Builds 400HP 6.2L LS with 6 Speed auto swap....no lift. Plug 'n play swap kit in development (3 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

LS edit will take care of any readiness test issues as you can set them all completed on key on.
that is true - and so can HP tuners. But, they can see that you set those parameters if they choose to look.

By forcing to ready you are bypassing the entire purpose of having OBD2 because the PCM no longer tests for problems.
 
rockrod, do you think the ability to read "ready" will be a problem if the manifolds/cats are essentially stock GM parts in their stock locations?
by mimicking the OEM arrangement you should be able to get the readiness monitors to show ready. Also be sure to have all of the emissions parts in place - fuel level sensor, fuel tank pressure, EVAP purge solenoid and solenoid sensor and all 4 O2 sensors. HP Tuners or LS Edit is required to make the changes to the PCM program so that the PCM has the correct tank volume to do it's calculations from. When I did my swap I went as far as to use a stock silverado EVAP canister to replace the toyota canister so that I could that portion the readiness monitor to work. I also installed a 96 model gas cap.
 
I'll repeat what I've already said: I have a rig, actually two, in California, that want to do this swap. I am pretty much squared away to move forward on this if you want a partner in CA to mirror what your doing and go through the actual process. I think piggybacking here in Cali at the same time as you r&d out east would be beneficial to you.... :shrug:
Edit: one thing I want to do though is try to use the doubler that's in development rather than the marks adapter...

That's my same thought.. Use the nwf black box instead of the marks adapter. Put that 1400$ to some better use :)
 
that is true - and so can HP tuners. But, they can see that you set those parameters if they choose to look.

By forcing to ready you are bypassing the entire purpose of having OBD2 because the PCM no longer tests for problems.

Not true, readiness tests are for emissions proposes only. The ecu will still check all the sensors and throw codes for any malfunction of them.

As for the referee actually checking the parameters, they won't change. Doing a force pass just sets the test as passed and affects nothing else.

LS edit / HP tuner also lets you get rid of any pesky codes for evaporative function that the 80 doesn't have. Once again the parameters don't change, you just disable the code.
 
Yeah, like these CA guys are mentioning. It's gonna get hooked up to the obd2 system and scrutinized. If there's no issues there, the parts are merely going to be glanced over.

Manifolds and intake changes between vehicles who share that motor aren't going to be an issue, factory CA serial numbers are all he cares about(or aftermarket w the CARB sticker/stamp.

I talked to my local ref a bunch for my 1uz 4runner swap....

He's not there to bust yer balls, but he's got a strict criteria to follow. He understands cutting and turning flanges, sharper elbows to narrow between frame rails, even driver side/passenger side swaps for front drivelines are understood(on an inline motor)...

If cutting exhaust components at flanges to rewelded it dismisses most of the worries he has (and then the tape measure) with looking at several chunks of hacked up tubing , etc.
 
Last edited:
@Booger weldz do you know if the refs care about the intake side of things. Wondering if I have to keep the stock intake tube/air box or if something custom will be acceptable.

I finally got the hood and engine cover up here to the shop. As it sits I can put the cover on and close the hood, but the insulation touches the cover. I can't lower the engine anymore and I don't think it's acceptable for the cover to touch the insulation, so I think the cover has to go. The good news is that means I can raise the engine about an inch.

More progress tonight hopefully.
 
?

After 1995 we can't mess with intakes much, at least that's what I found when considering messing with the stock air cleaner arrangement for coilover towers placement.
 
You can use any intake that is carb exempt for the vehicle the engine came out of.
 
Intake would be defined as an intake kit (tube, filter, misc) that was certified by carb as an assembly
 
@dallen341 Here are pics of the manifolds from underneath that you requested.

Driver's side. The square chunk of aluminum sticking off the side of the transmission looks really close to the flange, but it's an optical illusion. The downpipes clear it fine.
20141208_221343[1].jpg


Passenger side
20141208_221332[1].jpg


I match-marked the passenger side flange to the downpipe flange and then ground it to gain a little bit of clearance. There is still a ton of meat, and I may grind both the manifold and the downpipe flanges a bit more if it proves to be a problem.

Here you can see the line I scribed where the downpipe flange met up to the manifold flange.
20141208_222521[1].jpg


And this is it ground down to that line.
20141208_222940[1].jpg
 
So after 2 hours of fiddling with the engine placement, I ended up right where I started. Raising the engine pushes the passenger side head into the firewall and kills the little bit of clearance I had on the driver's side manifold to the steering shaft. So I guess it will stay where it was. I'm a little concerned about how tight the passenger side manifold is to the frame(3/16" now), but as I said above there is still a good bit of meat left to add clearance.

Time to build some motor mounts and get on with it.
 
Motor mount development is underway. I made some educated guesses and whipped up this first version(engine side). It needs to be revised, which is why it's not welded. I'll make some changes and see how it goes tomorrow night. Wasted a bunch of time tonight screwing with the Torchmate trying to get it to cooperate.

This design would work on the passenger side, but the bushing needs to sit tighter to the engine for the driver's side and I'd like to make them the same. Pardon the rough finish quality of the parts. These are fresh off the table and strictly proof of concept. I will almost definitely farm out actual production to a laser shop.
20141209_234148[1].jpg

20141209_234158[1].jpg
 
Looks good to me and better than anyone can do freehand with a torch. Kirk on this board used the stock fluid filled mounts from an ls2 powered trail blazer and built the stands like you are doing. I always thought the urethane bushings transmitted a lot of vibration to the chassis. Do you think there's a way to do this on your swap?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom