Builds 2001 LX470 build LEGUSY (1 Viewer)

[Odyseuss]

I am still in the process of testing the solar system and making a few changes to get the very most that I want out of it, but so far it is working quite well.

One thing that I had seriously considered doing when I installed the system was to hard wire a wiring loom through the roof. I guess I got lazy, or lost the nerve to drill the hole in the roof and so I just ran the wires through the rear hatch door.

I would be interested in any suggestions or ideas about how I intend to run the wires through the roof, as I intend to keep this wired for a long time and it would help to run wires for additional lighting.

Here is my plan. I have found a location in the roof near the rear hatch that is somewhat easily accessible from inside the rear headliner.

This location has the room I would need to run a waterproof bulkhead fitting. The only object that appears to be close is the rear wind deflector when the hatch is open, but it should still clear completely.

I would then drill a 7/8 hole in the roof with a step drill bit (I have used them to install deflectors and spoilers, and they work well for this application). This would allow the bulkhead to fit snug. I would prime all the fresh edges and install a washer on the bottom of the fitting to reduce the possibility of it getting hit and denting the sheet metal (although I consider this location to be pretty well protected by the roof rack and the deflector). Next, I would silicone the sealing surfaces and install the lower fitting nut to seal and secure the fitting in the roof. Then I would pass a loom of 6 wires, 14 gauge through the fitting. This loom is pretty solid and should contain all the wiring that I would ever need with a very nice tight fit in the bulkhead fitting.

I already built this loom and installed it so that it would be easy to run later. I sealed all of the wiring inside the loom.

This way I should have everything I need and then I can tighten it all up nice and sealed. I should be able to make changes to it later if I need to, but I don't see much need to mess with it as long as it works well. Am I missing something??? Is this a bad Idea, or can you suggest a better way to do it?

 

[bryson]

Looks like a solid setup to me. One thing you may want to consider is a bulkhead fitting that can be unplugged right where it passes through the roof to simplify things should any part of the harness ever need to be modified.

Something like this maybe:

 

[Odyseuss]

Thanks for the idea. That is a nice option. Definitely something to consider. Do you have any more info on it, like a link, where to get it, or what its called?

 

[Cruzer_89]

Outstanding!

 

[bryson]

Thanks for the idea. That is a nice option. Definitely something to consider. Do you have any more info on it, like a link, where to get it, or what its called?

Ha ha... I had seen the idea before somewhere here on 'MUD, but I just Googled "marine wiring bulkhead connector."

 

[Odyseuss]

I thought that connector looked familiar. I probably saw it in one of my searches. lots of possibilities.

I am working on organizing my drawer configuration, so that I can get the most out of that space. I wanted to be able to see inside the drawers easily at night. I installed some short strip lights right above the drawers. The lights are wired to the rear dome so they can come on automatically with it and they will go off with the timer as well. I also added a switch in case I want them off with the hatch open.

 

[Odyseuss]

Next, I needed to get a few more things lined up and straightened out. I installed a Slee front diff drop kit and raised the Spare tire as well as the 7 pin towing harness. The old cross member had a coat of red Utah mud. That stuff sticks.

Then, I adjusted the front ride height and raised it a bit. It is set so that I have~ 2" of down travel from ride height. It still sits high in the rear but that will change eventually when I add more weight back there. I'll deal with it for now. I love how easy it is to adjust the torsion bars. However, I did notice a bit of an issue with one of the adjusters being installed backwards causing the adjustment bolt to contact the frame. It was easy to flip around and reinstall so now the clearance is even. I wanted to get the adjustments dialed in before it goes in for an alignment.

Here's a picture that shows how the adjuster can be installed backwards.

And here is how it should look.

Then I replaced the sway bar bushings and end links on the front sway bar. After double checking all the ride height adjustments, I got the alignment dialed in. It drives straight with the steering centered.

 

[Odyseuss]

Went out to the Great Salt Lake to play around in the snow with my son, so here's a few pictures.

 

[Odyseuss]

The sensitivity of the cut in cut out settings on the T-max controller operated the battery solenoid much more often that I desire.
I made a small change to my dual battery operation that was posted in another thread, but I feel like some of it belongs here too.

I did not like that the T-max controller automatically links both batteries when the vehicle is started. The National Luna controller has a timer that requires a 5 minute run time before connecting the batteries, and this helps ensure that the main battery is charged(and also reduces the load on the alternator) before connecting both batteries. I do prefer the T-max controller monitor to the National Luna design(this is just a personal preference of having the 90sec timer for the status display and not having a separate intelligent solenoid controller).


I decided to add an on- off -on switch to the green lead from the controller that operates the battery link solenoid. This gives me 3 main options.

