2f Carb Tuning - Timing - and Vacuum Routing for Desmog (1 Viewer)

[g-man]

Take a flash light and look down in the bottom of the carb and see if the throttle plates are closed? then slowly step on the accelerator pedal to see only the primary throttle plate is opening? The secondary shouldn't open unless it's nearing WOT. The secondary may be vacuum operated or a secondary linkage that kicks it open. Anyway it should be closed most of the time. The throttle plates are screwed to the rod that goes along the bottom and comes out the front. Make sure they are not loose or flopping around. Also actuate the throttle linkage at the back of the carb with the vehicle off and see that fuel squirts down into the venturi...and make sure its' not dribbling excess fuel after you let go of the linkage. Also make sure the fuel is 1/2 way up in the sight glass.

 

[g-man]

I guess it's possible to have the linkage flexed and pin the secondary throttle plate in the WOT position by mistake. Make sure the secondary throttle linkage is working the secondary plate. To do this you may have to move the primary linkage first to unlock the secondary.

 

[dannyvp]

Not half way but close

 

[g-man]

That's prob close enough. The float in the bowl determines when the needle comes off the seat to let more fuel in the bowl. They can be bent to allow adjustment. I believe those two bolts below the sight glass access the jets. You remove them, then put a small flathead in there to unscrew the jets. Usually they clog and cause lack of fuel...not too much fuel., but this after years of corrosion and crap in settling out in the fuel bowl.

 

[dannyvp]

Take a flash light and look down in the bottom of the carb and see if the throttle plates are closed? then slowly step on the accelerator pedal to see only the primary throttle plate is opening? The secondary shouldn't open unless it's nearing WOT. The secondary may be vacuum operated or a secondary linkage that kicks it open. Anyway it should be closed most of the time. The throttle plates are screwed to the rod that goes along the bottom and comes out the front. Make sure they are not loose or flopping around. Also actuate the throttle linkage at the back of the carb with the vehicle off and see that fuel squirts down into the venturi...and make sure its' not dribbling excess fuel after you let go of the linkage. Also make sure the fuel is 1/2 way up in the sight glass.

both are closed.
The main seems to open correct and spray fuel.
Attached is a video of the outside of the linkage. The secondary linkage is tite.

 

[dannyvp]

Well, I started it back up. Checked all the lines. Unplugged lines, replugged lines, sprayed 1/4 bottle of carb cleaner looking for leaks.
The only thing different now is, the amount of black smoke.

 

[dannyvp]

I’ve read almost everything I can find on this.
What could cause an issue like this?
I know I have low vacuum. Is that part of the problem? If so what causes low vacuum?
Is the carb bad? Is that the problem, it’s strange that you can’t get the lean drop method to even begin to work.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I wouldn’t pull open or mess w/ the inside of the City Racer carb.
You do need to realize what he has for a carb is far different from your G.
W/ the City Racer most times we don’t pull the choke at all, if at all, maybe a minute.
I haven’t read all the comments but I saw that the truck smokes and smells bad. @dannyvp, the valve seals were done in the head job?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’ve read almost everything I can find on this.
What could cause an issue like this?
I know I have low vacuum. Is that part of the problem? If so what causes low vacuum?
Is the carb bad? Is that the problem, it’s strange that you can’t get the lean drop method to even begin to work.

Honestly if it’s that bad, I’d contact Roger, @Racer65 and request a replacement. Don’t mess w/ it anymore. Granted your truck was super redneck smoged but I really don’t think it should be this hard. Have you sought out a local Toyota club @dannyvp? I’m SURE there’s someone near you who could possibly help out.

 

[dannyvp]

I wouldn’t pull open or mess w/ the inside of the City Racer carb.
You do need to realize what he has for a carb is far different from your G.
W/ the City Racer most times we don’t pull the choke at all, if at all, maybe a minute.
I haven’t read all the comments but I saw that the truck smokes and smells bad. @dannyvp, the valve seals were done in the head job?

valve job and seals were done.

