2f Carb Tuning - Timing - and Vacuum Routing for Desmog (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

Set the timing back to the BB and see if that does anything with the smoke and rough running. Then slowly advance it and see it it smooths out.

If the dizzy was removed maybe it was stabbed in there wrong if you can't advance it.

 

[dannyvp]

I just installed a new PCV valve I found in a box of parts from ragingmatt.
It seems to have helped some with the smoke.
(I think) I’m a little Woosy from fumes today.

I also changed the timing from 7 to 16, I couldn’t really see difference sitting in my driveway.

 

[gt7058a]

See if you blew a fuse on the ECU

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Bring the diz down to say 10 and see how it runs then.
By the way!!! Way to go!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

See if you blew a fuse on the ECU

There’s fuses ON the emissions computer?

 

[dannyvp]

See if you blew a fuse on the ECU

Whatu talking about Willis.

 

[dannyvp]

Bring the diz down to say 10 and see how it runs then.
By the way!!! Way to go!

Set it back to 10.

Cruiser seems to be running well. Plenty peppy. Some black smoke still and smell.
Vacuum is holding around 19-20.
Idle seems to be holding well.

I have not tried the lean drop method of tuning yet to see if the problem at started all of this is fixed or not though.

 

[cheeese]

Yeah! Good work D. Get yourself some fresh air and then lean drop it tomorrow morning.

 

[gt7058a]

The 10A called engine on the fuse cover

 

[dannyvp]

 

[dannyvp]

The 10A called engine on the fuse cover

My fuse is still good.

 

[dannyvp]

My first big drive. 20 minutes or so 65 to 70 mph. Truck ran well. When I went to turn the truck off, it kept stumbling and running for 8-10 seconds.
When I started it back up a few minutes later, the temp gauge was high, it was not high while driving.

 

[Seth S]

research “dieseling”

Did the temp gage drop back to normal after running for a couple minutes?

 

[4Cruisers]

Looks like you're getting closer.

 

[dannyvp]

It was running kinda fast at idle, around 1400rpm. I adjusted this back to 700ish in the parking lot. When I turned it back off, it quit like it should.

Temp went down as soon as we were moving.

My oil pressure gauge stopped working though. So I need to find that.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It was running kinda fast at idle, around 1400rpm. I adjusted this back to 700ish in the parking lot. When I turned it back off, it quit like it should.

Temp went down as soon as we were moving.

My oil pressure gauge stopped working though. So I need to find that.

That’s your oil sender. Be sure the wire clip is plugged into that circular nub, not the flat spade on the side.
Hopefully the rise in temp, most likely, is just thermal lock... something like that. Truck heats up, block, etc. When you shut it down the temp gauge keeps reading it so it appears high when you restart soon after.
Do you have a working carb fan that turns on as soon as the key is turned off? If not, then that would be next to get working because it blows cool air at the carb area to help prevent that vapor lock. It should run for maybe 10-15 mins after the ignition is shut off.

 

[dannyvp]

That’s your oil sender. Be sure the wire clip is plugged into that circular nub, not the flat spade on the side.
Hopefully the rise in temp, most likely, is just thermal lock... something like that. Truck heats up, block, etc. When you shut it down the temp gauge keeps reading it so it appears high when you restart soon after.
Do you have a working carb fan that turns on as soon as the key is turned off? If not, then that would be next to get working because it blows cool air at the carb area to help prevent that high temp reading. It should run for maybe 10-15 mins after the ignition is shut off.

View attachment 2042640

I do not have a working carb fan. It’s there, but the wire was burned in half.

I saw that sending unit. A lot of work happened around it this last week. So maybe it’s just the wire came loose.

 

[dannyvp]

Strange View. Top left is the carb fan. You can see the plug for it below it. The bundle of wires wire from that plug has the fuel solenoid wires and this burned in half wire.

There's the oil sending unit. No wire attached. However there is a bare wire very close to the unit. Being that it worked before all this work, I must have broke the wire off.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

All easy remedies. We can walk you through the carb fan. Do the sender first. Add a female plug to it that will hook to the center nub. I think it’s just an 18g wire. Put a rubber cap or a 1/2” length of silicone hose over the side male spade so you don’t inadvertently clip to it. If you do it will fry your gauge.
Typically there’s a black rubbery cap that goes over the sender that holds the wire inplace while it’s on the nub. You may have lost it in your drives unless it was gone before. But guessing where it broke was where the wire came through the cap.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

For now for the carb fan, add a few inches of 18g to as clean a stretch of what’s there and ground it to the fender. It should come on when you shut the truck down.
To do it right will require a fair amount more work so half assing is totally acceptable.