the ones I'm going to need. i should be able to seal it up now.
pic 3 - Carquest has heater hoses with a 3/4 end on a 5/8 hose so I could eliminate the surge tank.
- Thread starter
- #451
im not sure I'm going to like the lift.
because...?
- Thread starter
- #453
I liked it low. Easy to use day to day. Stable on the street. Now it has twice the power and could potentially get out of sorts a lot faster.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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What kind of rational talk is that?;p
- Thread starter
- #455
I'm gonna die in this thing. I got to the shop early before they plowed and did doughnuts in the parking lot for a while. So much fun.
Swapped the springs around. I had put both fronts on the left and both rears on the right so it cruiser leaned abou two inches. Now it sits pretty level.
Wife showed up so we went for a quick no windshield ride. It's impossible to keep your foot out of it. It's fast as hell and makes great sexy noises through the flow master.
So it has a steel dash that you probably won't bash your brains out on because you'll probably be impaled on the non-collapseable steering column first. Lap belt, but nothing else. The seat is held down by a couple of 6mm pins and a pair of wire clips. No roof or other roll protection. Now let's double the horsepower and jack it up 4". What could possibly go wrong with that?
Swapped the springs around. I had put both fronts on the left and both rears on the right so it cruiser leaned abou two inches. Now it sits pretty level.
Wife showed up so we went for a quick no windshield ride. It's impossible to keep your foot out of it. It's fast as hell and makes great sexy noises through the flow master.
So it has a steel dash that you probably won't bash your brains out on because you'll probably be impaled on the non-collapseable steering column first. Lap belt, but nothing else. The seat is held down by a couple of 6mm pins and a pair of wire clips. No roof or other roll protection. Now let's double the horsepower and jack it up 4". What could possibly go wrong with that?
- Thread starter
- #457
The fenders are sealed, primed and painted and installed.
The ws frame and aprons, (the correct ones this time,) are painted.
The bed and the cab are repaired and prepped.
The running boards are straight.
The windshield is ordered.
Tomorrow the ws and aprons will be dry and I can install those, then I'll reshoot the whole truck.
I'm taking the doors and top in this afternoon too so I can fit a roll cage. Seems the prudent thing to do.
The ws frame and aprons, (the correct ones this time,) are painted.
The bed and the cab are repaired and prepped.
The running boards are straight.
The windshield is ordered.
Tomorrow the ws and aprons will be dry and I can install those, then I'll reshoot the whole truck.
I'm taking the doors and top in this afternoon too so I can fit a roll cage. Seems the prudent thing to do.
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47coeman
Love those 45's
Just like new again, good job...
Nice work Gum!
Should be fun trying to fit the cage into the cab and keep from smacking you head on it all the time. Good luck.
