22r Aisan Carb 35291

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

FrankTorres said:
LC Engineering Part Number: 1081123 has the Distributor Vacuum Advance Unit for $59.95


I bought a whole new distributor at RockAuto WPS / POWER SELECT DST731 $71.79
It was a 15 minute plug and play.
DST731_S__ra_p.jpg
Click to expand...

What's the quality like? I usually like to stick with Japanese electronics. Is it new or re maned? How long have you ran it?
 
Sweet, lifetime warranty for extra 20 bucks for the carburetor. ha ha. I will use this website if it comes down to getting a new one.

Thanks for the video on how to check the advance vacuum. Very informative.

Just found this video on how to check my timing belt. I didn't know it was that easy. What do I do if it is off? How do I fix that??
 
You don't have a belt. You have a chain.
 
You have a fan and alternator belt, which is the belt closest to the engine, an A/C belt if there is one which is the middle one and a power steering belt that's closest to the radiator.
 
As for timing you loosen the adjustor screw on the distributor and move it up or down. As for of the chain its self is off then its a lot more complicated
 
Mudder said:
As for timing you loosen the adjustor screw on the distributor and move it up or down. As for of the chain its self is off then its a lot more complicated
Click to expand...

Okay great. I thought it would have something to do with the distributor. I already know where the bolt is on my distributor to adjust it. I just need to check my timing (not the belt) and see if it needs adjusting. I'm doing my best to search for videos to really show me how to do these things, I just need to put it all together. I know if my timing chain was off I'd probably have much bigger problems going on and I don't hear any engine knock, so I'm assuming it's fine.

At the moment I only have one belt to worry about. I found everything I need to have A/C in my truck but I can't find a bracket/mount for the compressor. Otherwise I'd have two belts.
 
I think your thinking of the timing marks on your crank pulley that your belt runs on. You use those marks with a timing gun to see where your timing is at.
 
Toast said:
What's the quality like? I usually like to stick with Japanese electronics. Is it new or re maned? How long have you ran it?
Click to expand...
I was skeptical but for the price I was willing to try it out. Everything was new, quality and fit was excellent. Only 100 miles so far though...
 
That video should be 90% of what you need.

All of this is to be done with your vehicle running.

Instead of using the paperclip jumper, you will have to disconnect the vacuum hose on your distributor. If the timing mark doesn't match up with the "0" (zero) mark down by the crankshaft, you will have to loosen (don't remove) the bolt that attaches the distributor to the head. Slowly rotate the distributor until the timing mark matches the "0" down by the crank. Tighten the distributor bolt (remember it threads into aluminum so don't get it Mongo-tight) and recheck your timing to make sure the distributor didn't rotate while you were tightening. Take it for a spin!
 
Okay so I was able to do a few things on my truck today.

We checked my ignition timing. It was right on zero.

Found out my idle speed was WAY high! 1600 rpm. Brought it down to 700 rpm idle with the idle screw on the Carb. After we did that we checked the ignition timing again, was barely off. Adjusted the distributor to put it right back on zero. Also my truck dies down much nicer now.

Then we made some adjustments on my carburetor with the mixture screw and idle screw, to get the right mixture and what not.

The vacuum advance on the distributor is working.

So after all this. My truck is still hesitating and jumping... I'm thinking it must be what toast said. Ignition Control Module.
 
Toast said:
I think your thinking of the timing marks on your crank pulley that your belt runs on. You use those marks with a timing gun to see where your timing is at.
Click to expand...

Toast, I've read up on the Ignition Control Module. It said if my spark plugs are bad, it has to up the voltage on the spark plugs to ignite the fuel, causing it to work harder and makes the module to die out faster. When I changed my spark plugs the old ones were really bad. Really trying not to get my hopes up but I think you are right about the ignition/coil. I'm currently looking for one.

Does anyone have a list of things I can do for maintenance after so many miles? Like changing transmission fluid, spark plugs, oil filter, etc?

Also wanted to say thanks to everyone for helping me with this problem and really appreciate it.
 