1- ON-(green to ground) both batteries linked all of the time allows jump starting and charging and avoids any timers to automatically disconnect the batteries.

2- OFF- keeps both batteries disconnected all of the time. (this is the one that I am using most often) In a standard single battery setup the main battery does not need additional charging from sources other than the alternator during normal operation most of the time. this prevents my main battery from being discharged by auxiliary loads. My Solar panel is an adequate charging source to keep my auxiliary battery charged most of the time, depending on the sun and loads. I can always connect both batteries during a long drive, if my auxiliary battery needs charging.

3- ON- (green to green) resumes operation as designed by the T-max controller.


Here is a picture of my switch under the T-max controller. easy to access yet out of the way. My T-Max controller is installed to a hinge with a magnet to hold it shut.

 

[Odyseuss]

One of the things that I need my 100 series to do pretty often is to get me and my snowboard to the resorts. That is where I strap on my Never Summer and continue off road recreation. I have a bit of brand loyalty when it comes to my snowboards, and Never Summer hasn't let me down. Made in Colorado by people that know how to make snowboards, they are some of the most durable boards and they carry one of the best warranties.

They get a beating and they sustain it well.

Even so, I was in the market for a new board after the abuse that my boards have taken. Then I came across a new Legacy for a great deal. Coincidence or not, I'm stoked.

So one of the next things that I needed to figure out was a Snowboard rack.

I want and need to keep this rack clean and low profile. It needs to clear under my carport, and I don't want excessive drag and wind noise. I ended up going with this snowboard roof rack from Raxstars.



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X0ZRR0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I did make a few changes for my use. The rack clamp fit snug and secure on the Front Runner crossbars that I am using. I had no interest in using the strap for the back of the board. It just doesn't look like it will last or fit properly for my application. I was thinking that I could buy 2 of the racks and secure the board at both ends, but I don't think that's necessary, and they will not fit on the rear with my solar panel. So, I decided that a snowboard binding strap would be more appropriate. I attached a binding ratchet strap to some webbing and carabiners and then to some climbing bolt anchors. This setup keeps my board secure for transport and the entire rack is easily removable so that I dont have it on my rack when its not being used. Yes it takes a bit more time to remove the board than it would on most standard snowboard racks, but the entire rack is removed in less time. Its really not that hard to install and it feels pretty solid.

 

[Morty]

Killer build. You do exceptionally good work, especially for a snowboarder.

 

[Mitya]

Awesome car you've made!

 

[Odyseuss]

Thanks.

I took it out a bit to do some ice climbing at Bridal Veil Falls.

Then ran the Rattlesnake Trail with Wasatch Cruisers.

Thanks to Troy for the photo.

Then played around in the desert a bit.

 

[Odyseuss]

I cut and bent a couple plates of 1/8 thick steel to cover and reinforce and help protect the lower rear link mounting brackets. I've seen these brackets take some abuse on various vehicles over the years and I don't expect my truck to be an exception. I used some cardboard templates to determine where to bend my plates. 4" x2.5" seemed to be an appropriate size, and with a couple quick bends in the press brake, they fit really well.

 

[Odyseuss]

While I had the control arms out to weld in the mount skids, I replaced the stock links with Metal Tech Offset Lower Links. My stock links had been rubbed a couple of times but were not damaged yet. However, I expected that it was only a matter of time before I bent the stock links. These Metal tech links are beef and guaranteed to be replaced IF I ever bend one. In addition, they come with new serviceable joints, bushings, and hardware.

This next photo shows how much thread of the Johnny Joint is in the link, and compares the stock link.

I also installed a set of the long OME stone guards to help protect my rear shocks.

 

[yotasavg]

Wow, never seen those stone guards but I like that idea a lot.

 

[Odyseuss]

I installed 2 anchors and a bungee in the rear hatch to hold the ARB fridge lid open while I am adding or removing items. I know this is a small improvement, but it does a lot for convenience. I had a similar setup on my 4runner and I loved it. It was necessary to drill and thread the mounting bolts into the lift gate assembly, because the plastic trim would not support the tension of a bungee holding the fridge lid. There was too much deflection when I tried an adhesive mount and I just wouldn't trust it.

 

[SmoothLC]

Very nice!

Quick question - why did you go w/ the MT links vs. OME?

 

[Odyseuss]

I won them at the Cruise Moab raffle.
I do think that they are a really good product.

 

[Morty]

I like those mount skids on the control arms. I had a friend make me something similar a few years back. Mine are not quite as nice as yours but they have held up well. It certainly is a good idea as those seem to take a bit of abuse.