2F into a 72 FJ40 need transmission advice (1 Viewer)

[Jdc1]

I guess a little is all we are talking about - I want another comfortable 5 mph at the top end. But as far as I can tell from Specter, after shipping it’s $600 to get a set of locking hubs. I want to make sure this will benefit me $600 worth before buying. I’m already so deep in this vehicle every penny counts now

Spector’s prices are high. Cruiser Outfitters, Cruiser Corps, Valley Hybrids or other Mud vendors prices are a lot better. The classifieds here are a great option as well.

Do you know what diffs are in your 40? You can go with a taller tire or the later 3.70 gears to get better hwy performance.

 

[96 Bronco]

I have personally installed the 3:73 gears and have 33x10.5 tires. I’ve done everything people say, that is why I don’t understand my performance issues. I’ve joined the local LandCruiser club and hopefully someone can drive it and see something I’m missing

 

[mrboatman]

I`m running a 69 with the F engine 3 speed and can do 70 at about 3000 rpm with 4.11 gears. You might look at your jets in the carb I would think you should pull better than that at hwy speed.
JP

 

[RustyRanger]

I have personally installed the 3:73 gears and have 33x10.5 tires. I’ve done everything people say, that is why I don’t understand my performance issues. I’ve joined the local LandCruiser club and hopefully someone can drive it and see something I’m missing

If you drop a gear, accelerate to 70 and then shift into 4th can you hold the speed easily or do you have to mash the fuel to hold it? With that combo your running between 2200-2300rpm at 60. I'm not sure what the toruqe curve on a 2f is.

If the other fj40 with the F engine had the original 4.11 gears, depending on tire size it would be up around 2600-3000rpm at 60.

 

[pb4ugo]

You might consider, pulling your drive flanges and see if it makes a difference. Back in the day, adding lockouts on full time 4x4's did increase mpg's slightly, which implys there's rolling resistence with the hubs locked. I'd also look at trying to fine tune the engine.

 

[96 Bronco]

I’m leaning towards the tuning. Getting a pro to set timing and fuel mixture. I will report back when fixed

 

[96 Bronco]

i found a local 1 man garage that knew cruisers. I went over there and he had a customers FJ43 and his personal FJ40. I'm going to let him evaluate it and do and tuning required. I think i will also search for the hubs on my own as it seems every HP counts. I have the old 6 spline axles - pic attached. I still have my second 3rd member on the bench to install in my front axle. Does anyone know if I'm going to have spline issues between the axle and spider gears? Are the inner splines on my axle also 6 spline? Would it be cheaper to source a whole front axle from a parts vehicle?


pb4ugo - how do you pull your drive flanges without the axle walking out? i'd definitely like to try that first

 

[96 Bronco]

forgot pic - again

 

[MoCoNative]

The axle will not walk out of the spindle if the drive flange is removed. Behind the spindle in the axle ball area the axle expands into a bell to house the birfield CV joint and rides in a brass bushing in the back of the spindle. As long as you are in 2WD it will just lay static. Do your trip on a calm dry day, as the greasy shaft will attract dirt, you don't want migrating into the spindle and brash bushing and birfield area.

Unless you plan on doing crazy hard wheeling, the Selectro hubs were decent. My set has been on mine since the beginning and still work fine. There is a cammed piece that locks them in and out. I did have to replace it on both sides now. Some will say they are bad hubs, as the selector face is only held on by a couple screws and in a bind they can push it off. Hard rock hit the face could cause damage too I suppose.

Sadly I just searched some and couldn't find any new anymore. Mile Marker bought out Selectro many years ago, they carried their line for awhile, but not don't see any listed for the pre 75 cruiser. Their parts listings are wrong, it brings up the 26 spline pickup hubs for our trucks, that is wrong. I think only the classic Selectro, 6 spline hub was all they ever had for an early cruiser.

Warn used to make some, same deal, can't find them listed. AVM also makes some, those are still available I think. Best source is here on MUD used probably, should be some Selectros and Warns out there. Unlocking the front end does help with drag, but you should still be able to push through it down the highway. A tune should help you.

I'm still concerned if you left that spacer out, you could be walking the input gear into the front of the transfer case. It will ruin the seal first I suspect, then you will start transfering fluid between the cases and oddly the transfer will pump its fluid uphill and overfill the tranny.

 

[Casey E]

More than once I have seen people not getting full throttle when the pedal is all the way down. Easy to check.

 

[pb4ugo]

As MoCo said. the frt axle will stay in place and not spin. . You can just remove the flanges. To keep dirt out you could remove the rim and slide a plastic bag over the hub and put the rim back on pinching the bag or plastic between rim on drum.

Casey has a good suggestion, by checking if you are getting wot at the carb when the accelerator is floored.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Sounds like you're not getting full power at high RPM. Are you sure your distributor advance is working? If not it behaves like this. Good power and grunt down low, and no power up top. The fact the front diff is turning is a MINOR source of power loss.

 

[96 Bronco]

thanks for all the responses.

FOMOCO - I've read that thread you suggested and yes - he had more and different length spaces than i did. I've also read numerous threads were people repeatedly say all you need is the input gear and PTO gear or PTO gear spacer. I don't know! its very disheartening to think about pulling the whole thing again. I may cut my cross- member just for future access so I can remove just the t-case now. Also - for paved road only driving - doesn't the skid plate accomplish the same thing the cross member does? Just a thought

I will definitely pull the drive flange and see what happens - if nothing else it should eliminate SOME noise right?

don't believe the problem is my distributor, as my 1F had a stock distributor, then I did the Pertronix ugrade, and now my 2F came with a DUI distributor - same thing with each setup

to check for full throttle I guess I just manipulate the linkage by hand - then with a helper see if the pedal gets the linkage to move the same distance?


thanks again

 

[4Cruisers]

See my Post #13,332 here What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? on how I fixed an issue on my '76 FJ40 - not being able to fully depress the accelerator pedal. I had to do the same (temporary) fix on my '71 FJ40 yesterday as I get it ready for the build.

 

[96 Bronco]

WARN ~ a superior hub that operates reliably in all conditions!

Hubs WARN Locking - WARN, Premium Manual Hubs... These premium locking hubs were a Dealer installed item on Land Cruisers 8/'80 and older. Hubs allow front end to disengage, reducing wear and tear and improving gas mileage. Premium Manual Hubs A testament to the dominance of Warn Premium Manual...

www.coolcruisers.com

reasonably priced ($200) 6 spline hubs on CCOT site. never heard of this brand. I'll try to drive with the drive flanges off first and see if it makes a difference

 

[65swb45]

I’ve had these pulled off the shelf and on the shop floor for two weeks now waiting to take pics and post:

For Sale - SoCal: Sears/Selectro Hubs, one NOS

One slightly used. Coarse spline. $100/Pr and $20 to ship. PP friends and family accepted. No PMs please.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[96 Bronco]

I'm glad you waited. For that price its worth it just to get them.

 

[MoCoNative]

For Mark, you're in tune with the older parts, are the hub manufactures actually done with the 6 spline hubs. My search yesterday showed listings from Mile Marker and Warn, but I could not find the hubs anywhere new. Seems odd they have totally dropped them from production. Also note, the Mile Marker website is screwed up, their parts listings show the same hub for early Cruisers and the Hilux/4runner line, obviously incorrect. The correct hub is not listed on their site anymore. Warn website did not show the 6 splines anywhere anymore either.

 

[96 Bronco]

Another nagging issue, I have a small coolant leak that keeps surfacing on and around the first head bolt and this recessed Allen head plug adjacent to it. Any clue? I don’t think it’s coming from the upper radiator hose or the bypass hose. I’m worried it’s creeping through the head bolt - but my oil looks perfect. I drive it and check it everyday

 

[Dizzy]

At what point did this 2F engine receive an F air cleaner? Were the head bolts loosened and torqued in accordance with the manual?