Builds 2001 LC HZJ78 AK -RESTORATION- For Overland

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After some time off I have recently been able to identify my injection pump that will not need to be upgraded since it's the high Altitude one :)

On the other hand, I was cleaning the engine bay, The plug for the alternator is damaged it's okay because I will be putting the new one in soon

Would anyone know what are the wires are?
  1. Ignition 12 volt. (White one?)
  2. Ground (Black & Yellow)?
  3. YELLOW
Thanks
View attachment 2904105

Still uncertain about this one anyone would have a diagram?
 
This has been the trouble for me as well, is getting an up to date FSM for the newer 70 series. Australia has an aftermarket one that I picked up, but it is currently packed as I am moving in 2 weeks. However, from older manuals, the wiring may be different colors, but the overall engineering is the same, so this is what I would gather looking at the 1996 FSM:

This is based on the numbers on the plug in your picture:
1. (Yellow) to your cluster gauge charge indicator/warning light
2. (Black-Yellow) to your ignition
3. (White) through a fusible link to your battery
 
This has been the trouble for me as well, is getting an up to date FSM for the newer 70 series. Australia has an aftermarket one that I picked up, but it is currently packed as I am moving in 2 weeks. However, from older manuals, the wiring may be different colors, but the overall engineering is the same, so this is what I would gather looking at the 1996 FSM:

This is based on the numbers on the plug in your picture:
1. (Yellow) to your cluster gauge charge indicator/warning light
2. (Black-Yellow) to your ignition
3. (White) through a fusible link to your battery

Thank @Rigster

The new plug from the alternator harness has only two wires, the ground and the blue/green wire is the field not sure what that means.

Everything needs to go through the Max Charge regulator since this Alternator is rated 390AMP

(Black-Yellow) to your ignition ---) to 12V Ignition
(White) through a fusible link to your battery ----) to Baterry post

(Yellow) to your cluster gauge charge indicator/warning light this one I am confused about where to put it




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Gosh mt72, lol... You are installing a pretty huge alternator in there! Regulator indeed if you do not want to bake your batteries with 390amps!

I see you are going with a Balmar solution, and I was not able to find a LAP 0023 regulator or any information on it... however, I would take a look at the external regulator documentation. Hook up the alternator to the regulator as per the documentation you have from Balmar. You've gone away from OEM at this point and need to rely on the docs from Balmar. Read up on that, there should be a somewhere on the regulator where you can connect your gauge in the cruiser to the regulator that provides an "indicator" connection on it somewhere. I hope it is not just an "on/off" lamp indicator, but a voltage output for a gauge reading. There may also be a separate lamp indicator as well.

I would also recommend tracing through the wires to verify my supposition on where the wires from the plug go since I was looking at a FSM that had differing colored wires in the diagram. At the very least... trace out the smaller 2 wires, as one will go to ignition, and the other to the gauge. The heavier gauge wire will be the battery sense connection.

I wish thee good fortune in your sojourn for success!! :cheers:
 
Gosh mt72, lol... You are installing a pretty huge alternator in there! Regulator indeed if you do not want to bake your batteries with 390amps!

I see you are going with a Balmar solution, and I was not able to find a LAP 0023 regulator or any information on it... however, I would take a look at the external regulator documentation. Hook up the alternator to the regulator as per the documentation you have from Balmar. You've gone away from OEM at this point and need to rely on the docs from Balmar. Read up on that, there should be a somewhere on the regulator where you can connect your gauge in the cruiser to the regulator that provides an "indicator" connection on it somewhere. I hope it is not just an "on/off" lamp indicator, but a voltage output for a gauge reading. There may also be a separate lamp indicator as well.

I would also recommend tracing through the wires to verify my supposition on where the wires from the plug go since I was looking at a FSM that had differing colored wires in the diagram. At the very least... trace out the smaller 2 wires, as one will go to ignition, and the other to the gauge. The heavier gauge wire will be the battery sense connection.

I wish thee good fortune in your sojourn for success!! :cheers:


Yes, It's a beefy one! I did my homework reporting the Yellow wire should go on the slut #17 on the regulator if anything default the light will come up.
(Black-Yellow) to your ignition ---) to 12V Ignition
(Yellow) wire should go on the slut #17 on the Regulator (CLUSTER LIGHT)

I need to test the white wire and make sense of this one too.

I am waiting for a 3 bank Victron battery Isolator the sure power I have is way to big to fit the cruiser engine bay they are rates 200 AMP too


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I see now from your last pic that it is the Balmar MC-614. I am not sure if you have a tach on your HZJ78, but if you do you will need to hook up the wire for that on slot 13 for your tach to function correctly.

You are definitely not sparing any expense on this build! That is a pretty full-featured external regulator you are putting in. Follow-ups on your experiences with all the aftermarket adds would be great to see down the road so others looking at similar options will be able to gain from your experiences (good OR bad) to help them in making informed choices before committing their hard earned savings.

Thanks for sharing bud, and will continue to watch your build thread with interest! :cheers:
 
I see now from your last pic that it is the Balmar MC-614. I am not sure if you have a tach on your HZJ78, but if you do you will need to hook up the wire for that on slot 13 for your tach to function correctly.

You are definitely not sparing any expense on this build! That is a pretty full-featured external regulator you are putting in. Follow-ups on your experiences with all the aftermarket adds would be great to see down the road so others looking at similar options will be able to gain from your experiences (good OR bad) to help them in making informed choices before committing their hard earned savings.

Thanks for sharing bud, and will continue to watch your build thread with interest! :cheers:

I am uncertain about the tach on the HZJ78 was this the tachometer above the dash? If yes I don't have this ... I am not counting for this build because it's like my mom said your building a cottage on wheels to travel the world :)

My Goal for spring 2022 is to finish the paint job, install the pop roof. rock slider, install a winch, Drill a breather in the front diff that is missing from the manufacturer...install my seats, etc... then get it started truck has not moved since last year. I am not gonna do the interior (cabinet this summer). I am still waiting for the new Wire floor main harness and wire floor #2. Then it will be test driving @Rigster if everything goes to plan I will come up NW territory passing through BC we should hook up it would be very nice + you can show me your turbo set up :)
 
I am uncertain about the tach on the HZJ78 was this the tachometer above the dash? If yes I don't have this ... I am not counting for this build because it's like my mom said your building a cottage on wheels to travel the world :)

My Goal for spring 2022 is to finish the paint job, install the pop roof. rock slider, install a winch, Drill a breather in the front diff that is missing from the manufacturer...install my seats, etc... then get it started truck has not moved since last year. I am not gonna do the interior (cabinet this summer). I am still waiting for the new Wire floor main harness and wire floor #2. Then it will be test driving @Rigster if everything goes to plan I will come up NW territory passing through BC we should hook up it would be very nice + you can show me your turbo set up :)
Absolutely, let me know in advance when you are coming through and we will definitely sit and talk Land Cruisers! 👍
 
Spent some time prepping the windshield as my brother said that some apparent rust (black spots) were present. Sandblast is a mess but necessary finished the corners of the door and we shaved the bump rear plate on the door. Did some tests on the handles too...

We should. be able to prime the first coat this weekend if everything goes to plan... In the meantime, I am studying the Garrett GTX2863R w/ .64 A/R scenario as I found on the forum a very nice adaptor to the 1HZ manifold made by @gifu.

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After talking with @gifu about turbo and having some spare time this week I took off the manifold on the 1HZ as you can see this guy have been there for 20 YEARS

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After countless hours in the cold sandblasting in the cold suck... took me about one bag good lord

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Basically, the manifold was full of carbon inside so the best solution is to let it soak in muriatic acid for a few days and brush the inner core once in a while and change your water.

I then painted it with VSS heat paint. I wanted to restore it because the not real proven gain with aftermarket manifold so saving for my set up :)

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As part of my restoration, the dash was in pretty bad shape with holes, I did order a new panel & I mounted the 9100 Switch pro on it (I know it's upside down) but it's not fixed yet pretty happy with this look almost OEM

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After talking with @gifu about turbo and having some spare time this week I took off the manifold on the 1HZ as you can see this guy have been there for 20 YEARS

Hello,

There is a special feeling when you have to service/repair a part and you notice that it has been there since the truck left the factory. Nothing like an unmolested component to work on.





Juan
 
Hello,

There is a special feeling when you have to service/repair a part and you notice that it has been there since the truck left the factory. Nothing like an unmolested component to work on.





Juan

Hi @JuanJ absolutely this made me feel confident the engine was never really touch like a virgin :P
 
Yesterday I finished up the bracket holding the EVO Warn in place directly on the frame.

I will now work on the bumper to reinforce the brackets + clearance

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This is pretty much how we are gonna fit the bumper now. I will finish it up next week. In the picture you can't see the brackets that bolt up to the frame this will be a double layer with a braise in angle to help reduce vibration when cruising.

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Finally received the hand brake cover from Nardi to fit the steering can't wait to have everything back in place

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Did some improvement this weekend! but not much

Sub tank came on the primer so decided to shoot it with some gravel guard to protect her while Overlanding since I am waiting for the wire#2. I figure it was a good investment of my time this weekend


Before
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AFTER
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