 

[dannyvp]

Honestly if it’s that bad, I’d contact Roger, @Racer65 and request a replacement. Don’t mess w/ it anymore. Granted your truck was super redneck smoged but I really don’t think it should be this hard. Have you sought out a local Toyota club @dannyvp? I’m SURE there’s someone near you who could possibly help out.

I sent cityracer and email about this. I wonder if something is wrong with it. I've been fighting it for over a month.
I just wanted to try everything I could first.

I do not know of a club around, there should be one in my area though.

 

[g-man]

There is such a thing as an internal carb vacuum leak. Cracks in the vacuum passages inside the carb or missing an internal piece. But that still isn't going to make it blow black smoke. That is a result of improper fuel/air mixture or burning oil. Leaking valve stem seals only result in blue smoke at start up and will go away in a few minutes after the oil seeping down the valve stems burns off.

I too think your best bet would be to borrow another carb or even put your old carb back on to see if things change and eliminate any possibilities other than the carb.

 

[dannyvp]

I wouldn’t pull open or mess w/ the inside of the City Racer carb.
You do need to realize what he has for a carb is far different from your G.
W/ the City Racer most times we don’t pull the choke at all, if at all, maybe a minute.
I haven’t read all the comments but I saw that the truck smokes and smells bad. @dannyvp, the valve seals were done in the head job?

ive thought about just having my original rebuilt now.

 

[dannyvp]

There is such a thing as an internal carb vacuum leak. Cracks in the vacuum passages inside the carb or missing an internal piece. But that still isn't going to make it blow black smoke. That is a result of improper fuel/air mixture or burning oil. Leaking valve stem seals only result in blue smoke at start up and will go away in a few minutes after the oil seeping down the valve stems burns off.

I too think your best bet would be to borrow another carb or even put your old carb back on to see if things change and eliminate any possibilities other than the carb.

it wasn't bad black smoke until this weekend and I adjusted and checked and timed and overall messed with everything.
most of that smoke is at the low idle also, under power it seems to go away.

 

[Seth S]

ive thought about just having my original rebuilt now.

Why don't you just buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I do not know of a club around, there should be one in my area though.

North American Clubhouses - Central Region

from the Plains thru the Rockies

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[dannyvp]

Why don't you just buy a rebuild kit and do it yourself?

Never tried. But I’ve never tried half of this stuff either. I was told it’s hard and art to it.

 

[Racer65]

Can you provide a brief summary of the issue? Let's get a few more people to weigh in:

@wngrog @Pin_Head @RAGINGMATT @65swb45

You may need to have a Cruiser shop take a look. The chance it's due to something internal with the carb is quite remote, as it's never happened. The few cases I got involved always turned out to be something external (e.g. debris from the gas tank, solenoid not hooked up, throttle linkage installed incorrectly).

 

[dannyvp]

Can you provide a brief summary of the issue? Let's get a few more people to weigh in:

@wngrog @Pin_Head @RAGINGMATT

You may need to have a Cruiser shop take a look. The chance it's due to something internal with the carb is quite remote, as it's never happened. The few cases I got involved always turned out to be something external (e.g. debris from the gas tank, solenoid not hooked up, throttle linkage installed incorrectly).

I’m always willing to try more stuff.

Pics and videos should show everything hooked up correctly. If we need a better picture just let me know.
Solenoid came from ragingmatt, so it’s new. No idea about bad gas or anything like that.

The closest cruiser shop to me is around 4 hours away. So that’s my last option.

Briefly, the carb is tuning the opposite of the video you guys sent me to follow. The lean drop method. When you screw out the mixture screw the RPM’s drop instead of increase.
There is a very low vacuum, but I can’t find a leak. Being desmogged, there isn’t very many hoses left.

 

[g-man]

Did you spray carb cleaner around the EGR/PCV port on the side of the intake? And around the head to intake gasket? sorry if this seems obvious didn't want this to be overlooked.