4 wire trailer plug and play kit (1 Viewer)

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I was able to knock this out in no time thanks to @jawjatek. Saved me a bunch of hassle. Bought the same unit at Autozone, re-wired per his pics and it worked perfectly!

THANK YOU!
 
I have no idea if anyone else has posted this or found this before, but I wanted to share.

The Hopkins 43315 ($25 from amazon, $40 from autozone) wiring kit for 1984-95 Toyota pickups and 1995-2004 Tacomas can be modified ever so slightly to work with a 60-series land cruiser. The plugs fit the LC, but the wires are in the wrong locations. Taking out the wires from the plugs isn't too hard and requires about 15 minutes of time. I used a long straight pick to lift the catches to removed the blades and receivers from the connectors. Then you need to replug in the wires into the correct locations. I did not record LC location list. However, wire colors are below. Anyway, once all of this is done, the kit is a "plug-in simple" (Hopkin's saying) for the LC and adding a four wire trailer connector requires no splicing or anything else into the factory wiring harness.

Hopkins wire///Toyota Wire///Function
Green///Green-Yellow///Right turn signal
Red///Green-White///Brakes
Yellow///Green-Black///Left Turn signal
Brown///Green///Tail lights
White///Brown///Ground
Anyway for FJ 60 a few pics of what it looks like AFTER you move the wires in the connectors (driver's side shown):
P1000962_zpsy9ckz0fx.jpg


P1000963_zpstvnzoicq.jpg


P1000961_zpsdhiy0zea.jpg


P1000960_zps6mpvkdaz.jpg


Driver's side connector picks up tail, brake, and left turn. So it has 3 pigtails to the black box. This pic is before I cut the 3 wires just after the wrap so I could route thru the grommet and trim the excess length. If you don't do this the grommet won't seal. I suppose you could slot the grommet, but I'd rather not. YMMV. If you have good solder equipment and shrink tube its very easy if a bit time consuming. I do not use crimp connectors if I can help it.

PS. Pass side only picks up right turn signal , so one wire. It goes to the tab side center slot of the connectors. The other 4 wires feed straight thru.
Note: On either R or L side connector, the center slot on tab (latch) side is the turn signal for that side.
Well its been a while since I have been on MUD....

Yes, the kit plugs into the drivers side rear tail light for the primary wires (the plug with more wires) and then on the passenger side with the connector with fewer wires.

I think the 60 and 62 taillights are the same, but I am not sure.
Well I hooked all this up like you guys said, and all the lights work on the truck, but when I plug it into the trailer i get nothing on the trailer lights, which i know work(just got it thru inspection) Its an hj61 JDM, would that have anything to do with it? Thanks alot, Joey
 
Man wish I had found this thread when I was doing my trailer wiring on the LC. I wired direct to the taillight using a splice. This would have been so much easier. Mine works and I used a CURT powered adapter but this looks like it would have been much easier. When I did mine I made a map of the LC wires. The wiring is included in this thread but maybe this would help someone visualize it better. Un plug the connector at the taillight and turn the truck side so you are looking into the plug. Then use the below diagram:

FJ60 Taillight.png


Still wished I could have used the Hopkins setup. Nice thread. Thanks.
 
This thread worked like a champ for me last month. I can now tow my little Bantam trailer.
 
I'm not really concerned about tee-ing into the stock harness. But we do need a converter for our trailer lights to work because we have a separate turn signal.
I used this years ago. The cut into the wires is inside the left interior panel (near the rear washer system). I keep my 4 wire connector for my trailer inside the cab. So when I tow I pull the harness out. It keeps it longer corrosion free.

61WXYlLI6kL._SL1500_.jpg
 
I'm not really concerned about tee-ing into the stock harness. But we do need a converter for our trailer lights to work because we have a separate turn signal.
I used this years ago. The cut into the wires is inside the left interior panel (near the rear washer system). I keep my 4 wire connector for my trailer inside the cab. So when I tow I pull the harness out. It keeps it longer corrosion free.

View attachment 1962351

Do they make a device like this with reverse? Im trying to get my trailer lights to operate just like my tail lights.

IMG_2142.jpg
 
Do they make a device like this with reverse? Im trying to get my trailer lights to operate just like my tail lights.

View attachment 1963987
So you would not use converter as you are pushing your tail light power to the same type of lights.

But 4 pin connector would not cut it for you. I suggest a custom connector of sorts. You will need to isolate the turn signal, L and Right, and stop, and reverse wires in the 60, label them. Extend them to a connector of sorts. And run the same amount of wires back to your lights in the trailer.

It would not be that hard, But it's totally unique and no one has this type of trailer lights. Do it wire by wire.
 
