g-man
SILVER Star
The main vacuum advance port on the dizzy needs to go to a carb advancer port. Disclaimer, I am not a Fuji carb technician.
2f Carb Tuning - Timing - and Vacuum Routing for Desmog (13 Viewers)
- Thread starter dannyvp
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
“The inner distributor spark advance diaphragm originally had a passive VTV inline with it. It's a plastic bidirectional valve that lets air flow easily but slowly the other direction.
All the VSVs are powered by 12 volts and the FCS. As well as the charcoal can outer vent control valve.
VTVs aren't triggered. They just restrict the air flow.
VSVs will open or shut if 12V is applied to them.
BVSV don't use power. When the temperature reaches a certain value its internal valve opens.”
All the VSVs are powered by 12 volts and the FCS. As well as the charcoal can outer vent control valve.
VTVs aren't triggered. They just restrict the air flow.
VSVs will open or shut if 12V is applied to them.
BVSV don't use power. When the temperature reaches a certain value its internal valve opens.”
g-man
SILVER Star
In post #157 you have mwebfj60 diagram of connecting the VCV without charcoal and then the second image w/charcoal canister. That second image shows the VCV getting "T"d into the main vacuum advance line. I'm not sure how that affects vacuum advance on the dizzy if the VCV changes vacuum. On the OEM set up the VCV only goes to a carb vacuum port and NOT to the dizzy vacuum advance. I wonder if there needs to be a one way valve here or can you find another port on the carb to hook the VCV to. In other words I think this diagram is engineered to steal carb vacuum from the dizzy line b/c lack of carb vacuum ports???
Here is an image from the EVAP VCV in the original OEM system notice it doesn't affect vacuum advance on the dizzy:
Disclaimer: I am not a Fuji carb engineer!
Here is an image from the EVAP VCV in the original OEM system notice it doesn't affect vacuum advance on the dizzy:
Disclaimer: I am not a Fuji carb engineer!
dannyvp
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #285
Big Update!!
I was double checking hose and saw an oil leak. So I crawl under the truck to see the oil leak. I see my carb cleaner sitting there and spray it on the leak, while I have it in hand I sprayed up on the exhaust, on one corner the engine rev’d up.
So I checked the 3 exhaust bolts and one is threaded backwards and loose. After burning my arm, Accidentally I grounded out the carb fan and it came on i got that bolt tightened up and the carb has seemed to tune out.
I drove it around the block and it died at the stop sign. So I got it home and after it is rev’d up for a bit, when you let of the gas it will die.
So I’m closer. I think I might have the main part of the problem figured out.
I was double checking hose and saw an oil leak. So I crawl under the truck to see the oil leak. I see my carb cleaner sitting there and spray it on the leak, while I have it in hand I sprayed up on the exhaust, on one corner the engine rev’d up.
So I checked the 3 exhaust bolts and one is threaded backwards and loose. After burning my arm, Accidentally I grounded out the carb fan and it came on i got that bolt tightened up and the carb has seemed to tune out.
I drove it around the block and it died at the stop sign. So I got it home and after it is rev’d up for a bit, when you let of the gas it will die.
So I’m closer. I think I might have the main part of the problem figured out.
Be careful with carb cleaner and hot exhaust, also heat and brake cleaner is a bad combination. But good to hear progress!
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Yeah it has a donut that’s sits down into the lower section.
dannyvp
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #289
Ok so I have the vac leaks found. I have the carb tuned. The engine idles like a champ! Drives awesome for the first 5 minutes, then it starts surging and causes bad running problems. It will be bucking and jumping.
Is there a valve or something that opens at certain temps that can cause this?
Is there a valve or something that opens at certain temps that can cause this?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Pull open your driver kick panel and try unplugging and then plugging back the emissions computer. Sometimes that can reboot it. Not guaranteed but it’s a shot in the dark. Some will actually ground the carb solenoid to the body of the carb too. I can’t remember the wiring on a CR but it can force the computer to reboot.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
You do get a click from the solenoid right? Turn key so its on but not started. Unplug the solenoid, does it click when you plug it back in. If the truck is idling and you unplug it, does it stall out?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
While idling, it should make it stall out.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
And yes the bvsv opens due to temp ie: it’s the two that are on the tsat housing. Are you running the top violet one?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Sorry, I couldn’t remember.
dannyvp
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #300
So I checked the timing after warm up. It was set to "0" according to my gun. I know for a fact I set it to "10" yesterday. So I reset it to "10"n just now. On the test drive it still lurched and jumped and hesitated, but not as bad. Does this mean I need to advance my timing some more?
What could cause you to loose timing?
What could cause you to loose timing?
