22r Aisan Carb 35291

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WestGemini

WestGemini

10 Year
Joined
Dec 14, 2015
Threads
2
Messages
22
Location
Virginia Beach
Hey guys, been a long time lurker for this site. I've finally decided I need to make my own account and ask for some more specific help with this issue I've been having with my truck.

Hoping someone out there can help me out.

From what I can tell there's something wrong with my carburetor. My truck hesitates or seems to lose power for split seconds at very random intervals. It doesn't matter how fast I'm going or what gear I'm in. I recently rebuilt my carburetor. Was told I had a vacuum leak after I rebuilt the carb. The leak was between the Carb and the intake. I made a better seal and used gasket sealant. My problem has not gone away.

Before the rebuild of my carb the choke valve didn't move at all even if I pushed on it. I fixed that, and the choke valve moves when you push on it now, but doesn't move at all when the truck is running. I'm not sure if it's supposed to move or not while running.

I've also messed with the air/fuel mixture and idle screw as well. My truck idles just fine. Maybe someone can tell me what I should set my air/fuel mixture to? I'm not sure if I have too much or too little.

I've also replaced my sparkplugs and fuel filter. Also checked my distributor cap, which looks fine.

So I'm trying to determine, if I'm getting too much air into my carburetor, too little air, too much fuel, or too little fuel.
 
I can't really help you on your problem, but you might get more help if you tell us the year and model of your truck.
 
Here's a good start.



How long has this been happening? Was it all-of-a-sudden? or has the hesitation been getting worse? How long have you owned the vehicle? Have you ever changed the cap/rotor/wires? Have you ever checked your timing? Does your vacuum advance work?
 
This truck I own was bought new off the lot in 1986 by my parents. My first car and I've been driving it for 10 years since I was 15.

I had my truck shipped from Washington to where I am now in Virginia Beach. It started happening somewhere around July this year. I've been off and on trying to figure out this problem myself. My dad told me he had this similar problem and told me to change the fuel filter. I did, and it didn't fix anything.

The problem hasn't gotten worse or any better. I do my best not to drive it much. It was pretty all of a sudden, I've never experienced this problem before.

I haven't checked the timing, I've been trying to learn how to do it myself, but I'm thinking I should just go to a shop.

I had the wires on the distributor replaced about 7 years ago, I checked them and they look clean. The rotor looks fine and so does the cap. I have pictures of my distributor and carburetor if those would help out at all.

I haven't come across this vacuum advance yet, not sure what it is. How can I check to see if it's still working?
 
That's the nice thing about the internet - it's a wealth of information, deciphering the crap is the hard part.

I would check the timing if you can (timing lights can be pretty cheap) as it's the easiest thing to do. I would next recomend rebuilding your carb, but it looks like you did that.

Maybe a vacuum leak?

Sure, go ahead and post a pic of your carb - it can't hurt.
 
I agree. The internet has been pretty useful for me so far.

I'm wondering if it could be the fuel/air mixture. I turned the air/fuel mixture screw all the way in, then turned it clockwise about 4.5 turns. 3.5 didn't seem to be enough. Any thoughts on that?

For rebuilding the carb, it was my first time ever trying something like that. I'm guessing I did it right since my truck still runs the same way or I ended up not rebuilding the carb quite right to fix the problem that's still existent. An auto shop told me I had a vacuum leak, but I realized I was stupid and didn't tighten the bolts enough when I put the carb back on after rebuilding it. I sprayed WD 40 around the bottom of the carburetor and the spacer and the intake and I didn't see anything being sucked in. I'm kind of curious about my choke valve though, and the level of fuel in the reservoir. I marked it with a red line.

The timing lights are cheap, I'm just worried I wouldn't know what to do with it. Don't I need something to go on the timing belt so I can understand what's going on?
 
Need at least 5 posts. And try water or carb cleaner/break cleaner for a better result when looking for air leaks.
 
I had this exact same issue, it turned out to be my coil/igniter failing to fire under load. It idled great but under load it would stumble and stutter. I swore it was a fuel issue but no. 4.5 turns is the factory mixture setting but every carb/engine is different with personality. 1/4 turn here and there will be necessary. Rebuilding your carb is probably a waste of time considering that if it is your carb, it's more than likely your accel. Pump. Instead call up John at carb exchange in El Monte California. $400 - $130 core deposit = $270 like new carb. Lifetime warrantee. And that's no joke. If your gonna have the truck for a while I would get that and not look back.
 
I would spend a few minutes and rule out the vacuum advance diaphragms at the distributor.
When they do not hold vacuum the motor will lose power. I just replaced mine after 30 years and wow what a difference.

Good luck
 
Toast said:
Where did you get these?
Click to expand...

LC Engineering Part Number: 1081123 has the Distributor Vacuum Advance Unit for $59.95


I bought a whole new distributor at RockAuto WPS / POWER SELECT DST731 $71.79
It was a 15 minute plug and play.
DST731_S__ra_p.jpg
 
Wow thanks for the responses.

Toast said:
I had this exact same issue, it turned out to be my coil/igniter failing to fire under load. It idled great but under load it would stumble and stutter. I swore it was a fuel issue but no. 4.5 turns is the factory mixture setting but every carb/engine is different with personality. 1/4 turn here and there will be necessary. Rebuilding your carb is probably a waste of time considering that if it is your carb, it's more than likely your accel. Pump. Instead call up John at carb exchange in El Monte California. $400 - $130 core deposit = $270 like new carb. Lifetime warrantee. And that's no joke. If your gonna have the truck for a while I would get that and not look back.
Click to expand...

I was thinking of getting this actually. 1981-1987 Toyota Pickup Truck Remanufactured Aisan Carburetor 22R What do you think? I just got off the phone with someone named John, not sure if that was the same guy or not.
 
FrankTorres said:
I would spend a few minutes and rule out the vacuum advance diaphragms at the distributor.
When they do not hold vacuum the motor will lose power. I just replaced mine after 30 years and wow what a difference.

Good luck
Click to expand...

How would I be able to check and make sure the vacuum advance diaphragms are still working?
 
As far as the vacuum advance is concerned, this is a good video to watch:
Not toyota specific, but you should get the idea. That same youtube channel has a more advanced (get it? har har) explanation as well.

I would check both the timing and the vacuum advance before dropping $200+ on a carb or coil that you may not need. Both tools can be bought at harbor freight for $20/each or could be rented from a parts house for free.
 
Great video on timing. I've read some folks suck in with there mouth on the end of a vacuum hose to test. I would maybe use a baby medicine syringe or something like that... :meh:

For a carb go to National Carburetors TOY505 for $159.95
In the past 3 years I've used one and installed three TOY505 for me and my friends here locally. Flawless
 
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