Well I hooked all this up like you guys said, and all the lights work on the truck, but when I plug it into the trailer i get nothing on the trailer lights, which i know work(just got it thru inspection) Its an hj61 JDM, would that have anything to do with it? Thanks alot, Joey

You may have a 24v truck and a trailer built for 12v.
 
yah but a trailer can have 24 volt lights put in. Not an issue if you can find ones that work in the sockets.
 
I have no idea if anyone else has posted this or found this before, but I wanted to share.

The Hopkins 43315 ($25 from amazon, $40 from autozone) wiring kit for 1984-95 Toyota pickups and 1995-2004 Tacomas can be modified ever so slightly to work with a 60-series land cruiser. The plugs fit the LC, but the wires are in the wrong locations. Taking out the wires from the plugs isn't too hard and requires about 15 minutes of time. I used a long straight pick to lift the catches to removed the blades and receivers from the connectors. Then you need to replug in the wires into the correct locations. I did not record LC location list. However, wire colors are below. Anyway, once all of this is done, the kit is a "plug-in simple" (Hopkin's saying) for the LC and adding a four wire trailer connector requires no splicing or anything else into the factory wiring harness.

Hopkins wire///Toyota Wire///Function
Green///Green-Yellow///Right turn signal
Red///Green-White///Brakes
Yellow///Green-Black///Left Turn signal
Brown///Green///Tail lights
White///Brown///Ground
Big shout out to Dazed!!

I used this kit to wire in a plug on my HJ61. At first I was worried if the black box that splices the wires together drew any power from the system since I am 24V. Could not find anything on their website so went ahead and ordered and still could not see anything on the box itself. I mapped out the wires to the correct lights and then switched the pins and it worked like a charm! I use a set of magnetic lights so I can hook up to any trailer and know they work. With a set of 24V LED bulbs I was in business.
 
Another satisfied '60!

Thanks @jawjatek and @Robert Franzke for their aide, innovation, and inspiration.

Got the ol' girl ready to haul dirt bikes again after I 'de-monkey'd' the P/O's trailer brake/4-pin/spark-shooter set up.

Bless from CA.
 
I found this thead last night, ordered the 43315 kit from a local autoparts store online and picked up when they opened this morning. I swapped the wiring around in the plugs while sitting through a long work meeting, and installed with no issues after I was done for the day.

I almost went with the universal kit that needs to be spliced in to the factory wiring, based on other threads on this subject, then I found this one and am glad I did. So simple!

I also added a 4-way to 4&7-way adapter under the bumper, so I can drag my old David Bradley trailer out camping this weekend (I wired it to run a 7-way harness so I can add brakes and accessory power later).

Looks like I'll be in the slow lane on the highway as I head to the woods, or perhaps I'll just stick to the 2 lane roads
 
This would be great if your trailer had LED lights. Otherwise, I would use a relay based kit that uses a 7-pin connector due to the current that incandescent bulbs draw.
 
This would be great if your trailer had LED lights. Otherwise, I would use a relay based kit that uses a 7-pin connector due to the current that incandescent bulbs draw.

Good point. My trailer had no lights to begin with, so when I wired it I used LED lights, so the draw is low(er).
 
I'm not really concerned about tee-ing into the stock harness. But we do need a converter for our trailer lights to work because we have a separate turn signal.
I used this years ago. The cut into the wires is inside the left interior panel (near the rear washer system). I keep my 4 wire connector for my trailer inside the cab. So when I tow I pull the harness out. It keeps it longer corrosion free.

View attachment 1962351

im currently having issues getting my turn signals to work on my trailer but i Have a signal coming from the 4 pin on the truck. The trailer itself has a brand new wiring set up and brand new bulbs and housing.

Any ideas?
 
im currently having issues getting my turn signals to work on my trailer but i Have a signal coming from the 4 pin on the truck. The trailer itself has a brand new wiring set up and brand new bulbs and housing.

Any ideas?

Always start with a DMM at 12v in these situations. Test the pins, then the lead at the bulbs, then the bulbs themselves.
Often, I find grounding issues are the cause.

Double check those too!

Good luck Tenn!
 
I ran a ground wire from the ball to the frame to help boost the trailer grounding. Sometimes there’s corrosion one the ball or paint on the hitch that messes with the ground.
 
I got sick of messing with frame grounds that never worked reliably and now run wires direct for all grounding duties. I run ground wire off the 4-pin ground front to back and tie it in direct to the lights ground wire. Overkill maybe, but its not even a thought for me when lights randomly don't work.
 
I got sick of messing with frame grounds that never worked reliably and now run wires direct for all grounding duties. I run ground wire off the 4-pin ground front to back and tie it in direct to the lights ground wire. Overkill maybe, but its not even a thought for me when lights randomly don't work.

hey man do you have a picture of where the ground wire connects actually to the lights?

I don’t believe my lights have the provision for a ground back there. It is just the turn signal and the running light, brake light
 

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