2F Ignition updgrade

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try cleaning the connections and file the points yet?

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JohnnyC, I think he mentioned that he did file the points. Like you, I still think it could be the points. I think Doug has a good idea in checking that wire that goes to the points. A good possibility that there is an unseen break in that wire. I mean, Onemanarmy said said it was working...and then all of a sudden it wasn't working.

Onemanarmy, I suggest you do Doug's test before to slap on the borrowed items.

John
 
The bottom bullet connector in the photo is for an optional filter capacitor. I do not know what the other bullet is for, maybe a tach connector like the FJ60 has?

You said you cleaned everything up? Post a new pic of everything cleaned up. Use some 409 or something on all the wires so we can see the colors. Your ground looks good where it attaches to the fender, but the coil body looks very rusted. Take it completely apart and clean to bear metal so that you KNOW the igniter and coil are grounded properly to the bracket that bolts to the fender. Taking it apart will allow you to see the ballast resister, and also allow you to measure across it to see it you are getting a voltage drop.

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You have two things going for you, patience and a willingness to learn how to fix your own truck. You will get it to work with our help! Being willing to follow along and LEARN puts you a step ahead of a lot of new Cruisers owners. I have never understood why someone would buy a vehicle that REQUIRES a bit of mechanical/electrical knowledge to keep them running, then not be willing to learn how to fix it themselves. (Of course that does mean there are Cruisers for sale everyday from these very people...:D)
 
well I've had the 55 for quite some time now and have put a good bit of work and time and money into it, and have been lucky. This is the first time it has quit on me.

I've had 22R, 22RE, and now my FJ55 and FJ60, and an 85 4Runner with a 3rz swap, so I stay out of trouble.

I'll track it down. I better, cause it's consuming my thoughts.
 
As indicated in my previous post #26 "clean all the connections free of rust" your pictures still show rusty connections.
 
onemanarmy said:
View attachment 1090330View attachment 1090331
Click to expand...

Go to post # 46, first pic of the dizzy:
Look to the 11 o'clock position. You need to get 12V, with ignition on, to the bolt on the outside of the dizzy, through the nylon insulator block, and to the wire to the points on the inside of the dizzy, without grounding out.With the points open, like is shown in the pic, you should have 12V on the movable arm of the points.The arm is insulated electrically from the base of the points. When the points close they become grounded.

At the bottom of the pic, in the 6 o'clock position, is a screw head on the inside of the dizzy body, with a ground wire attached. The other end of this wire is fastened to the advance plate inside the dizzy. The advance plate holds the points, but isn't necessarily grounded to the dizzy body, except through this wire. This wire, and screw contacts, must be good shape to provide ground for the advance plate and points. All of these items MUST be in good condition electrically, and work together to allow the points do what they were designed to do.

Check out each item mentioned here, making sure you are getting 12V to the movable arm of the points, and not grounding out while the points are open. Then make sure you have good ground from the advance base plate and on through the dizzy body.

As an aside, in the 11 o'clock position in the pic, is a screw in a slot holding one end of the points base. Just to the left, and above the screw, is a notch in the points base plate. Just above that, on the dizzy advance plate, are two raised dots. To adjust the points gap you slightly loosen the screw, place a flat tipped screwdriver with one edge in the notch of the base plate,and the other edge of the screwdriver between the two dots. Use a twisting motion to open/close the points gap.

Don
 
handcannon said:
Go to post # 46, first pic of the dizzy:
Look to the 11 o'clock position. You need to get 12V, with ignition on, to the bolt on the outside of the dizzy, through the nylon insulator block, and to the wire to the points on the inside of the dizzy, without grounding out.With the points open, like is shown in the pic, you should have 12V on the movable arm of the points.The arm is insulated electrically from the base of the points. When the points close they become grounded.

At the bottom of the pic, in the 6 o'clock position, is a screw head on the inside of the dizzy body, with a ground wire attached. The other end of this wire is fastened to the advance plate inside the dizzy. The advance plate holds the points, but isn't necessarily grounded to the dizzy body, except through this wire. This wire, and screw contacts, must be good shape to provide ground for the advance plate and points. All of these items MUST be in good condition electrically, and work together to allow the points do what they were designed to do.

Check out each item mentioned here, making sure you are getting 12V to the movable arm of the points, and not grounding out while the points are open. Then make sure you have good ground from the advance base plate and on through the dizzy body.

As an aside, in the 11 o'clock position in the pic, is a screw in a slot holding one end of the points base. Just to the left, and above the screw, is a notch in the points base plate. Just above that, on the dizzy advance plate, are two raised dots. To adjust the points gap you slightly loosen the screw, place a flat tipped screwdriver with one edge in the notch of the base plate,and the other edge of the screwdriver between the two dots. Use a twisting motion to open/close the points gap.

Don
Click to expand...

I adjusted the points with the adjustment screws. They open and close as the distributor turns.

today I plan to take everything apart and clean it again. I have filed the points before, but no luck.

Pretty sure I get 12V to the distributor wire measured at the stud you mention on the outside of the distributor cap, but will double check.

Thankss
 
You might try just running the points and bypassing the ignitor. Remove the wires at the - side of the coil and distributor. Connect a new wire beetween the two and see if it runs. If so, the ignior isn't working. You would need to add a condensor to the distributor wire that has its case grounded if you wanted to run this way for long. It is a good skill to know in case the ignitor fails.
 
I'd do what @Pin_Head said above ^^^ instead of trying to find another ignitor.
 
I don't know if this helps at all, but when I got my '75 this is how it was wired. I didn't know that it originally had an ignitor which was not on the truck. Its been running great for 20 years with this set up. Now that I think of it did have an internally resisted coil and no ballast resister, running a set of points and a condenser mounted on the dissy. I did later replace the coil with one that requires a ballast resister and added the resister.
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The truck ran equally well with both set ups. The dissy set up was the same with both coils.
 
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