300 M rear axles and flanges

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Curious though does the 105 hub use a different spindle and hub bearing, or is it just a different wheel hub on the same old stuff?

Most full floating axles mirror the carrier bearing size for the inner hub bearing, if the carrier still fits the 9.5 third...

Wheel bearings are the same as every other cruiser since way back
 
No reason to change the hub, just use a new drive plate broached for 32 spline, and add your own method for retention (more dowels, larger hardware, etc) No reason to add more cost.
 
105 hubs are quite a bit beefier.

Bolt PCD for axle flange studs went from something like 94mm PCD to 106mm. Not certain of measurements, is a long time since I measured all this.

One thing that might be a fly in the ointment is the amount of material left on an 80series hub.
If a blank 80series hub was available to machine to suit 105series flange and hardware, there may not be enough meat at the outer diameter to capture the hardware due to greater diameter PCD and thicker hardware


Wheel centre hole is larger on 105 rims to cope with the bigger hubs

Someone needs to do some measuring

All parts we have here on the shelf... :D

IMO there simply isn't enough room on the 8x Series rear FF hub to drill to the larger 7x/10x drive flange/axle pattern and going with a bigger hub body diameter will require different wheel solutions in some cases.

20190919_163345.jpg

Hard to tell from the pic but the edge of the 7x/10x pattern is literally the outside diameter of the 8x hub shown
 
Curious though does the 105 hub use a different spindle and hub bearing, or is it just a different wheel hub on the same old stuff?

Most full floating axles (typically) mirror the carrier bearing size for the inner hub bearing, if the carrier still fits the 9.5 third...

Wheel bearings are the same. I'll have to pull a 7x/10x FF rear hub and compare it next to the 8x hubs we have here. While the wheel bearings might be the same, it's entirely possible the length and flange location changed. Will have to compare when time allows.
 
No reason to change the hub, just use a new drive plate broached for 32 spline, and add your own method for retention (more dowels, larger hardware, etc) No reason to add more cost.

And that is totally doable, we have customers buy the bigger 10mm hardware and upgrade their existing hubs (or use the SAE stuff as discussed a few pages back). Of course that is basically this kit: Nitro Pro Series Chromoly 32 spline Upgrade Axle Kit
 
Question did the 105 get bigger brakes front and rear, or was it 80 brakes?

Late style hubs have to be bigger OD in order to accommodate cone washers on 10mm studs (bigger OD is slightly better at handling torque). Studs are unquestionably the correct way to fasten that joint, but I am not willing to change the hub on my axles I'll machine to suit.

When making custom "junk" and strength is the design impetus I always use the biggest hardware that will fit the space, between standard and metric (caveat is needed clamp load; think thread pitch). Since the mode here is strength I'll run fine thread, but its less desirable to me in
spots that can be contaminated with dirt (fine thread is sensitive to debris, but offers a higher clamp load)...

10mm = .393" x 6 = 2.362 of cross sectional thickness (on a slightly bigger hub diameter)
7/16" = .437" x 6 = 2.625 of cross sectional thickness (on slightly smaller hub diameter)

M10 x 1.25 (8.8) = 40.5 ft lbs (55 NM)
7/16-20 (grade 8) = 55 ft lbs (74.5NM) (remember the hub is cast, sticking to grade 5 torque spec here)
 
Wheel bearings are the same. I'll have to pull a 7x/10x FF rear hub and compare it next to the 8x hubs we have here. While the wheel bearings might be the same, it's entirely possible the length and flange location changed. Will have to compare when time allows.

Spindles are the same.
Brake rotors have a different offset to 80s, but I can't remember if the hub has a different offset
 
A lot of the parts on these trucks just aren’t necessary, you can kind of pick and choose which ones you want to use. For example, I only run 1 bearing in the hubs. Saves weight and less drag.

How much weight is saved, and how much drag is really lost versus the risks of not running two? Serious question, because when you're talking about a beast like an 80, is that weight saving even noticed?
 
How much weight is saved, and how much drag is really lost versus the risks of not running two? Serious question, because when you're talking about a beast like an 80, is that weight saving even noticed?
Rotating mass is much more noticeable than total mass.
 
Yep that is exactly what I want, but from RCV and not Nitro given my track history with Nitro rear shafts. lol.

X2! - 32 spline kit from RCV
 
How much weight is saved, and how much drag is really lost versus the risks of not running two? Serious question, because when you're talking about a beast like an 80, is that weight saving even noticed?
He's kidding. You have to run 2 bearings.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom