2F Ignition updgrade

[onemanarmy]

ok. so I've done that.....with the key on, points closed, I put the red lead onto the coil, and touch the black lead to the neg. post on the battery...I get 12V.

 

[Pin_Head]

And what do you get on the - side of the coil?

 

[onemanarmy]

well I haven't really checked that, will try and get my this afternoon to check.

Is there a way to check the ignitor? Do they go bad/blow fuses/ anything like that?

 

[Pin_Head]

I am trying to help you check the ignitor, but you never seem to do what I ask.

 

[onemanarmy]

Man. I am trying. I get 12V at the ignitor stud (stud on top) with the key on. Ive checked (I think) everything that has a power wire going to it with my tester. I must not be picking up what you are putting down very clearly. I'm gonna get back after it this afternoon and will post up some pics of where I test and the values I get.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[Pin_Head]

I asked what is the voltage on the + and - side of the coil with the key on and the points closed. You only said there is 12V on the + side.

12V is too high for a ballast resistor system that is functioning properly. This suggests that the circuit is open; either a bad coil (unlikely) bad ignitor or bad points. If you have 12V on the - side also, then either the ignitor or points is bad. If you have 0V on the coil side then the coil may be bad (open).

 

[78fj40mg]

I am trying to help you check the ignitor, but you never seem to do what I ask.

 

[CUSailor]

Rather than start a new thread I figured I'd ask on here as it seems where the experts already are. I am also trouble shooting ignition problems after having some shorts fry a couple of wires. Gotten to the point I'll get it to turn over but not crank. When checking the coil I noticed primary resistance was spot on, 1.2 ohms, but secondary resistance was at 7,550 ohms (should be 8,900). I know that lower resistance can lead to a weak spark, but is 1,400 ohms enough to cause the problems or should I go deeper? I don't think it is the distributor as this seems to be a totally electrical problem, although I may need to open it up and take a look. I've got a '79, so I don't believe there is an external resistor to check.

 

[onemanarmy]

Just checked......with the key on and points closed and the black lead of my tester touching the neg battery post, I get 12 V at both outputs of the coil. I get 12V at all studs coming off the coil.
And I get 12V at ignitor stud using same method.

 

[onemanarmy]

I've got an 1983 FJ 60 that runs...will that coil/ignitor work for testing?
It looks slightly different.... Not same part number.

 

[onemanarmy]

Just did the coil test on the fj60.....got 12 V on both sides of the coil with points closed and key on.

 

[John McVicker]

Onemanarmy, if I interpret the last paragraph in Pin's post #66, you have at least 1 of 3 thing that could be the culprit.

1) Bad COIL. (He said this is not likely)

2) Bad IGNITER

3) Bad POINTS

JOHN

 

[onemanarmy]

That's what I'm thinking.... But my good coil/ignitor on my fj60 tests the same as the fj55 coil, which is suspect.

Thanks

 

[Pin_Head]

FJ 60 does not have points, so you will not get the same type of readings on it.

I don't get it. What is so hard about reading the voltage on the - side of the coil? You already did the + terminal and it is just the other terminal marked -.

You can get both readings for the same amount of work.

I won't be able to reply for 10 days because I will be in French Polynesia on a 20 meter catamaran. No internet service. I didn't want you to think that I had no patience.

 

[onemanarmy]

But I did test....I posted the findings earlier...post #69....got 12V at both terminals on the coil....

I appreciate your patience.....I posted in the local chapter to see if there is a coil/ignitor I can borrow for testing

Thanks

 

[sggoat]

FJ 60 does not have points, so you will not get the same type of readings on it.

I don't get it. What is so hard about reading the voltage on the - side of the coil? You already did the + terminal and it is just the other terminal marked -.

You can get both readings for the same amount of work.

I won't be able to reply for 10 days because I will be in French Polynesia on a 20 meter catamaran. No internet service. I didn't want you to think that I had no patience.

You just HAD to tell us about the vacation, didn't you? Now we will all expect to see some really cool pics--I want to see the one of you out on the outrigger---

 

[onemanarmy]

FJ 60 does not have points, so you will not get the same type of readings on it.

I don't get it. What is so hard about reading the voltage on the - side of the coil? You already did the + terminal and it is just the other terminal marked -.

You can get both readings for the same amount of work.

I won't be able to reply for 10 days because I will be in French Polynesia on a 20 meter catamaran. No internet service. I didn't want you to think that I had no patience.

Thanks for the info on the 60 setup, I was gonna swap them to check, guess I won't now.

 

[Pin_Head]

I apologize for not noticing that. This seems to indicate that the circuit is open with the points closed. If current was flowing normally, the voltage on + would be 5-6 and the voltage on - would be 0. This points to a non functioning ignitor. If the coil was open you would have 0V on the - side.

To comfirm that the coil is OK, reove the wires on the - side of the coil, pull the center wire from the distributor cap, place the end of the wire 1/4 inch away from the engine block and then with the key on, momentarily ground the - side of the coil. You should get a fat juicy spark.

This doesn't mean that the ingitor is bad; just it is not working. It could be because the points are bad (open) the ignitor isn' grounded or the ignitor isn't getting 12V from the key side of the ballast resistor. The ignitor could be bad too.

I leave in 2 hours. I will post some pictures when I get back.

 

[DougAustinTx]

Since you seem to know how to operate your volt-ohm meter, do a simple test that will rule out the points as the problem. Unhook the wire that goes from the points in the distributor where it connects at the ignitor. Set your meter to read ohms (resistance) and touch your two probes together to verify the meter is working. The resistance should go to almost zero. If that worked, connect the black lead from the meter to the negative battery terminal. Connect the red lead of the meter to the wire going to the points. If the points are open, you will get no change on the meter and it will show an "open" circuit. Now close the points by slightly jogging the truck in gear, or however you have been opening and closing the points. With the points closed, you should be getting the resistance almost at zero (like when you touched the probes together). If you don't get a reading, the points need to be dressed with a points file or very fine sandpaper. Whatever you use to clean them, be sure to wipe the face of the points with a lint free cloth to remove the sanding residue. If you still don't get a reading, then your wire or connector going to the points is broken internally.
Ignitors are very reliable, so it is rare for one to go out. As Pin-Head mentioned, the hybrid points/electronic dizzy like you have is a very good system which can still get you home even if the ignitor goes bad.

 

[onemanarmy]

Thanks Pinhead and Doug....will be checking again this afternoon after work.

Will report.

So there is an ignitor AND resistor....but they are both on top of the coil? Where does one end and the other begin?
I hope to have a good coil and ignitor/resistor borrowed this weekend to swap out to check.

Thanks