- Thread starter
- #21
Finished attaching the vacuum lines to the engine, intakes ready to bolt on? engine just about completed?
Builds 40 Series Chassis, 80 Series Suspension - Kept it Simply (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter watrob
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
Finally engine all completed!!!!
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
Still need a couple hose clamps, no?
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- #24
Three small ones and one more for the by-pass hose on the water pump housing, will do those when I do the radiators hoses. Just have to load the engine into the trailer and take it to Diesel Australia, they said they would time the injector pump free of charge as they serviced the IP for me?
Are you gonna paint the frame to match the axles? Whats this truck going to be used for?
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- #26
Going to etch prime & paint the chassis black this weekend.
Also had the new ARB bull bar sand blasted and hot dipped in gal. I asked the galvanizers not to quench the bull bar and have now taken it to Ace Powder Coaters to get in coated a black satin finish.
Also had the new ARB bull bar sand blasted and hot dipped in gal. I asked the galvanizers not to quench the bull bar and have now taken it to Ace Powder Coaters to get in coated a black satin finish.
NICE one,so you are running coils all round?
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- #29
Yes, coils all round, starting to put the chassis altogether this weekend. The left hand battery tray, radiator surround and the front guard brackets are ready to be picked up from the galvanisers after being hot dipped. Have painted all the disc brake caliper's front & rear also, the only part I have to get is the clutch slave cylinder for down on the fork on the bell housing.
MicahMan
TLCA 20925
This is sweet! My motor is not nearly that clean!
- Thread starter
- #31
Had my new ARB bullbar sand blasted, hot dipped in gal, epoxy primed and then re-powder coated black satin. You can see the hot dip gal ripple under the powder coat, managed to save the ARB sticker and re-attached it as well.
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- #32
Finished the over haul of the rear disc caliper's, primed and painted.
- Thread starter
- #33
Picked up my last lot of galvanised pieces, radiator surround, battery tray & bracket, guard brackets (they just sitting on the chassis for photos, its not the fitment position) and front chassis pieces.
The darker grey areas are etch primmer test spots, chassis and parts will be painted in gloss black.
The darker grey areas are etch primmer test spots, chassis and parts will be painted in gloss black.
i better come down and pick up that little white car before it gets damaged,and you won't drive it when the shorty is finished,seems a waste sitting there and i could put it to use,nice job on the shorty,real nice
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- #35
I think my wife would probably cut your fingers off if you did that as it's her car.
Anyway finished etch priming all the gal parts today, chassis etc. Once I have it sprayed gloss black I can start to put it together.
Your attention to detail leaves me green with envy. Looks great.
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- #37
Could some of the accomplished fabricators & engineers chime in with regards as to what shocks would work the best on this new chassis combo. The front will have a 12ht diesel and a heavy ARB bulbar. The body is a all fibreglass sports tub (with 6" extension in rear of tub) with half doors (as per my avatar). The current 40 series chassis has heavy duty Old Man Emu front leafs (heavy 2H & ARB bulbar) and medium leafs in the rear, as you can see the 40 sits pretty level.
The new chassis wheel base is now 96" up from 90", at this point I using the standard 80 series coils front & rear. The 40 will be on the beach full time and the main problem I see is when the beach has been chopped up by 10's of 4 wheel drives you get those large furrow tracks that tend to lock you in and throw you from side to side? Oh, yes I am using 60 series power steering this time instead of the 40 power steering but retaining the 32" alloy wheels.
The 40 will not be used for outback tracks or rocky climbs, but just general cruising, low tide on the beach is smoother than a hwy but as mention earlier high tide gets choppy?
The new chassis wheel base is now 96" up from 90", at this point I using the standard 80 series coils front & rear. The 40 will be on the beach full time and the main problem I see is when the beach has been chopped up by 10's of 4 wheel drives you get those large furrow tracks that tend to lock you in and throw you from side to side? Oh, yes I am using 60 series power steering this time instead of the 40 power steering but retaining the 32" alloy wheels.
The 40 will not be used for outback tracks or rocky climbs, but just general cruising, low tide on the beach is smoother than a hwy but as mention earlier high tide gets choppy?
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im gonna take a chance on the fingers,its worth a go i think,dam lucky wife you got
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- #39
Without finger how are you going to use the paddle shifters? let alone hold the steering wheel?
i would look at Bilstein,i ran them for years on my 40 and liked them,Pedders have a shock with the same specs which i am running now and 3 trips to the cape [i show no mercy either] plus i do a lot of sand work [Yeppoon area] like you describe and no complaints,you will most likely use a different length now with the mod,be interesting when you get shock length measurement,but in saying that I'm happy with Pedders and the price is pretty good,surprised you didn't go with 75 series diffs[disc all round ready to go] I'm running hzj75 in mine and love em,not giggle headed anymore,liking the build,i know what it takes and it is not easy hey?keep up the good work