As far as maintenance items are concerned, that depends on how many miles are on your truck. Usually when I get a new vehicle, none have been from family, I usually try to base-line all my fluids. This gives me the confidence that they have been changed at least once. With 22r/re's I, personally, like to get new wires, cap and rotor from Toyota; new plugs and air filter/fuel filter. If it's been a 100K miles since the last timing chain replacement, you NEED to do that. Especially if you can hear a rubbing (ie chain on aluminum) on a cold start.
 
Kris said:
As far as maintenance items are concerned, that depends on how many miles are on your truck. Usually when I get a new vehicle, none have been from family, I usually try to base-line all my fluids. This gives me the confidence that they have been changed at least once. With 22r/re's I, personally, like to get new wires, cap and rotor from Toyota; new plugs and air filter/fuel filter. If it's been a 100K miles since the last timing chain replacement, you NEED to do that. Especially if you can hear a rubbing (ie chain on aluminum) on a cold start.
Click to expand...

What he said. Fluids include engine, tranny, transfer case, diffs, brakes, radiator, power steering. All of it. Key words are "base-line." Get the truck where you know everything has been done and move on from there. Don't assume anything.
 
Kris said:
As far as maintenance items are concerned, that depends on how many miles are on your truck. Usually when I get a new vehicle, none have been from family, I usually try to base-line all my fluids. This gives me the confidence that they have been changed at least once. With 22r/re's I, personally, like to get new wires, cap and rotor from Toyota; new plugs and air filter/fuel filter. If it's been a 100K miles since the last timing chain replacement, you NEED to do that. Especially if you can hear a rubbing (ie chain on aluminum) on a cold start.
Click to expand...

Alright this is a great start, I've done most of this except for the timing chain. I don't think it has ever been changed and it's almost at 187k miles. The engine sounds fine and I do not hear anything wrong with it. Especially from yesterday. I had an expert with me yesterday and he said it sounds great.

I've made a quick list for maintenance. Let me know if you have any suggestions to add or change!

Truck Maintenance
-Spark Plugs: Check every ~30K miles

-Oil: Change every 3K miles

-Oil Filter: Change with oil

-Tires: Rotate every 3k - 5k miles. New tires every ~50k to 70k miles.

-Timing Chain: Change every ~100K miles

-Transmission Fluid: Change every ~30k - 60k (Do not flush fluids after ~150k, only change)
 
pappy said:
What he said. Fluids include engine, tranny, transfer case, diffs, brakes, radiator, power steering. All of it. Key words are "base-line." Get the truck where you know everything has been done and move on from there. Don't assume anything.
Click to expand...

Perfect, I totally missed these. Thanks!
 
There is no recommended change interval for the timing chain. The plastic guides are the issue, and the tensioner gets weak/worn. IMO too many are changed out when they are still fine. The FSM has a procedure where you measure the wear on a certain number of links.

OTOH, my Lexus and Highlander are supposed to have "lifetime" ATF in the transmissions, but I always flush it when I do the timing belt.
 
Hey guys, not sure if anyone will see this or not. I've been busy trying to figure everything out and have something worth posting.

I ended up getting a new ignition coil. No change. I also ended up having a mechanic look over a lot of things. He found the vacuum tubes for my Vacuum Advance were switched. Acceleration works a lot better now. Main problem of jolting and hesitation still exists. Said I needed a new carburetor. I ended up getting a new one and installed it today. Problem still exists.

Later I talked to another guy and he said the issue sounds like my EGR valve is the cause. I blocked off my EGR vacuum tube and now my engine doesn't jolt or hesitate. Only ended up jolting once at the end of the test drive. So now I'm looking to check out my EGR modulator and the BVSV.
 
Glad to hear you got it resolved. Unfortunate that you had to throw extra parts at it.... but so it goes.

I'm not sure what the emission laws are out in Virginia, but you could always leave a "spacer" between your intake manifold and the EGR modulator. It was easier for me to cut a blank-out from sheet metal then to buy a block off plate.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom