2F into a 72 FJ40 need transmission advice (7 Viewers)

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@96 Bronco

If you get a chance, could you post some detailed photos of the Brake Booster and Master Cylinder setup? How is it spaced away from the firewall? Do you happen to know what Brake Booster and MC that is.

Thanks. :)

1907448
 
It’s a JT outfitters bracket, booster from 87 Toyota pickup, and master from same truck - I think (it’s from JT outfitters also). Very, very tight to factory carb and air cleaner

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I wouldn’t recommend the master, single resovoir and the front port being vertical and it’s line having the loop in it caused me some issues with bleeding. I’ll replace it sometime soon - but let me get this new motor and trans in first
 
Now I am thoroughly confused. I’ve got everything together where I can run it with a bled clutch. Starts with the clutch in in neutral fine, if I let out off the clutch with transmission still in neutral - it starts to drive forward. What is going on here. Am I in bizarro world? If I let out off clutch with it in first gear it goes nowhere. It pulls forward in every other forward gear. Reverse does nothing
 
While I'm waiting for some insight from the forum I'll share my list of other items to consider when doing the 3 spd transfer case to 4 speed transmission swap - with a little 1F to 2F guidance thrown in for good measure

  1. Obviously everyone knows you need the conversion input gear and rear bearing for the transfer case
  2. You also need the transfer case mounting bolts from a 4 speed transfer case - they are longer. The threads on the 4 speed transmission start deeper inside the case and your 3 speed bolts will not even catch the first thread. these bolts are not available from Toyota or McMaster Carr in the length you need.
  3. You also need internal spacers to replace the existing PTO gear in your transfer case because the PTO gear is the old 10 spline. I bought mine from Advance Adapters.
  4. There is also a spacer required outside the transfer case because you will still have an inch plus of splines before you get to the threads. Advance Adapters told me to just cut a piece of pipe to length. Picture below of this before I put the nose cone on.
  5. Linkage! Also see my picture of the interior with the transmission in place. I don't see any way the stock linage would work with my seat configuration. See the floor has a raised hump to facilitate the high low selector linkage - the 4spd moves this back a few inches, and does not fit under the hump. I've seen threads that said to clearance it by hitting the floor in, but I think that would mess up my gas tank orientation and seat mounts - they are all right in that same area. I ordered a twin stick kit from AA to hopefully remedy this - but it hasn't shipped in yet.
  6. Driveshafts - this is documented on Mud. I pulled the slip yoke out and used my 3 spd upper portion to attach to the e-brake drum and the 4 spd driveshaft to attach to the rear axle pinion. I have done a 3:73 gear swap in the rear so i already had a correctly splined pinion yoke.
  7. Clutch slave cylinder - I ordered a new slave cylinder and a longer hydraulic line b/c now its mounted on the passenger side. The rear motor mount accepted the slave.

2f swap issues

The motor mounts look the same between the 1F and 2F, but the bolt holes and bolts are bigger in the 2F block. My 2F did not come with all the mounts so I had to reuse my old ones. I had to drill them out and go source new larger bolts to fit the existing tapped holes in the block and bellhousing - so check your bolts before you get started.

I reused my 1F intake and exhaust manifolds on the 2F motor - no issues except I had to ream the mount holes out slightly b/c the studs are different between the 2 engines. This is documented on MUD

I reused my 1F fan and water pump pulley - but the alternator bracket did not line up. i had to use the 2F alternator bracket and go source a 48" belt from NAPA.


Again - I really need help on this transmission issue described a couple posts above - any help would be greatly appreciated

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I remember having a similar problem lining up the shifter and thins being locked, but I can't recall the full issue. I seem to recall the reverse idler gear swinging out of position and locking things up somehow. I'd pull the whole top and check it out.
 
Can you guys tell anything from these pics? I see the 2 grooves in the gearbox that the forks slide over, and they push forward and back a bit. Are they supposed to forward or back for neutral? I fiddled with the top cover, got everything to neutral and put it back on, same problem. But I was just guessing at putting it back - no clue if I need to adjust a gear or not

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Yes. Will move a bit in both directions. When I put the cover back on I could get 1st and 2nd and reverse. No 3rd or 4rth
 
I’ll give it another try tonight and take note of the bearing for you. I read in some other posts that I can slide the gears back and forth and find a neutral detent
 
What is the history of this gear box? Was it ever rebuilt? If your outter snap ring on the front input bearing is compromised, then I could see how it could affect the input shaft and output shaft.\

If those teeth are missing on third gear, then I'd try to find them, but I'm just guessing based on the pixels. Is the gear oil in there new? Or, did you notice anything when you changed the gear oil?
 
i got the transmission with my motor off the classifieds here on mud from a running and driving cruiser. PO said it ran and drove great, from how healthy the motor sounds and the new freeze plugs in the block indicating the motor was rebuilt like he said, I don't see any reason to doubt him. I took the shifter out in the back of my truck as I was loading it, and it was really cold - I may have not put the transmission in neutral when I did this, or something shifted on the long drive home?

when I look at the pic of the gears on my phone so I can blow it up, that is a flat spot that has no sign of teeth being sheared off or broken - looks perfectly flat. i don't know what it is
 
I think there are gaps in that ring, that is the syncro, maybe they help in oiling, or noise, I'm not a gear engineer. I think the large collar for 1/2 is still engaged. It can be difficult to move as I recall. I remember missing the little rounded nub for the reverse gear when I was messing with mine. It puts the reverse gear, which is hanging down in the case on that arm in the wrong spot, I think that can lock things up too. It is controlled by the small shift fork with the little fork on the end.

Do you still have the driveshaft off. If someone can turn the output of the transfer case, with the case in 2wd or 4wd, as you move the shift collars back and forth you will stop them as you put it into a gear. When you slide them back to true disengaged/neutral, they will be able to keep turning it back through the tranny. In other words as you engage the gears, with the input stuck against the clutch/engine, you will know if a gear is engaged or not.
 

Big thread on tranny rebuild, may have good info here for you.
 

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