2000 Toyota Land Cruiser: Please Help with My Suspension Question Google Has Failed to Answer

[Hindle]

Hey!

I'm looking to replace my OEM Torsion Bars, Rear Springs, and all four Shocks.

My OEM torsion bars are so worn out that I'm sitting at stock height with them crank all the way down (up), and I don't want more than 1.5"-2" of lift in the front, and potentially 1"-1.5" in the rear.

I was thinking I could just replace my existing torsion bars with a budget-friendly aftermarket solution and use those to level the truck after replacing the shocks as well.

Overall, I wouldn't mind keeping the rear at stock height and having the truck level out using Torsion Bars, but I'm confused what parts I want/need.

I will not be adding additional weight to the front or rear of the truck that's noticeable (more than 60-80lbs)

I do 90% pavement driving and my model does not have air bags

Thanks!

 

[CBdeJ]

Partsouq.com. Type in your vin. It will spit out the parts diagrams you need. From there it's a simple matter of seeing if the parts are cheaper shipped from Dubai or from an online dealer in the US. (hint: Dubai is frequently cheaper and quicker than most online Toyota dealers in the USA).

 

[Hindle]

Partsouq.com. Type in your vin. It will spit out the parts diagrams you need. From there it's a simple matter of seeing if the parts are cheaper shipped from Dubai or from an online dealer in the US. (hint: Dubai is frequently cheaper and quicker than most online Toyota dealers in the USA).

Thank you! That helps for sure to keep as a reference!

Any tips from your experience?

 

[GTV]

Reindex your stock torsion bars, it’s free.

 

[Patassa]

Reindex your stock torsion bars, it’s free.

Yeah if he's not adding extra weight, try this first.

 

[Hindle]

Yeah if he's not adding extra weight, try this first.

Thank you!

Reindex your stock torsion bars, it’s free.

Thank you!

 

[jLB]

I don't want more than 1.5"-2" of lift in the front, and potentially 1"-1.5" in the rear.

That’s good, because that’s approaching the ragged edge of reason for the front IFS of the 100 series.

I was thinking I could just replace my existing torsion bars with a budget-friendly aftermarket solution and use those to level the truck after replacing the shocks as well.

Budget friendly, but over sprung. The more budget friendly/reasonable solution would be to reindex the OE torsion bars, and get an alignment.

I wouldn't mind keeping the rear at stock height and having the truck level out using Torsion Bars, but I'm confused what parts I want/need.

You’ll probably get better results keeping a little rake, and keeping the front lift conservative.

I will not be adding additional weight to the front or rear of the truck that's noticeable (more than 60-80lbs)

Then aftermarket torsion bars are probably a bad idea, that will be a painful learning experience.

I do 90% pavement driving and my model does not have air bags

I assume that you mean AHC.

 

[Hindle]

That’s good, because that’s approaching the ragged edge of reason for the front IFS of the 100 series.

Budget friendly, but over sprung. The more budget friendly/reasonable solution would be to reindex the OE torsion bars, and get an alignment.

You’ll probably get better results keeping a little rake, and keeping the front lift conservative.



Then aftermarket torsion bars are probably a bad idea, that will be a painful learning experience.




I assume that you mean AHC.

Hey thanks for all the replies!

If I can get a set of Ironman torsion bars for $100 (slightly used) should I buy them or still do the re index? See photos

 

[Patassa]

Hey thanks for all the replies!

If I can get a set of Ironman torsion bars for $100 (slightly used) should I buy them or still do the re index? See photos

View attachment 3515737

View attachment 3515738

The iron mans, at least the ones I bought, are heavier duty, made for carrying increased loads. The bars are much thicker than the stock ones and result in a stiffer ride. Stock ones would be more compliant and ride better if you arnt adding weight.

 

[Hindle]

The iron mans, at least the ones I bought, are heavier duty, made for carrying increased loads. The bars are much thicker than the stock ones and result in a stiffer ride. Stock ones would be more compliant and ride better if you arnt adding weight.

I may end up adding stuff and if I didn’t have to re Index i think id stay stock but any reason not to get these?

 

[jLB]

Hey thanks for all the replies!

If I can get a set of Ironman torsion bars for $100 (slightly used) should I buy them or still do the re index? See photos

View attachment 3515737

View attachment 3515738

If I remember correctly, the Ironman torsion bars are about the thickest that you can get, at 32mm. I would not put any of the 32mm torsion bars on a mostly stock 100 series. My first choice would be to re-index the OE (non-AHC) torsion bars, with a distant second being the OME aftermarket torsion bars.

 

[Hindle]

If I remember correctly, the Ironman torsion bars are about the thickest that you can get, at 32mm. I would not put any of the 32mm torsion bars on a mostly stock 100 series. My first choice would be to re-index the OE (non-AHC) torsion bars, with a distant second being the OME aftermarket torsion bars.

Thanks for the quick response! I’m coming from IFS from the 7+ vehicles I’ve owned and when I hear and read about “re-indexing”, my first and last thoughts are “bandaid fix”.

I just don’t want to take any short cuts and if I can get these aftermarket bars as cheap as they are, are there any major reasons not to get them? I may end up added later on, but not in the next 30 days, no.

 

[jLB]

Thanks for the quick response! I’m coming from IFS from the 7+ vehicles I’ve owned and when I hear and read about “re-indexing”, my first and last thoughts are “bandaid fix”.

I just don’t want to take any short cuts and if I can get these aftermarket bars as cheap as they are, are there any major reasons not to get them? I may end up added later on, but not in the next 30 days, no.

I have 3 100 series in the driveway, that are on the “lighter side”. One factory front bumper. One factory front bumper, hidden winch mount, and 10k winch. One ARB front bumper, and 10k winch. I have two sets of 32mm torsion bars sitting on a shelf, that I can’t find any reason to (re-)install, regardless of adding aftermarket weight. The OE bumper, no winch, runs OE. The two others run OME, and I’d probably move them to OE, if I could find them at a reasonable price.

Preloading the torsion bars for “lift” reduces droop (or down travel). Increasing spring rate reduces uptravel. Both affect ride quality.

(You’re not missing anything but poor ride quality)

 

[Bisho]

Reindex. It’s less work and it’s free. You’ll gain nothing worthwhile with those.

 

[OwnerCS]

After I added a new bumper and winch, I just cranked up the stock bars and got my 1.75" lift. I have a set of OME (Old Man EMU) bars on my LX that I thought about moving. Nah. I'll just reindex OEM bars. Nothing more painful than being oversprung. You can reindex for free.

 

[Hindle]

I have 3 100 series in the driveway, that are on the “lighter side”. One factory front bumper. One factory front bumper, hidden winch mount, and 10k winch. One ARB front bumper, and 10k winch. I have two sets of 32mm torsion bars sitting on a shelf, that I can’t find any reason to (re-)install, regardless of adding aftermarket weight. The OE bumper, no winch, runs OE. The two others run OME, and I’d probably move them to OE, if I could find them at a reasonable price.

Preloading the torsion bars for “lift” reduces droop (or down travel). Increasing spring rate reduces uptravel. Both affect ride quality.

(You’re not missing anything but poor ride quality)

What’s your definition of poor ride quality?
Thanks for info!!
I do want a stiff ride

 

[Hindle]

After I added a new bumper and winch, I just cranked up the stock bars and got my 1.75" lift. I have a set of OME (Old Man EMU) bars on my LX that I thought about moving. Nah. I'll just reindex OEM bars. Nothing more painful than being oversprung. You can reindex for free.

Oversprung?

 

[jLB]

What’s your definition of poor ride quality?
Thanks for info!!
I do want a stiff ride

Little to no down travel due to “lift”, and little to no up travel due to spring rate. Whole body jumps & drops with holes/bumps, instead of wheel/suspension movement.

 

[Hindle]

Little to no down travel due to “lift”, and little to no up travel due to spring rate. Whole body jumps & drops with holes/bumps, instead of wheel/suspension movement.

I hear ya — but what if I hate the way it rides currently — re index won’t change that

Bigger bars will along with stiffer springs?

 

[jLB]

I hear ya — but what if I hate the way it rides currently — re index won’t change that

Bigger bars will along with stiffer springs?

In my experience:

Stiffer springs are for added weight.
(Anti-)swaybars are for “body lean”.
Shocks control ride.

If you’re using stiffer springs to adjust ride, or correct excessive body lean, then you’re probably going to be disappointed with the end result.