4" for $1K? (1 Viewer)

[skyline223]

Lay it on me..

My [probably] stupid thought... Can I achieve 4 inches of lift on my 80 for $1,000 - $1,500? This is a dream I have, though from many sources I have concluded that I am not going above 2.5" without dishing at least $3k.

Considering I would be doing all labor myself (minus alignment).. is this something that is possible? I don't want to jerry rig my rig.. I DO want to do it right, I just want to make sure that I am not missing something before I accept that I will have to spend 3k on a lift.

Thanks.

 

[scottryana]

Sure you can.

But you will have problems.

 

[skyline223]

Sure you can.

But you will have problems.

That's what I figured... well time to clock in some overtime! Guess I'll be saving for the Slee package.

 

[Qball]

Just look at the parts list and you know know why BUT the question is why do you want to go 4 inches? Is it because you want to run 37s? If not and budget is a constraint then look at 2.5-3 inch lifts where you won't have problems with lower budget. Don't go 4 inch lift because it sounds cool, go to 4 inch lift because you have reached the limitation of 2.5 inch lift.......btw that's a pretty tall order.

 

[skyline223]

Just look at the parts list and you know know why BUT the question is why do you want to go 4 inches? Is it because you want to run 37s? If not and budget is a constraint then look at 2.5-3 inch lifts where you won't have problems with lower budget. Don't go 4 inch lift because it sounds cool, go to 4 inch lift because you have reached the limitation of 2.5 inch lift.......btw that's a pretty tall order.

Those are good questions and points. I am currently setup with 35s but if I was going to do a lift once and for all I wanted it to be one that would give me the option of running 37s in the future. Sure it may be a bit stinkbug for now but I have long term plans for the cruiser that eventually include a re-gear, lockers, and as stated - option for 37s.

 

[skyline223]

So to clarify my position, somewhere in the madness of lift conversations I convinced myself that 4" was right at the top of the threshold of what was possible without getting into new panhard, driveshaft changes, etc..

Thanks for the clarifications though! Cheaping out isn't worth a compromise of safety. I'll go the extra mile and get it right with whatever I decide to do.

 

[landtank]

there is a full FOR lift for sale in the parts section for 2500.00. all brand new except the spring which only have a year on them.

 

[Qball]

3 or 2.5 is the threshold for DC drivshft, panhard rod, plates........


Now if you want to fit 37s there are ways to fit 37s on 2.5-3 inch suspension you just lose that one inch of up travel. The longer springs also will give you more droop.

The more I wheel the more that I'm convinced higher lift will give me extra clearance but unless i really hardcore rock crawl which I don't then I don't want 4 inch lift. But if you are looking at 37s then you probably are reaching the limits of 35s and 2 inch suspension.

 

[GW Nugget]

Why not do a 3" suspension & 1" body lift?
A 3" lift is more doable, but not for $1K unless you buy it all used... which is very possible if you have plenty of time to wait.
A lot of people run 37"s with the 850J/863 lift which is a 3.5" lift if lightly loaded.

 

[Walletclan]

You can get the OME 2.5" for less than $1000


Sent from my iPhone using my thumbs

 

[fatty chris]

I was able to achieve 4 inch lift with perfect caster and no drive shaft issues for less than $1500 but it was a lot of work.
Parts list
4 inch slee Springs front and rear
5 big Johnny joints
Metal tech upper and lower rear control arms
3 Parts Mike universal links
Ruff stuff frame and Axle link brackets
Extended Brake lines
Ford shock towers
Bilstien 7100 front 5125 rear shocks
4 more Johnny joints and dom tubing
Ruff stuff panhard frame and Axle brackets.
Tacoma rear driveshaft for front of fj80

Finished product = 3 link front with all the adjustment I will ever need.

 

[jfz80]

I see it's been recommended already but the 850J front, 863 rear, l shocks, castor plates and wait and see on driveshaft would be your closest bet

The 1" body lift on top of standard OME 2.5 lift that fits your cruisers weight class isn't a bad idea either. Stays away from castor issues that way as well as DC shafts

 

[slow95z]

i would also like to say a small body lift is the way to go after you have a 2.5 inch lift. gives you that extra little bit to fit 37s without driveshaft issues.

 

[skyline223]

Well thank you to all for the insightful advice. I really hadn't given much thought to a body lift but that sure could be a good option to gain the extra clearance. I will give that option some serious consideration.

What is the overall opinion on the Man-A-Fre 4" inch kit? I see that is basically OME J springs with 30mm spacers.

 

[bajaphile]

Well thank you to all for the insightful advice. I really hadn't given much thought to a body lift but that sure could be a good option to gain the extra clearance. I will give that option some serious consideration.

What is the overall opinion on the Man-A-Fre 4" inch kit? I see that is basically OME J springs with 30mm spacers.

The MAF 4" lift is yes basically just J springs with a 30mm front spacer... For caster correction they provide drop brackets for the frame mount side of your front lower control arms. I run them, and are great, but they do hang pretty low. I have the axle side brackets (Slee and Metaltech make them, among others) that I will install when I get a free second.

