2F Ignition updgrade

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Condenser is in green circle. Condenser probably available at any parts store. Excuse my primative computater skills but I hope the pic. helps. Blue line indicates wire from ign. switch to ballast resister and from other end of ballast resister to pos. side of coil. Green line indicates wire from coil neg. to distributor. The condenser uses the screw on dist. for mounting.
001.webp
003.webp
 
yea...that helps.

thanks.

Were there years of 2F engines that a condensor can be sourced for?

Also, just looking at replacement parts....is there a solution where a new coil can be bought to eliminate the resistor and ignitor? I guess my question is, what is the simplest way that I can wire it up where it will run reliably without burning anything up.

The plan is to try and 'hot wire' it tomorrow and see if it will run, to see if the coil is good.
 
Last edited:
Mine's a '75 so that's what I ask for. I'm lucky enough to have a Car Quest parts distributor about a mile from my house, but I've found them at Kragen's (O' rilley's) or Napa. I'm sure Toyota would have it. Worse case, rockauto.com will have it. When I order from rockauto, I go whole hog and pick up a cap, rotor, points, and plugs. To answer your question, yes you can buy an internally resisted coil , I think any auto parts store will have one, and wire it up, bypassing the ballast resister, in other words, black wire with yellow stripe from ign. switch to pos. terminal on coil, and then a wire from coil neg. to dissy. Again, this is
the way my '75 is wired . I hope this helps.
 
Well My distributor looks different...doesn't appear to be setup for a condenser. can it be retrofitted?

Now my question is, due to the fact that some of the ignition parts are NLA, what is the best route if I wanted to upgrade to a system that can be fixed more easily? The Pertronix setup? What if I wanted to keep the points, then what? Just an internally resisted coil? How would I go about wiring in a generic condenser? What about the ignitor? Is that needed regardless whenever using points?

Thanks
 
onemanarmy said:
Well My distributor looks different...doesn't appear to be setup for a condenser. can it be retrofitted?

Now my question is, due to the fact that some of the ignition parts are NLA, what is the best route if I wanted to upgrade to a system that can be fixed more easily? The Pertronix setup? What if I wanted to keep the points, then what? Just an internally resisted coil? How would I go about wiring in a generic condenser? What about the ignitor? Is that needed regardless whenever using points?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Pertronix. I put one in my '77 and never gave it another thought for ten years.
 
That's prob what I'll do. Looks like Marks Off-road may have what I need. Kinda just want to try out a new coil and eliminate the resistor first.

Just tried to jump the coil by running a wire from battery pos. To coil pos. And a wire from distributor to coil neg. And it started..... But ran very poorly, low rpms, sounded like it was missing, and eventually shut off. When I tried another stock setup over the weekend... It fired up and ran great.

Bad coil?
 
If you go Pertronix, buy two and keep one in the glove box or at least have a known good points set-up that you can swap in in a pinch. I have had a Pertronix to fail on me leaving me stranded once. Not one of my best days......
 
/this\

I have had one Pertronix fail on one of my three rigs that run them. PUt the point back in and got back on my way.

FWIW, that is one of the advantages of staying with the I instead of the II: coil compatibility with points.

Best

Mark
 
65swb45 said:
/this\

I have had one Pertronix fail on one of my three rigs that run them. PUt the point back in and got back on my way.

FWIW, that is one of the advantages of staying with the I instead of the II: coil compatibility with points.

Best

Mark
Click to expand...

So if I want to keep the points/distributor I have now, that function fine, what can I buy (coil wise and anything else that is needed) to replace what I have now and maintain reliability?

Thanks
 
[QUOTE="onemanarmy, UPDATE.....tried a coil/ignitor/resistor off another 1977. Fired right up. [/QUOTE]

Well that's three parts you swapped and went from running to not running. The coil is now new, so, bypass the resistor. if it fires up it's the resistor. If it still doesn't run I'd deduce it's the ignitor.
 
Yep. Thats the plan.

However....I've read a few posts where the ignitor and resistor was bypassed...in effect 'hot wiring' the system. Well I tried that with the stock coil and the replacement coil. Same outcome. The engine started, but ran very poorly for 30 seconds or so and woould not rev up, and then cut off. Hard to start again, so I quit trying. It has been mentioned a few times in this thread that bypassing the ignitor would 'get me home' if it failed, but that does not seem to be the case. My distributor/points/plugs/wires are all good, like I mentioned before....it ran great with a borrowed 1977 setup from a 40 (that was using the same aftermarket coil that I bought)

Also, it appears that the resistor may not be needed with an aftermarket 12V 'internally resisted' coil, but have not seen where anyone has bypassed the resistor with the factory points and an aftermarket coil.

I have read where an ignitor from a GM? vehicle was made to work, I may try that as well. I thought the ignitor was just used for points style ignitions, but the 60s have an ignitor (but no resistor) and no points? I'm now believing the ignitor is suspect, so I'll look further into that. Doesn't look to me like the 'resistor' can go bad....it just slows the flow of current, and at worst the engine would fire but may not be good for longevity. Right?

Anyone out there used an aftermarket coil but changed nothing else on a points ignition?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
I ran my '75 for many years with stock points distributor, internally resisted coil, no igniter or ballast resistor with no problems.
 
us the cool you have internally resisted? If so just run the coil no igniter and no resistor

I have an aftermarket coil... Jacobs ... But it's not internally resisted ... So I use a resistor ... Painted it black ... Looks stock :)
 
skidplate said:
I ran my '75 for many years with stock points distributor, internally resisted coil, no igniter or ballast resistor with no problems.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'd actually read where you posted that in another thread.....but can't figure out (understand) how that would work. I think the 75 setup is the same (or very similar) to my 77.

I tried to 'hotwire' my coil....both old stock and new aftermarket, (basically what you had done) and mine ran, but VERY poorly, and only for 30 seconds before it shut itself off. Not healthy at all.
 
JohnnyC said:
us the cool you have internally resisted? If so just run the coil no igniter and no resistor

I have an aftermarket coil... Jacobs ... But it's not internally resisted ... So I use a resistor ... Painted it black ... Looks stock :)
Click to expand...

Coil doesn't say anything about being internally or externally resisted. (Accel 8140)

I tried to crank it with and without the resistor wired in, not change (no crank)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom