to contribute. mine popped in oct 2021. out of town of course. flat bed to closest dealer for morning opening, they had it done by noon. all good except they didn't get the cooler line clamp on the bottom correct. drive able but bled fluid and with the 200 skid plate as big as it is, not readily noticeable. removing skids to inspect showed issue.. had to finagle that line back to appropriate spot with spring clamp. all good since.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (20 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
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You saved your Cruiser. This could have been another situation where a dealer killed one.
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Fair enough! I kinda knew the answer when I asked the question, I was just frustrated in the moment. I suppose if it happened within the first 15-30k then Toyota would recognize it. But after so many miles I’m sure they’re chalking it up to common wear and tear.
$1,200 later I have a new radiator, coolant flush, t-stat, oil change, tire rotation, engine bay detail, and driveline greased
bloc
SILVER Star
I get it.
AND, you have the new radiator design that shouldn't fail in the same way. Many more miles ahead!
Damn knock on wood
I’m at 108k
No crack yet
I’m at 108k
No crack yet
Post up a close up pic. I actually wasn’t aware mine had started to crack til I cleaned it off and took a pic of it.
DuckNinja93
SILVER Star
Just make sure you have some JB Weld on hand if your hasn't popped yet. Mine 5-6 weeks ago. JB Weld has been working fine (after I properly cured it). I finally got all my parts in for "while I'm in there repair." I just wish I knew about the JB Weld option earlier so I wouldn't have been in such a high panic to source parts, etc.
New owner of a 2011 LX 570 with 108,000 miles. Going through the truck and planning preventive maintenance. My radiator does not have the crack yet but is showing about 1 mm of the tell tale white stress mark at each corner of the riser. I eventually will pull the radiator and change it along with everything on the front of the engine but I am wondering is it worth it preventively JB Weld over the area until I make it to the radiator/water pump project? No leaks from either yet and will probably try to do it at 120,000 miles. Really nothing wrong with the truck at all. Like I said this is all preventive.
If I do JB Weld over the area, do you guys recommend regular JB weld or the Radiatorweld with the fiber patch?
Thanks
Neil
Btw I have owned a 2000 LC, currently own a 1991 80 series, gave my son a 2006 4runner 4wd but technically still own it and now the 2011 LX570. Eventhough this thing seems futuristic to me, it all still seem familiar also. I actually love working on Landcruisers.
If I do JB Weld over the area, do you guys recommend regular JB weld or the Radiatorweld with the fiber patch?
Thanks
Neil
Btw I have owned a 2000 LC, currently own a 1991 80 series, gave my son a 2006 4runner 4wd but technically still own it and now the 2011 LX570. Eventhough this thing seems futuristic to me, it all still seem familiar also. I actually love working on Landcruisers.
Thank you for confirmation on what I saved doing it myself.
I did the radiator, both hoses, transmission service to include dropping and cleaning the pan, replace the filter for about $500. I caught a local Toyota dealer having an online parts sale, so the Radiator, hoses and trans filter/gasket kit were about $450 with tax. I'll say I used about $50 in Amsoil trans fluid...
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Since it was discovered in the dealers service bay during a routine oil change, I figured while it was in there might as well. Definitely painful when I got the invoice but it's a business vehicle anyway so maintenance is tax deductible. I usually send the 200 to the dealer anyway. The 100 takes more than enough of my time to maintain
bloc
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The patch seems to be working great for a number of people, so I don’t think you’d be doing any harm at all. The single issue I can think of is not being able to monitor crack progress, but those that have installed the patch haven’t had a failure yet that I’ve seen, suggesting it prevents further cracking. As I posted though, even if we fix this failure point the plastic is clearly degrading in other ways.
If you are installing a new radiator anyway I say go for it.
Almost two years trouble free on a pretty large crack patched here. No sign of an issue.
The rubber fill gasket at the top of the radiator to the front frame is nearly completely eroded. I should replace that soon.
The rubber fill gasket at the top of the radiator to the front frame is nearly completely eroded. I should replace that soon.
bloc
SILVER Star
The foam one? If so: 16465-50370
Great. Thanks for the responses. I was thinking that it seems that the crack is caused by the expansion and contraction related to the high pressure/high heat stress applied to the crease caused by that flat spot on the rounded top of the radiator. If I could reinforce the area with jb weld it would lessen the expansion flex caused by the pressure when the radiator is hot. Since mine hasn't cracked yet, strengthening it hopefully will either keep it from cracking or tremendously delay it. That way i can have some confidence to go with it until the water pump leaks and I can kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
I am going to try it but I did call my local lexus dealer and they have the radiator in stock and it costs $452.98. Is that about the price everyone is seeing?
Pics as requested of radiator in 2013 LC
Middle
Left
Right
Let me know if you guys see anything. Looks normal to my untrained eye
Looks good. For a 2013, I would expect it to look more worn and brittle than yours. Maybe it has been replaced at some point?
Look at parts.belllexusscottsdale.com and I think you can get it for less than $350 shipped to your door.
3100 McClellan Blvd Anniston, AL
bloc
SILVER Star
@NeilC someoke much earlier in this thread cut a cross section of their tank and found the crack area was molded thinner than the rest of the plastic. That plus the corner concentrating stress into a smaller area..
There is supposed to be a sticker on the flat area though.. are the bolts at the ends of the tank into the plastic mounting brackets 12mm or 13?
Looks good with regard to the crack. It has definitely been replaced.
There is supposed to be a sticker on the flat area though.. are the bolts at the ends of the tank into the plastic mounting brackets 12mm or 13?
Running 18 months on JBWeld plastic epoxy which was rather crudely applied. Did not have leak prior to install but I sanded the plastic and hoped to minimize extension of the stress rider.
Plastic epoxy was rated for well below zero to nearly 400F so good to go.
Plastic epoxy was rated for well below zero to nearly 400F so good to go.