J springs (and OME L shocks) with caster correction brackets will get you ~4" and you will be able to drive it and wheel it without major issues. Then start saving for a DC front drive shaft (~$500). Then panhards to re-center the axles. The swaybar drop brackets can be made easily by hand or $50 from slee.

 

[skyline223]

The MAF 4" lift is yes basically just J springs with a 30mm front spacer... For caster correction they provide drop brackets for the frame mount side of your front lower control arms. I run them, and are great, but they do hang pretty low. I have the axle side brackets (Slee and Metaltech make them, among others) that I will install when I get a free second.

J springs (and OME L shocks) with caster correction brackets will get you ~4" and you will be able to drive it and wheel it without major issues. Then start saving for a DC front drive shaft (~$500). Then panhards to re-center the axles. The swaybar drop brackets can be made easily by hand or $50 from slee.

Thank you very much for this. Sounds like a pretty good plan, I'll probably steer in this direction.

 

[smittycrusher]

I think I did it for less than $1500 but mine is very much a bastard setup and took a while to evolve. Back in 2007, Phase 1 started with new OME shocks & stabilizer ($350), used OME heavy springs ($200) and swapped stock front control arms straight up for some that already had the OME bushings. I was pretty light then and I netted almost 3" lift with that setup. My buddy gave me some free bump stop drop blocks and sway bar drop blocks. Liked it a lot and wheeled it a lot. It worked for me. Shortly after that I was able to pick up some used Slee Front Control arms for $400 (I jumped on them even though I couldn't use them yet and they sat in my garage for five years). I did extend my brake lines shortly after this as well.

Fast Forward to 2013 and I had added a Warn 12k winch and dual batts. I now needed more lift up front to combat the weight. I bought new Ironman 4" coils and matching foam cell shocks for the front. I netted about 3.95" lift. I then added a free 1" spacer to the OME heavy coils in the and that put me about 3.9" lift in the rear. I did by new OME Sport L shocks for the rear from Kurt at this time (I think that was around $230 shipped). My Slee control arms were perfect for caster correction. I did have to lengthen my front driveshaft 1.25"

So here is my current setup with $
-Ironman 4" coils and foam cell shocks up front ($375 new)
-Slee Front Control Arms - Gen 1.5 ($400 used)
-OME Heavy coils in the rear ($100 used)
-OME Sport L shocks in rear ($230)
-bump stop and sway bar blocks (free)
-rear 1'' Ironman spacer (free)
-lengthen front driveshaft 1.25" ($100)
-OEM extended brake lines - see here ($130)

Total estimated - $1,335

Note that I have not done panhards or rear control arms. I honestly have not noticed any negative effects and it wheels great. I run 315s and do mild trails like Hole in the Rock.

Best,

Smitty

 

[SNLC]

You can do it under $1k but your shocks will suck.

Slee 4" spings will run about $500 so that only leaves $125 for each shock. That gets you really crappy shocks and it doesn't allow you to have any $$$ for sway bar extensions, bump drops, pandhard adjuster (needed) or extended brake lines, ect ect ect. So I am going to say, no you can't, not to do it right.

You will probably need the front DC shaft too, if you stay full time 4wd. I would just go to part time but I would also likely do the shaft.

You don't have to mess with caster plates and bushing and all that other junk to get caster right. The front axle can be cut & turned but with the stock steering configuration, you will only be able to gain 2-3*. If you went to cross over or Y-link steering you can rotate it as much as you like.

On my 80, I ran a bunch of OME springs (plus spacers) before getting the Slee's, should have just went Slees from the get go. I know most people love their OME but myself, I found them to not perform how I wanted. Shock wise, I went Fox remote resi at $250 a corner. If I did it again, I would go with a bigger shock and probably Kings. I went Y-link steering and c&t the front axle. Result was 4" of lift but I set caster at 4.5*. Lot's of work, well not as much as fabbing a 3-link but lot's more $$$ than just shocks and springs. I had an FJ60 split case so I was part time, never did the DC front shaft, it wouldn't have fit anyways since I was running a non-LC trans.


Cheers

 

[GW Nugget]

Js plus spacer up front...
You might as well go with a Slee set up.
The coils are much better I hear.
A 850J/863 will be 1" shorter.
The jump from 3" to 4" is a big deal.
3" seems to be the threshold. That extra 1" starts costing the big bucks.

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Why not do a 3" suspension & 1" body lift?
A 3" lift is more doable, but not for $1K unless you buy it all used... which is very possible if you have plenty of time to wait.
A lot of people run 37"s with the 850J/863 lift which is a 3.5" lift if lightly loaded.

my rig came with a 2 inch ome lift and a 2 inch body lift. I was skeptical on the body lift coming from the jeep world. After. Year of hard use and wheeling I have decided to keep the body lift. As long as the body lift is done right I think they work great on an 80. I clear 35s great so I am pretty sure a 2 inch lift with a 1 inch body would clear 35s. If you do a body lift just make sure to extend the steering shaft.