2f install (1 Viewer)

[74fj40Oregon]

Hey all, I am doing a 2F swap from the F motor that I originally had in my 74. My FJ Has a four-speed transmission that was married to the F motor. My question is will the 2F bolt up to the transmission with no problems I was told it would but wanted to double check with you guys. Any other related issues or concerns I should have I would love to hear thanks so much.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Yes, it will bolt up like it was meant to be.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Might think about keeping the manifolds, it will save you some grief with the carb and air filter.

 

[3_puppies]

you may need to re-wire a few things, alternator on other side of engine and maybe the oil preasure switch, if staying with original manifolds you won't have issues with which throttle assembly.

 

[Jdc1]

Watch your fan clearance at the radiator.

 

[igotta40]

When I did the same on my 1974 I used the flywheel from the F motor and now I wish I hadn’t.

 

[Rocky_LC]

3_Puppies is right.

I had to do a bunch of fabrication of the throttle linkage because I used the "new" (2F) manifolds.

I'm happy with my swap (it's probably been about 8 years now) but it was a PIA when I was doing it.

I basically took the FJ-60 throttle bracketry and mounted them onto my firewall, and had to shorten a few things....

Everything else is pretty straightforward.

Rocky

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

When I did the same on my 1974 I used the flywheel from the F motor and now I wish I hadn’t.

Why?

 

[74fj40Oregon]

Thanks for all of this ! This is what I’m working with I guess I will just trial and error when I get to that point with the linkage.

 

[hobbes]

Should bolt right up. Having done a couple iterations of this, my recommendation is use later model clutch setup (including p/s slave). I’m using my 74 intake so the carb doesn’t hit the OEM brake master. The fan will be closer to the radiator. You can slot the mount and slide the radiator forward a bit. The old shroud works (I’m still using it), but it would be better to move to the later model shroud since the fan sits further forward. I’ve got one in a box to use when I get to it. No cooling issues though. I had some after market carb that used a cable, so I had to start from scratch for the linkage. I think if you keep the 74 intake, that would stay the same (or close enough). But not positive on that.

My clutch saga...

Mixing clutch slave parts from different years

When I'm driving my clutch release point seems to move around occasionally. This most often occurs on first start of the day, but not always. First thought was a bleed problem since pumping the clutch fixes it, but bleeding it doesn't seem to help. My truck has gone through three engine...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[74fj40Oregon]

Should bolt right up. Having done a couple iterations of this, my recommendation is use later model clutch setup (including p/s slave). I’m using my 74 intake so the carb doesn’t hit the OEM brake master. The fan will be closer to the radiator. You can slot the mount and slide the radiator forward a bit. The old shroud works (I’m still using it), but it would be better to move to the later model shroud since the fan sits further forward. I’ve got one in a box to use when I get to it. No cooling issues though. I had some after market carb that used a cable, so I had to start from scratch for the linkage. I think if you keep the 74 intake, that would stay the same (or close enough). But not positive on that.

My clutch saga...

Mixing clutch slave parts from different years

When I'm driving my clutch release point seems to move around occasionally. This most often occurs on first start of the day, but not always. First thought was a bleed problem since pumping the clutch fixes it, but bleeding it doesn't seem to help. My truck has gone through three engine...

forum.ih8mud.com

ok thats all great info thanks a bunch ! I do have the old intake still and you are saying that there is no issues with putting that on the 2f motor ? also does everything bolt up fine when doing so ?

 

[igotta40]

Why?

Because I had to use the early 3 finger clutch instead of the later diaphragm type.

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

Because I had to use the early 3 finger clutch instead of the later diaphragm type.

Same one I'm running, I don't have any issues with the 3 finger.

 

[FishTacos]

ok thats all great info thanks a bunch ! I do have the old intake still and you are saying that there is no issues with putting that on the 2f motor ? also does everything bolt up fine when doing so ?

That is preferable for fitment of other things around the engine bay. Headers are notorious for creating vacuum and/or exhaust leaks.

I hope you didn't scrap the old F engine (probably an F-and-a-half?)

 

[74fj40Oregon]

That is preferable for fitment of other things around the engine bay. Headers are notorious for creating vacuum and/or exhaust leaks.

