2f Carb Tuning - Timing - and Vacuum Routing for Desmog (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So why did the truck rpm's increase at the light? Make sure you check the vacuum hose that runs under the air cleaner from dizzy to advancer port on the carb. Does the inboard side of your carb look like this?
1564502222592.png
 
So why did the truck rpm's increase at the light? Make sure you check the vacuum hose that runs under the air cleaner from dizzy to advancer port on the carb. Does the inboard side of your carb look like this?
View attachment 2044144

Great question.
But no by carb does not look like that. A Fuji / city racer carb only has one port on that back side. Remember it’s desmogged.
 
An open vacuum port, A loose connection. You'll figure it out. Go back to trying to run it at idle with the choke off. Use process of elimination to find it. Good news is your compression figures are good and you have a good engine.
 
An open vacuum port, A loose connection. You'll figure it out. Go back to trying to run it at idle with the choke off. Use process of elimination to find it. Good news is your compression figures are good and you have a good engine.

Yea I just need to find where the choke screw needs to be set at.
 
I found this in a box. It doesn’t happen to be a temp sensor does it? It’s pretty small, think quarter sized.
View attachment 2044105
Cut it off the pipe. Use two bolts to add it to the two threaded holes on the intake. The cable will need to be attached to that tiny threaded end. To wire it, you’ll need a piece of bicycle cable, choke cable (I replaced mine so used the junk one), or some sort of insulated cable. Regular wire will fry pretty quick after a few cycles.
If you want pixs lmk.
 
Last edited:
Yea I just need to find where the choke screw needs to be set at.
Furthest screw out on the facing right of the carb. Pull the choke handle and get the RPMs to 1800. That’s it.
 
No instructions. Just a video emailed on the otramm lean drop method of tuning.
You followed the directions in my city racer thread right regarding the vacuum lines and a tee or two?
 
So why did the truck rpm's increase at the light? Make sure you check the vacuum hose that runs under the air cleaner from dizzy to advancer port on the carb. Does the inboard side of your carb look like this?
View attachment 2044144
G, unless you have a City Racer carb, stop posting info that is no help to Danny.
 
Cut it off the pipe. Use two bolts to add it to the two threaded holes on the intake. The cable will need to be attached to that tiny threaded end. To wire it, you’ll need a piece of bicycle cable, choke cable (I replaced mine so used the junk one), or some sort of insulated cable. Regular wire will fry pretty quick after a few cycles.
If you want pixs lmk.

I’ll have to find some cable like that. I may temp wire it just to get it working though till I can find some.
 
Furthest screw out on the facing right of the carb. Pull the choke handle and get the RPMs to 1800. That’s it.

So once I do this and bring the engine to 1800, what do I adjust the screw to? Until I misadjusted the screw yesterday (with cars driving around me) I didn’t even have to touch my choke to start it. It didn’t even hesitate to start.
 
I'm a bit worried that.....
At the next red light I was watching the RPM’s. It went from 1000 to 1500


is the main vacuum advance port on the dizzy hooked directly and only to the carb? If there is a VCV, VSV, VTV, BVSV in the line or "T"d into the vacuum advance, it could cause the vacuum advance to move and increase rpms. These valves open based on ...electrical signal, temp and other variables.

The new blue VCV that you installed ...it is only connected to the vent on top of the dizzy right? and not on either vacuum advance port?
 
Last edited:
My vac advance to the carb was unplugged somehow.
However that same line also connects to the vcv.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom