I did not add any back in, I only had about 3 oz come out. I will be doing a transmission flush as soon I can find the best deal around. It was pretty nasty looking.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement
- Thread starter jclarke450
- Start date
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teejnut
SILVER Star
Mine just gave up. 2013 LX570 original radiator as far as I can tell from service records. 112k miles. Glad it crapped out now vs on a trip somewhere!
Planning on doing the following while I'm in there. Anything I'm missing?
Planning on doing the following while I'm in there. Anything I'm missing?
- Radiator (does new OEM radiator come with a new cap?)
- Upper/lower hose
- Water pump
- Thermostat
- Fan clutch bracket
- Fan clutch
- Idler Pulley
- Tensioner
- Belt
- Flush ATF (it's been on my to do list)
teejnut
SILVER Star
How many gallons of Toyota SLLC did everyone use when replacing the radiator?
bloc
SILVER Star
I got two. And yes the new radiator should come with a cap.
Just read the entire thread start to finish. Doesn’t seem like anyone has posted a 2015 yet. Definitely enough rolling around at high enough miles that I would expect some to have failed. I’m at 100k and starting to collect parts for some of the bigger jobs. I guess it’s still not a bad insurance policy when I do the water pump, but it does make me wonder if they somehow aren’t as bad as the early trucks were.
Does yours have the hairline crack? Post a picture.
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My 2015 LC radiator start to crack around 135k mileage. I did a patch bc I wanted to do the water pump once it started to weep and radiator at the same time. I have almost 170k on the patch, it's holding up
Don't forget the belts. Here's my belt at 140k.
No crack, been monitoring it since I bought it at 50k miles three years ago. At 102k now. But I’ll probably do it sometime this year with the water pump. Just surprised to see now just 1 2015 and I think 1 2016 in the whole thread.
Man this sucks. My 13 is at 105k miles right now.
Should I be worried and prepared for the crack in the next two years?
Should I be worried and prepared for the crack in the next two years?
TLC2013
SILVER Star
My 2013 developed the crack around 85k. I’d keep a close eye on it and prepare to get it replaced in the near future. Being that it is almost a guarantee that you will experience this, it’s better to be prepared in order to avoid the worst case scenario.
To save some money you can start shopping around the various online dealerships to find the best price for OEM parts .
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You can still get ahead of it (depending on how far along it is), by proactively "fixing" the stress riser that leads to this failure. It's a design geometry issue.
Find a radiator patch kit and apply it to the problem corner. This will add a fillet of material that will better distribute cyclic heating and cooling loads so its no longer concentrated on the corner. Potentially permanently sidestepping the issue.
When you guys replace them? Do you just get a OEM from the dealership?
Any luck or reviews with the duralast from Autozone, Murray Heat Shield From Oreileys or Rock Auto with the Denso or FVP brands?
Any luck or reviews with the duralast from Autozone, Murray Heat Shield From Oreileys or Rock Auto with the Denso or FVP brands?
TLC2013
SILVER Star
OEM is the way to go. That is the consensus here. The new design released in 2018 or 2019 should eliminate this issue going forward. Worst case scenario with OEM is that you get around 8-10 years out of it. Going aftermarket is very hit or miss….mainly miss.
On that note, i recently had to put a new radiator in my gx460. Dealer said they were on months long backorder for OEM, so i had to go aftermarket, wasn't too happy about it.
teejnut
SILVER Star
Ordered a new radiator from Longo Toyota Monday, they had to order the part but they just got it in today. 
teejnut
SILVER Star
Anyone know the part number for the short by-pass hose? It's the one that goes from the thermostat housing to the pipe that goes to the oil filter. I damaged the end of it trying to get it off. Debating about re-using it or just finding a generic hose. Looks to be 1/2" ID.
bloc
SILVER Star
Should be 99556-20200
Depending on time to get it I'd try and avoid generic. Unless you match the diameter and wall thickness exactly the stock spring clamps won't fit correctly, so you'll have to use screw clamps which just aren't as reliable long-term.
teejnut
SILVER Star
How did you find that part? Yeah would prefer oem hose...Is that hose just a generic OEM hose cut shorter? The hose is about 2 3/8" long. The pic of 99556-20200 seems lot longer.