I hope you didn't scrap the old F engine (probably an F-and-a-half?)

no I still have the f motor, what are you saying about vacum leaks ? it was running in my buddies 1975 when we pulled it and runs fine like a top curious on what you are suggesting

 

[pjohnson]

That's not an OEM carb, looks kinda like a Rochester(?).
I think @FishTacos means that getting a header and intake to seal properly can be a pita due to flange thickness and stud size differences. They bolt on together with a single gasket.

 

[FishTacos]

I wasn't clear. That is exactly what I meant. It can certainly be done and it has been. If by some miracle (or by the vigilant work of a very good machinist) the flange on the header and The flange on the intake are the same thickness (+/- .001") the system will not leak if provided with equal clamping pressure. The original equipment intake/exhaust manifold also must be flat and the "ears" (the relief into which a washer sits where the studs and bolts pass into the head) should be checked with a micrometer to ensure they are the same thickness. But that happened once in a factory in Toyohashi, Japan so it is likely to be much closer to spec.

Also, there is no real performance benefit realized from a header on the 2F. Some might disagree, and there is the benefit of knowing you will not crack your intake manifold with hot exhaust gasses. But freezing the flapper in the diverted position or installing a block off plate between the two halves of the OEM I/E manifold ensures this also.

Short version: if I were in your shoes I would put the intake from the old F engine on the new 2F engine eventaully. Check it with a straight edge to be sure it is flat. Do the same with the head, get an oem toyota gasket, and torque it together. Unless you have an engine stand it would be safest and easiest to do that after you install it in the truck anyway.

It may be tempting to leave it as is because it is all together and ran just fine. I wouldn't blame you if you did. Come to think of it, just run it with the header for a while. If it works well...great. But dont get rid of the old engine and it's I/E manifold, carb, and down pipe. You may want them. They do swap directly.

 

[hobbes]

ok thats all great info thanks a bunch ! I do have the old intake still and you are saying that there is no issues with putting that on the 2f motor ? also does everything bolt up fine when doing so ?

Short answer: Correct. Yes.
Medium answer: Have a thought about where where are going with this and what should be done at this point to save you the most headache in the future.
Longer answer: Swapping engines can be a can of worms just due to the "while you are at there" situation and what parts you want to wind up with. You have to draw a line somewhere. The simplest thing to do is strip the 2F down to the block, pull the .5F, swap everything over to the 2F, and reinstall. It's that easy.

Or is it? Most everyone (including myself) will recommend changing the rear main seal, oil pan gasket, throw out bearing, and reseal the front of the transmission at this point unless you KNOW it has been recently done. These parts are very cheap and it really doesn't take much time. "While you are there" have a think about the clutch (new?, which bell housing are you using?, how's the fork?). Just don't mix and match. If the "new" engine has any leaks, it is much easier to reseal it now (valve cover, side cover, maybe front cover though that's more work). What carb are you going to use? What linkage are you going to use? Which air cleaner are you going to use? Power steering plays better with the later model air cleaners. Everything swaps just fine, so that part isn't in question. I went 1974 .5F to 1975 2F to 1987 2F. On my 75 engine I used my 74 intake. On my 87 motor I was able to keep the 87 intake. On my final iteration I used the 1987 carb, dizzy, alternator, power steering pump, etc. It all bolts on. The later model starters are much better/lighter.

Consider getting a new oil pressure sender if yours is old. As they age, they can show lower oil pressure and give you a scare.

Consider removing and resealing the thermostat housing. Those bolts and break. Simple repair on a stand. More effort in the vehicle.

Exhaust manifolds are notorious for leaks. Headers are worse for that. I personally went 3F exhaust manifolds. The 60 guys just toss them so they are cheap.

Save all your old stuff until you are happy with the new stuff. If not, swap back. Its all what you want.

HTHs....

 

[Dizzy]

That is a Weber, and a crack-repaired intake manifold. I fairly certain that mid-F and 2F locate the carbs at different locations; don't know about .5. What did it come with for a fuel pump?

What head stud size did the .5F use?

 

[hobbes]

Whats the VIN off your block? Does it match your frame? If it matches your block, you might consider holding on to it. You’ll get more money in a resell even if it’s not installed or toast.