2F Ignition updgrade

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Just throwing this out there, I use di-electric grease on all my elec. connections and once had my HT wire from center of coil to dist. cap slip out because of the taper of the coil. The boot was still covering the coil, but the metal connection inside wire had slipped out. I now always "burp" the boot on that connection. You're gonna' beat this eventually and all will be smiles. Good luck.
 
Ok, yea, I understand that after more digging....

The Pertronix install....that will allow me to eliminate the igniter and resistor? I called Mark and left a message last Wednesday, but have not heard back.

Any ideas of why it won't run well (cranks and idles very low, and won't rev) when I hot wire the coil? I've read a few reports where the coil will get you home without the igniter if it fails, but that has not been my case, with the old stock coil or the new Accel coil.

Thanks
 
skidplate said:
Just throwing this out there, I use di-electric grease on all my elec. connections and once had my HT wire from center of coil to dist. cap slip out because of the taper of the coil. The boot was still covering the coil, but the metal connection inside wire had slipped out. I now always "burp" the boot on that connection. You're gonna' beat this eventually and all will be smiles. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I did notice a weak connection at the coil for the 'spark plug wire' that runs from the coil to distributor, so I removed the boot and can confirm that the wire makes a good connection to the coil and the distributor.
 
Is it still starting and then dying? If so, You might want to check the idle cut off solenoid on your carb. Classic symtom would be dying after start up.
 
skidplate said:
Is it still starting and then dying? If so, You might want to check the idle cut off solenoid on your carb. Classic symtom would be dying after start up.
Click to expand...

It only will start if I hot wire the coil....as outlined in a few writeups I found on Mud. This is supposed to bypass the igniter and run off the coil...supposed to get you home if the igniter or resistor fails. This has not worked for me. I tried to hot wire the old, stock coil and a brand new, bought this week, Accel coil and got the same results. It will run, but very poorly and eventually cut off. Idles low and will not rev up.

It will not run at all with everything in the factory setup.

I tried a borrowed, working, stock setup from another 1977 2F and my engine fired right up. So I have a coil, ignitor, or resistor problem.

I bought a new coil (Accel 8140)...no change. Used igniters are crazy expensive, so haven't gone that route yet.

I'm leaning towards the Pertronix setup because my distributor is fine, no need to replace. However, I can't get in touch with Marks Off Road (recommended) and can't see the serial # on my stock Nippondenso distributor, so no one can cross reference the number and get the proper Pertronix for my Cruiser.

Fun.

Thanks for all the help.
 
So where can I find the part number or serial number of my distributor? I can't see it.

Also, has anyone put a pertronix set up on a 1977 2F? I have posted pics of my distributor before in this thread. Apparently 1977 was a transition year and everyone gets nervous if I don't have the model number to give them to cross reference.

Thanks
 
Got the Pertronix (91661), trying to install, and the black part (magnet sleeve) will not sit down in the distributor enough to allow the rotor to install far enough on the distributor shaft. It says to press down firmly, and when I do, it will not sit all the way down. Is there a trick to it?
Do I need the part that necks down? Does not seem to be room for that part, and does not match the instructions?
 
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As you said, 77 is a transition year. There are 3 dissy part numbers. Ending in 61010, 32, and 72. (Last one is Calif Spec.)
The Pertronix you have should be correct for the late dizzy 61010. The other two aren't listed in Pertronix cross reference. Maybe they are not compatible or too unusual that they haven't checked?
If you don't have a part number on your dissy, perhaps it's the earlier one? Or maybe someone has swapped it out for another?
Does your vin number help in telling when it was built?

I've got a 78, but it's non-US, and it matches to a 9(1661). Fits perfectly and works perfectly.
 
Kurt is great, but that doesn't guarantee that he was right.
The fact that it doesn't fit means something.

What's your VIN?
 
So I'm somewhat certain that I have the correct Pertronix system,, but hot damn nothing will work as intended.

Anyway, working through that. Did some more testing with my new coil (I put the new coil in, and nothing changed, so went the Pertronix route)

Anyways, I got out my trusty multimeter, and touched the red lead to coil and the black wire to the neg. battery post. Did this for each the pos. and neg. coil sides. With the ignition off, I get zero volts, both sides of the coil. With the ignition on, I get 12V at both sides of the coil. This is with the factory setup. Should this tell me something? I thought only one side of the coil (pos. or neg.?) should be reading 12V with the key on?

Hopefully the Pertronix will act right and I can get it installed.
 
If the points are open (or the contact within the pertronix) then you will get 12v on both positive and negative of the coil. That is normal.
 
onemanarmy said:
However, the top of the magnet ring is even with the top of the Pertronix circuit box when installed, but the rotor will not go on the shaft far enough to allow the distributor cap to go back on.....so I'm stumped, again.
Click to expand...

Did you remove the points prior to installing the magnet ring?
 
78fj40mg said:
Did you remove the points prior to installing the magnet ring?
Click to expand...

Yea, took off old points, installed Pertronix box that mounts in the old points mounting holes, and then tried to install the magnet ring.

The magnet ring will not go down far enough to allow the rotor to seat fully, with in turn won't allow the dist. cap to go on. the top of the magnet ring is just below the height of the Pertronix circuit box.
 
Seems like there aren't many options.
It's either the wrong pertronix for your dissy, or there's a manufacturing/dimensional issue with your unit (or your dissy), or you're installing it wrong.
Have you tried calling pertronix customer support?
 
You seem to have my kind of luck.:( I know you'll get this worked out eventually and you'll learn a lot in the process. Wish I could offer more help, but the ways of the Pertronix I know not.:beer:
 
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